I took a pair of vise grips to the plate on the lever and bent it toward the switch. Makes good contact now. There is a screw on the switch which looks like it to can be adjusted. However the seat belt was in the way of the screwdriver.
L3901 and L3301
- Thread starter KennedyFarmer
- Start date
Hey X96....what is a Landpride "Flat Blade"?. Curious you may have a non lift blade on the mower ????
Thanks, Pete
Thanks, Pete
cliffboyer
Active member
Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Loving my L3301. 21 hours now, but yet to regen.
Two minor issues so far. First was small coolant leak when starting after been stitting for a week or two. Tweeked lower radiator hose were it enters the block a 1/4 turn. Problem solved.
Second was last week. Popped hood before starting to give cursory inspection. When closing it would not latch. Found the pivot pin had worked out. Will replace with a bolt and lock nut when/if it happens agaim.
[URL=http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/homeliner/media/L3301/20180512_121318_HDR_zpszfvteks0.jpg.html]
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Two minor issues so far. First was small coolant leak when starting after been stitting for a week or two. Tweeked lower radiator hose were it enters the block a 1/4 turn. Problem solved.
Second was last week. Popped hood before starting to give cursory inspection. When closing it would not latch. Found the pivot pin had worked out. Will replace with a bolt and lock nut when/if it happens agaim.
[URL=http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/homeliner/media/L3301/20180512_121318_HDR_zpszfvteks0.jpg.html]
[/URL]Put on discs plowed food plot swapped to rake ,raked food plot,planted food plot,took off rake,rear of tractor looked different? couldn't put my finger on it. Went inside logged hours in to log book,178.8 hrs. Looked in Operators Manual ,don't know how long it has been gone but my drawbar is missing. Don't know where or when,could be in 3 other places that I do food plots. Hope I don't find it with the bushhog.
Interesting. I had a similar experience last week. Was mowing an 8 acre section of my property when I noticed a large gray object laying in the next pass of grass (not yet mowed pass). Got off and found a drawbar. I thought the previous property owner must have lost his when mowing. Later, noticed my drawbar was missing. Would hate to hit that thing with the mower! I have no clue how it ended up in a spot that I hadn't yet driven over.
Old thread, but I wanted to bump it up.
I've got 178 (or so) on my L3901. Handles mowing, and lots of driveway maintenance here (I've spread approximately 180 tons of gravel in almost 3 years).
First regen, as I recall, was around 55 hrs. I've only had 4 regens since buying it in July of '16. Only thing my salesman and I can figure, is that I run it WOT (wide open throttle), all the time except for mowing.
I've got 12 acres of mostly open flat country in west centeral Missouri.
Ordered the bh77 a couple of weeks ago, and should have my orange girl back in a few more days with rear remotes, 3rd function and the new backhoe.
Never had any problems with her in nearly 3 years or (sometimes) hard use, digging my pond, filling low spots in the yard, moving large piles of gravel or mowing so far.
(playing around in the snow on my 1800' long driveway. First time in 2 1/2 at the time
.)
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I've got 178 (or so) on my L3901. Handles mowing, and lots of driveway maintenance here (I've spread approximately 180 tons of gravel in almost 3 years).
First regen, as I recall, was around 55 hrs. I've only had 4 regens since buying it in July of '16. Only thing my salesman and I can figure, is that I run it WOT (wide open throttle), all the time except for mowing.
I've got 12 acres of mostly open flat country in west centeral Missouri.
Ordered the bh77 a couple of weeks ago, and should have my orange girl back in a few more days with rear remotes, 3rd function and the new backhoe.
Never had any problems with her in nearly 3 years or (sometimes) hard use, digging my pond, filling low spots in the yard, moving large piles of gravel or mowing so far.
(playing around in the snow on my 1800' long driveway. First time in 2 1/2 at the time
.)
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
This was never answered. I recently bought a new L2501 after also trying out an L3901. As an aside, I also own a 2018 MX4800 which is quite a bit larger so I'm well aware of the limitations of various sized tractors.
Some people say an L3901 is a 'bigger tractor' than a 2501. Well, the tractors themselves are identical in terms of size. They use the same loaders and same transmissions, same steering and axles. However, there are differences.
The 3301 / 3901 have a small advantage in terms of maximum weight the loader can lift, despite being the same loader. I believe this is the result of the 33/3901 having a slightly higher flow hydraulic pump. This all may boil down to the engines. The 2501 is rated at 25HP. The other two tractors are higher. It is interesting to note the 2501 and 3301 have extremely similarly sized engines; all of these in the series are 3-cylinder engines. The 2501 makes it's rated power at 2200RPM vs 2600RPM for the 3901. Torque is very similar between the 3301 and 2501. Obviously, the 2501 does not have a DPF nor does it have electronic, common rail fuel injection. You will see the occasional puff of black smoke and smell the traditional diesel smell with the 2501. The 2501 does have direct injection however, as opposed to indirect injection still found in the B-series or BX tractors.
The 25/33/3901 have similar instrument panels but the 33/3901 panels have a digital hour meter with the ability to display error messages while the 2501 has an analog hour meter. The 33/3901 also have better backlighting of the instruments.
Tire options and sizes are the same for all three L series machines.
The throttle control is nicer on the 33/3901, being that is is electronic vs the stiff, tall mechanical lever found on the 2501.
The 33/3901 carry 1.1 additional gallons of fuel compared to the 2501.
The 33/3901 have raised silver lettering on the hood sides denoting their model number. The 2501 has a silver sticker that is not raised.
In the end, all three are nice machines. The higher horsepower models offer an advantage to performing PTO work and potentially open the use of larger implements. The 2501 has an advantage of a lower priced but same sized machine, and one that has a more simplistic engine with very little to go wrong.
We've (dealer) Sold probably 200 L3301 and probably 150 L3901's. Of those, 2 have been in for DPF cleanings due to hired hands ignoring the lights and beepers and derating of the horsepower. I don't know how; but they did. Rest are all hood replacements and PM. Oh and two wire harnesses and one flywheel (that one was a doozie!)
Finally got one that failed. Of course at first, we know nothing of it's history. Hood up diagmaster and find 6 codes all pertaining to the fuel system, high rail pressure and low rail pressure among other things. Tractor won't start (turns over fine, just won't kick off) so we're suspecting a delivery issue. Checked tank and fuel quality, looks good. Checked electric pump output-good. Removed line from supply pump and WATER comes out, pure water. Weellllll....I think we have a problem. I had the service manager call the customer & explain what we found, and in the meantime I got in touch with folks who know these things better than I. It was explained to me that the old style mechanical injection is somewhat tolerant of water but INtolerant of air. Well common rail system is opposite. They're a little more tolerant of air, INtolerant of water. Turns out that the suction control valve is STUCK open, thus it won't build any pressure to start the engine. Pressure should be really high on these (a LOT higher than mechanical injection, up to 10x higher). Customer calls back & says that they got a bad batch of diesel. More like they got a bad batch of water from the diesel station and the water tank was topped off with a little diesel. Said they removed all the "fuel" from tank and replaced the filter with one they sourced from NAPA.
That pump is about $3000 or so and since the bore of the SCV was likely damaged, it's the best and only option. That $3500 is not counting labor.
replacing it is not fun, but not impossible. Remove hood, dash, meter panel, fuel tank, fuel tank support, sub tank, bracketry, hoses, lines, throttle valve assembly, fuel rail, EGR valve, intake manifold, then lift the pump out of the block. Took me about 6 hours, I think I can do it in half that now that I've done one. Basically like a newer diesel pickup. If you have to work on it, you simply start removing stuff until you get to the part that needs attention-and there's a lot to remove to gain access to a supply pump on an L01.
Kubota does not endorse any other filter other than their own and if it came down to doing a scan on the fuel, if they find dirt particles in the pump/lines post-filter and find that an aftermarket filter is installed, they can (and will) deny the repair. They haven't done this yet, but the dealers have been warned that it will start happening. They're already doing oil and coolant analyses. It's not that they're trying to find ways to not pay up, it's that they're trying to find out why things fail-and the analyses point them in a better direction, which helps them build better equipment. Likewise, as a dealer tech, we're the same way but we have to answer to Kubota just the same, ultimately they make the decisions.
Finally got one that failed. Of course at first, we know nothing of it's history. Hood up diagmaster and find 6 codes all pertaining to the fuel system, high rail pressure and low rail pressure among other things. Tractor won't start (turns over fine, just won't kick off) so we're suspecting a delivery issue. Checked tank and fuel quality, looks good. Checked electric pump output-good. Removed line from supply pump and WATER comes out, pure water. Weellllll....I think we have a problem. I had the service manager call the customer & explain what we found, and in the meantime I got in touch with folks who know these things better than I. It was explained to me that the old style mechanical injection is somewhat tolerant of water but INtolerant of air. Well common rail system is opposite. They're a little more tolerant of air, INtolerant of water. Turns out that the suction control valve is STUCK open, thus it won't build any pressure to start the engine. Pressure should be really high on these (a LOT higher than mechanical injection, up to 10x higher). Customer calls back & says that they got a bad batch of diesel. More like they got a bad batch of water from the diesel station and the water tank was topped off with a little diesel. Said they removed all the "fuel" from tank and replaced the filter with one they sourced from NAPA.
That pump is about $3000 or so and since the bore of the SCV was likely damaged, it's the best and only option. That $3500 is not counting labor.
replacing it is not fun, but not impossible. Remove hood, dash, meter panel, fuel tank, fuel tank support, sub tank, bracketry, hoses, lines, throttle valve assembly, fuel rail, EGR valve, intake manifold, then lift the pump out of the block. Took me about 6 hours, I think I can do it in half that now that I've done one. Basically like a newer diesel pickup. If you have to work on it, you simply start removing stuff until you get to the part that needs attention-and there's a lot to remove to gain access to a supply pump on an L01.
Kubota does not endorse any other filter other than their own and if it came down to doing a scan on the fuel, if they find dirt particles in the pump/lines post-filter and find that an aftermarket filter is installed, they can (and will) deny the repair. They haven't done this yet, but the dealers have been warned that it will start happening. They're already doing oil and coolant analyses. It's not that they're trying to find ways to not pay up, it's that they're trying to find out why things fail-and the analyses point them in a better direction, which helps them build better equipment. Likewise, as a dealer tech, we're the same way but we have to answer to Kubota just the same, ultimately they make the decisions.
Lugbolt - very interesting writeup. Maybe you can answer this question - does my MX4800 have cooled EGR? It obviously has a DPF, and it looks to me like there is possibly an EGR cooler attached to the exhaust manifold? If it does have a cooler, is that what one of the "auxiliary' radiators is for? Mine has the primary radiator, plus two aluminum coolers ahead of it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Lugbolt's post pretty much points out it's reducilously silly (and expensive) to use anything but Kubota filters. Just a heads up for anyone wanting to possibly save on buying aftermarket filters.
Dont know what you are looking at on EGR lines, but one of the "extra" radators is a fuel cooler. Needed on high pressure common rail systems.
That would make sense, although that fuel cooler is larger than the one on my diesel pickup.
Richc
New member
Equipment
L3301 hst 2015, fel la 525, bh77, 42in forks, 66in box blade, post hole digger,
830 hours on my 3301 no problem with regen, happens 20 -30 hrs all depends on your operating rpms, higher rpms less it regens.