L3901 and L3301

[BotaDriver]

Yes, for hydraulically operated equipment, hydraulic top links etc. As far as the splitter, do yourself a favor and get a stand alone splitter, not one that goes on the tractor. When I have my splitter running my tractor bucket is normally there to throw the splits into to take to the wood pile... cant do that if the splitter is hooked to the tractor..YMMV..

Indeed - most splitters have dual/stage/pressure pumps that will outpace just about any tractor hydraulics. Putting the hours on a 'cheap' gasoline engine is much preferred over putting the hours on a diesel engine that costs many more times that of a stand alone splitter. The standalone is cheaper in the long run, and faster.

I'd take a look at splitters that don't use hydraulics at all.

There are similar units out there like this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlxMSkOGelA

 

[A.O.]

Indeed - most splitters have dual/stage/pressure pumps that will outpace just about any tractor hydraulics. Putting the hours on a 'cheap' gasoline engine is much preferred over putting the hours on a diesel engine that costs many more times that of a stand alone splitter. The standalone is cheaper in the long run, and faster.

I'd take a look at splitters that don't use hydraulics at all.

There are similar units out there like this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlxMSkOGelA

The DR unit looks good, however its horizontal only... every single log you split HAS to be hoisted up and on the beam. With my vertical beam splitter and some of the monster logs I get occasionally, all I have to do is scooch them over and set them on the foot of the splitter and go. I know I've split lots of logs that I dont have the strength to pick up and put on a horizontal splitter.

 

[KennedyFarmer]

Shift to this thread;
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20586

I would almost guarantee they will be similar. Spools will go under the slots for the handles. QA's will go behind them, there should be holes in the sheet metal where the hangar mounts.

thanks, I looked at that one before, unfortantly it is not an L3301/3901. I haven't been able to find where they would mount on the L3901. I am not so much worried about the rears as I am where are they placed near the operator seat?

 

[zippyslug31]

Thanks for all RE: wood splitters. Hadn't considered several of the points you guys have mentioned... good reason for me to look for a dedicated stand alone unit. Actually, the cost for a stand alone is on par or cheaper than the tractor mounted units.

 

[KennedyFarmer]

First re-gen today at 18.1 hours. Totally caught me by suprise. I bumped the rpms up to 2800+a little more and it was happy. Took about 15mins to complete. I normally run the tractor at 1500 to PTO range at 2500. Don't like running it up too high because the loader starts to get wild and crazy by the slightest touch fast!

 

[KennedyFarmer]

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20715

anyone do their 50hr service and have any advice? I am confused on what really gets changed since the manual isn't very clear and only lists a few items.

 

[speedymph1000]

First regen last weekend at 18.2 hours. I was moving dirt to My neighbors house that I had dig off a bank in My yard, I didn't even know it had started until I started smelling it. I had the RPMs at 2200-2300 and it started with out having to up them any. It only took about 18mins and it was over, the tractor functioned just as always the whole time, My only complaint is it got hot as hell in the seat I guess because I was moving forward and the exhaust was coming back on me. Still loving the new L3901!

 

[zippyslug31]

After around 75 hrs on mine, I've gone through a few regen cycles now. What I'm finding by the whole system is that it's so automated that any fear talk about tier 4 or regen systems is a whole lot about nothing.

I think the folks who would have you believe that the regen system is a massive inconvenience, either are trying to override the system by pressing the regen button or really have no experience with these machines.

I'm loving my 3901, too!
My .02

 

[retyred57]

Have gone through 2 regen cycles, first at 28 hr and second at 41.4 hr. The only difference I noticed was some added heat and smell from the exhaust. On the 2nd regen the RPM warning light continued to flash even though the tach was reading over 2000 RPM. It did go out after lowering and raising the throttle but then did the same thing again later.
Really love the HST although I notice more heat and now wear hearing protection because of the high pitched whine. My previous tractor was a 40 yr old Russian with gear drive and no power steering. It was my first tractor and it was a beast to drive. What a difference, love the Kubota!

 

[KennedyFarmer]

another DPF re-gen today at 32.7 hours, I noticed it always seems to regen when I fill the tank. i filled it about a week ago. I didn't have to touch the RPMS i was running it to move wood chips around and i noticed the light was on, it flashed for a second but when i went to increase the the RPM's it went solid. Smell like varnish coming from the exhaust.

 

[Shadow]

I think the folks who would have you believe that the regen system is a massive inconvenience, either are trying to override the system by pressing the regen button or really have no experience with these machines.

Or they work with them every day and see some of the horror stories.....

 

[KennedyFarmer]

Or they work with them every day and see some of the horror stories.....

There are a lot of tractors out there with DPF as well as construction equipment. I am sure there is issues but i haven't heard a lot about it. when i search on the internet i get a lot of links for people trying to by-pass the DPF system which makes me wonder is this the real issue with DPF systems?

 

[Shadow]

Just like on the pickup trucks, you have to have a "tune" in order to run a DEF or DPF delete kit. Those haven't come out on tractors yet, however, I wouldn't be surprised it someone can figure something out.

 

[zippyslug31]

Or they work with them every day and see some of the horror stories.....

Are you one of them? I'd love to hear from someone with actual experience as to why the tier 4 systems are inherently flawed/inferior/crap.

Anyone that I've heard from or talked to that actually are running these systems don't seem to share the opinion that it's something specifically to avoid.

 

[mdhughes]

zippyslug31, I have 80 hours on my L3901DT and have had no problems with the regen process, even in temperatures in the teens.

I also have a 2010 VW Jetta with 190,xxx miles on it and it has a DPF and goes through regen without me even knowing that it is happening.

 

[yamatitan]

Mine went through regen for the first time last week at 38 hrs. Took about 10 mins kept mowing as normal like others if it wasnt for the smell and light I would have never known.

 

[KennedyFarmer]

i have gone through 3 regen's in less than fifty hours. It seems like the regen has always happen when i put a fresh tank of fuel in the tank. Just did my 50 hour service everything went well. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=161159&postcount=50

 

[KennedyFarmer]

Had another regen just before the 60 hour mark was colder in the 30s everything was fine.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[melvinhatcher]

I have a L3301HST, my question to the group is, what throttle setting do you guys set your throttle when starting your engines?
I always set my throttle to the minimal setting hot or cold at start up, and leave until the engine runs about 60 seconds, then elevate the rpm to 1500 rpm, and wait until the heat gauge starts to move. Although, I do not put the engine to work until it is in at least at 1/4 into the heat range gauge.

 

[Lennyzx11]

I have a L3301HST, my question to the group is, what throttle setting do you guys set your throttle when starting your engines?

I always set my throttle to the minimal setting hot or cold at start up, and leave until the engine runs about 60 seconds, then elevate the rpm to 1500 rpm, and wait until the heat gauge starts to move. Although, I do not put the engine to work until it is in at least at 1/4 into the heat range gauge.

I do about the same but I don't wait on the temp gauge. I start creeping forward on my way to whatever I'm going to do & "thinking about it". Then bump up to usually about 2000 while working the FEL or box blade. Right on the PTO 540 mark for the brush hog.