Hydraulic fittings won't lock into new valve

[huntersprings]

I just had rear remote valves installed by Kubota and bought a new cutter that has one hydraulic line to raise and lower the cutter. I tried every way I knew to get the male fitting to stay in the valve but it kept popping back out. It seemed locked but I could give it a sharp rear pull and it would pop out of the valve. Stupidly on my part and because I was excited to use my new cutter, I decided to mow without adjusting the height. On the second round I heard a bang and realized the hydraulic line had popped out and fell under the mower. Chopped about a third of the 14' line into pieces.

Went to Kubota today and they gave me two different type fittings other than the round poppet that came with the cutter. I put all of them on the short hose remaining for grip and couldn't get any of them to stay in when I pulled backwards. There is no pressure on the valves and I have pushed them in every way imaginable. Any recommendations?

 

[85Hokie]

I just had rear remote valves installed by Kubota and bought a new cutter that has one hydraulic line to raise and lower the cutter. I tried every way I knew to get the male fitting to stay in the valve but it kept popping back out. It seemed locked but I could give it a sharp rear pull and it would pop out of the valve. Stupidly on my part and because I was excited to use my new cutter, I decided to mow without adjusting the height. On the second round I heard a bang and realized the hydraulic line had popped out and fell under the mower. Chopped about a third of the 14' line into pieces.

Went to Kubota today and they gave me two different type fittings other than the round poppet that came with the cutter. I put all of them on the short hose remaining for grip and couldn't get any of them to stay in when I pulled backwards. There is no pressure on the valves and I have pushed them in every way imaginable. Any recommendations?

one of two things come to mind....

wrong fittings?

OR

fitting are not seating 100% - due to pressure on the lines.
Whatever controls the valves, roll the handles or levers or whatever "makes it move" and see IF it will lock.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Or they are supposed to work like that.
If there is no physically movable collar on the female end of the coupler, then they are the new style couplers.
You will need to push them on very hard to completely connect them, and to disconnect them just give them a yank!

 

[Tooljunkie]

So,they arent popping out on they own, but when you yank they come out? Perfect. This way if something snags hose, it will pop off. A hose really shouldnt be used for towing. Sometimes a person gets a little exhausted, pulls pins disconnects pto and drives away, now you would hardly notice.

 

[GWD]

Yep, that is how they are supposed to work (as others have stated). Push on, pull off. Sometimes with considerable difficulty.

There is no LOCK "on" like there is with fittings that have the sliding collar that has to be pulled back to fit (and then slide back to lock).

 

[huntersprings]

Or they are supposed to work like that.
If there is no physically movable collar on the female end of the coupler, then they are the new style couplers.
You will need to push them on very hard to completely connect them, and to disconnect them just give them a yank!

You may be correct? All three kind of snap in and snap out. Before I chopped up the hydraulic line, I would snap the one with the round poppit in and it appeared that it had locked. When I moved the lever to raise the cutter, it would pop out on the ground. I never got the shield off the cylinder rod to be able to lower the cutter so all the mowing I did was at maximum height. Guess I'll start over when I replace the hydraulic line.

To relieve the pressure in the valve before connecting, does it help to have the tractor turned off? I've read where people say to "jiggle" the lever that operates the hydraulics but does that mean a little jiggle or all the way up and down?

 

[PHPaul]

It took me a couple sessions to figure out that coupler too, as I was used to the retracting collar type.

With the tractor off and the implement on the ground, operate the valve lever fully in both directions three or four times to equalize the pressure, then yank them off.

 

[Dave_eng]

It may be that you are trying to use a remote valve designed to operate a double acting cylinder, i.e. a 4 way valve where what you have is a single acting cylinder which requires a 3 way valve. You have no way to relieve the pressure and this may cause the quick connect to not connect or come out.

From a Goggle search:

A single-acting cylinder needs supply to and exhaust from its port to operate. This requires a 3-way valve. A 3-way valve allows fluid flow to an actuator in one position and exhausts the fluid from it in the other position. Some 3-way valves have a third position that blocks flow at all ports.

A double-acting actuator requires a 4-way valve. A 4-way valve pressurizes and exhausts two ports interdependently.

Try posting in the hydraulic section of the other forum and the expert JJ may have a solution for you.

Dave M7040

 

[Dave_eng]

I found some info which explains how with a certain type of rear remote valve you can operate a single acting cylinder. The rear remote valve must have a float position.

From a Kubota manual:

To use the single-acting cylinder with the float valve,
connect this cylinder to the , [D] or [F] port.
To extend a single-acting cylinder, pull the remote
control valve lever rearward. To retract a cylinder,
push it fully forward to the "FLOAT" position. Do not
hold it in the down position, the transmission fluid may
be overheat.

Dave M7040