I've been thinking about using my harrow to break up the weeds and such along our roadside. I have a tiller but since my harrow gets so little use I thought I would try it. Am I wasting my time?
Disc harrow on untilled ground?
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How about a photo of the "disc harrow". There is a "disc", a "harrow", and a "disc harrow".
Not trying to be a SA, but rather clarifying what kind of implement we are talking about.
Not trying to be a SA, but rather clarifying what kind of implement we are talking about.
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GWD
Technically your 1st photo is an "offset" disc harrow. The following photos are disks.
Technically your 1st photo is an "offset" disc harrow. The following photos are disks.
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Orange Turbo
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I think you will find out the harrow will stay full of the grass/weeds, Disc it first, it will cut and dig, depending on how aggressive you set it. Especially if the grass is very dense. I think The disc will be your best option...........
Orange Turbo
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another thought, is your harrow a hard tooth or a spring tooth? I've used the hard tooth with weight on it to scratch the ground (very little grass) to reseed.
It might drag the weeds down and get a few out, but like was said, it'll fill up with the loose stuff....
It might drag the weeds down and get a few out, but like was said, it'll fill up with the loose stuff....
That is why I asked for photos from the OP. Sometimes the meaning of a term for one person is not the same as for another person.
For instance, in my understanding, your two photos are of "disc plows". They are plows that use discs for turning over the soil rather than moldboards.
Oh well, technology and terminology can be overdone. Call them whatever you want.
Orange Turbo
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Sweet!
there you go (disc),,,,You can adjust it to get pretty aggressive, and adding weight that thing will cut. If your looking to just cut things up, and not cut to deep leave it set as it is now. The more angle the more aggressive. never seen one with the middle buster attached............
there you go (disc),,,,You can adjust it to get pretty aggressive, and adding weight that thing will cut. If your looking to just cut things up, and not cut to deep leave it set as it is now. The more angle the more aggressive. never seen one with the middle buster attached............
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North Idaho Wolfman
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The serrated blades on the front do a great job of cutting through ground.
2 things will make that disk cut a little better change the angle via the center pins, more angle on the front will make it cut heavier and deeper.
also shortening the top link will make it pull the front down harder.
2 things will make that disk cut a little better change the angle via the center pins, more angle on the front will make it cut heavier and deeper.
also shortening the top link will make it pull the front down harder.
That should work just fine. Of course, place the gangs at an angle to till the soil.
I use the same type of disc-harrow on the road edges on the properties that I maintain. It does a fine job of knocking down the weeds. Sometimes it takes a second pass in a few days.
A couple of things:
>Don't disc too close to the road. A road department guy came by while I was working and told me that his supervisor didn't want the side of the road worked that much in case someone drove off the edge. I told the guy that if they sprayed weed killer, like the rest of the roads in the area, I wouldn't have to disc right next to the road. That shut him up. But I can see a possible liability issue.
>Try not to spread dirt on the road. The few locals with clean and / or expensive cars don't appreciate it.
EDIT:
I also have a homemade middle buster, of sorts, to avoid that annoying undisced strip down the middle of a tandem disc's path. Darn, recently deleted it off my hard drive...will try to get a photo.
Shortening the top link will make the front gangs dig more agressively but the rears won't be able to throw the dirt back. What you end up with is a wide trench. Keep the gangs level for a level field.
I use the same type of disc-harrow on the road edges on the properties that I maintain. It does a fine job of knocking down the weeds. Sometimes it takes a second pass in a few days.
A couple of things:
>Don't disc too close to the road. A road department guy came by while I was working and told me that his supervisor didn't want the side of the road worked that much in case someone drove off the edge. I told the guy that if they sprayed weed killer, like the rest of the roads in the area, I wouldn't have to disc right next to the road. That shut him up. But I can see a possible liability issue.
>Try not to spread dirt on the road. The few locals with clean and / or expensive cars don't appreciate it.
EDIT:
I also have a homemade middle buster, of sorts, to avoid that annoying undisced strip down the middle of a tandem disc's path. Darn, recently deleted it off my hard drive...will try to get a photo.
Shortening the top link will make the front gangs dig more agressively but the rears won't be able to throw the dirt back. What you end up with is a wide trench. Keep the gangs level for a level field.
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Got to thinking that you might not want to dig the edge of the road up too much in case of erosion? If you are in a part of the world where a firebreak or preventing spark induced wildfires is important, does mowing work adequately?
Technically JD calls there plows DISK plows not Disc plowsTechnically, both those pix are of disc-plows...
- No. 100B Series Tractor-Drawn Disk Plow
- 100 Series Disk Harrows
-1100 Series Killefer Offset Disk Harrows
WHAT!! John Deere doesn't know anything about tractors or implements anyway.Technically JD calls there plows DISK plows not Disc plows
- No. 100B Series Tractor-Drawn Disk Plow
- 100 Series Disk Harrows
-1100 Series Killefer Offset Disk Harrows
This is an Orange forum...we have to say that!
I've already tilled a sort of firebreak next to the inside of my fence. Here in California we are are 5% of normal rain/snow. We had exactly 1 good rainstorm back in December. And on top of that I live in the middle of a eucalyptis grove. I HOPE a firebreak will work!
Keep the ground clean and remove low limbs.
From:
http://blogs.kqed.org/science/2013/...fornia-icon-fire-hazard-and-invasive-species/
“Blue gum eucalyptus is one of the most fire-intensive plants,” says Klatt. Trees not only put a lot of fuel on the ground as they shed bark, leaves and twigs, but in intense fires, volatile compounds in foliage cause explosive burning. “Once bark catches fire, it gets blown ahead of the flame front and drops burning embers by the tens of thousands per acre in the urban community.”
North Idaho Wolfman
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Up your fire insurance, have a go bag ready, and be prepared to move fast.
It's scary how dry you are down there!