Millings for a driveway
- Thread starter The_Al
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Orange Turbo
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MX5100, pto13000kw, Loader, Ripper,Plow,Disc,Mower,Forks,3pt spreader,Box Blade.
I assume your talking asphalt, If so, my brother ran a asphalt plant and was getting them for the haul cost, Put them on a drive way to his shop and just bladed it level, than just drove over them and after a short wile it was pretty solid, he liked it. Not bad looking either, not as black as asphalt, lighter in color, kind of grey.
Spread it thick, 6-8", it sometimes has chunks of unground asphalt in it. If you are in a hot area, it will harden up in places, and may have soft spots. Only way to fix it after it has hardened, is to add more, or pave. Once you have it, you have to live with it, so it is a 2 edged sword...
I've had about 40 tons in a pile for 6 years. When I needed some material around an automatic waterer I put a tooth bar on the bucket of a 65HP tractor. It broke up, loaded and moved fine. I topped it off with some AB3 to make a nice walk area for cattle.
I've had two loads on my drive and so far I'm very happy with it. No dust and it hardens as you drive on it. I'm planning on getting a couple more loads. I just used the FEL to smooth it out.
A bud did a length of his driveway with millings spread it out ran a roller over with the tractor, then sprayed it with diesel,, let it set for a bit then ran tractor and roller over it again,, he did that 3 or 4 times,, that was like 5 years ago and it still looks good
It's great stuff! Shape it so it sheds water, drag it to get rid of lumps and uneven spots. If you can get a small vibratory roller pack it on a hot day. It will last forever and shed water.
I currently have recycled 2" minus crushed concrete on my driveway. I am hoping to top it with millings soon. i work for a paving company.
I currently have recycled 2" minus crushed concrete on my driveway. I am hoping to top it with millings soon. i work for a paving company.
I put down 1300 feet of it on my dirt road and rolled it after putting it down. After a few years it hardened back into solid blacktop, well gray top now. My advice is to get the base graded correctly with a crown before putting down the millings. To get a really nice surface put the millings down, use a vibrating roller to compact, spray the rolled surface with asphalt tack oil, and lightly sand the surface when done. You will have a nice smooth road that sheds water and will last for years.
I can't give any input on straight black top millings I've never really used it myself. Although, we do have a driveway on a hill that we used an "airport mix" which consists of crushed concrete, blacktop, and stone. It was laid a good 6" thick and rolled with a large roller. That stuff hold up like nothing I've ever seen. Processed gravel would always wash out from heavy rains, this stuff holds right together and doesn't wash out. Supposedly it's used as a base for airport runways....
My neighbour has the driveway done in millings, couple years ago. Still looks good. I would do it too, but farmer uses my driveway for field access.im afraid it would get torn up in short order.maybe a load for the parking areas.
ShaunBlake
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B6100D; B219; Piranha bar; Hodge stabilizers; Filled Ag rears; R322T w/48" deck
So what do you use, gravel? Does the farmer dress the driveway (at least as far as the gate)?
On second thought, I suspect that your frost heave would do more damage than the farmer. But my little piece of inheritance in s.w. Louisiana might really benefit from millings.
My 800'+ driveway is in millings. Above advice is good. Mine wasn't rolled down with a roller, just by driving on it. Recommend the 6" layer to start also. I too read about using diesel on a hot day but haven't found it necessary.
Its a 700 foot gravel driveway,with a slight slope to the road, seems to be the path for water to run off.the landscape changes year to year from the frost going down as far as 4 feet in places, reccomended depth for water lines is 6 feet. The nearest source for millings is 60 miles away, depending what its worth i may consider it. Just for parking aeas.
ShaunBlake
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B6100D; B219; Piranha bar; Hodge stabilizers; Filled Ag rears; R322T w/48" deck
If I understand correctly, the runoff goes down your gravel driveway. Prolly washes some gravel; paving would prevent that, but I think it would promote an erosion problem on the lower edge of the pavement.
Don't use diesel as it will strip the asphalt off the rock!
The intention of this product is to consolidate it. Pack it with a vibratory roller on a hot day day and all will be well! If we had low densities ( which is bad for payment) we would roll with a 30 tonne rubber tire roller on a hot day to get better compaction (density) and reduce penalties.
Just saying.
Put the diesel in the fuel tank not on the RAP ( recycled asphalt product).
Kubota Newbie
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M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Have a few hundred feet of drive done from millings, 3 years old now going on 4. Did 8-9 inches over a single layer of geotextile fabric after removing topsoil. The fabric is the key to a long lasting drive no matter the material you use. Note that some areas where they are recycling the millings for actual asphalt they allow a certain percentage of ground asphalt shingles in the mix.
Shingles sometimes have a high asphalt content as well as the fibres improve performance. We have incorporated recycled shingles into virgin asphalt and they improve the stability in the mix.