Homemade box blade

[ShaunBlake]

You not gaining anything cutting off what you already have. Super strong fix- weld another cross brace a couple inches below first one- against rippers. Then bar takes all abuse. Calculate your leverage from ground to pinhole.splitting difference will double the strength.

Yes! I vote for TJ's idea. So, that settles it!

 

[sawmill]

Yep! Tooljunkie nailed it!

 

[ShaunRH]

I'm not so sure. If that bar bends when a rock is hit, it will collapse in the sides and rip out the angle iron welds. It also will load up the dirt in front of the rippers faster so you might not get full fill of the box behind the cross braces.

It is the fast fix, but not sure if it's a permanent fix without some consequences to it.

 

[Daren Todd]

Shaun, gonna fix it the way you suggested. Looked at a monster of one today, and that was how it was set up. They notched a 4x4 square tubing for the rippers and pinned it on top. Just gotta find time to get back to it. Been getting run through the coals this week and I'm supposed to be on vacation


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[BadDog]

You could also put a bar in front above the pins. It will press on the back of the restraining bar as it pushed into the existing backer bar as a fulcrum. Bottom is better since it shortens the lever, but taking the load off the pins (and flanges) is the most important goal. You just have to make the top bar strong enough.

 

[Lil Foot]

If that bar bends when a rock is hit, it will collapse in the sides and rip out the angle iron welds. It also will load up the dirt in front of the rippers faster so you might not get full fill of the box behind the cross braces.

That's why I suggested in front of the upper ends of the rippers.

You could also put a bar in front above the pins. It will press on the back of the restraining bar as it pushed into the existing backer bar as a fulcrum.

I thought I said that already.

 

[bcp]

There aren't many with rippers in front of the main beam, but here are how some did it.

http://www.everythingattachments.co...Tractor-Box-Blade-p/kk-bb-48-xb-box-blade.htm

http://image.frompo.com/cbeb9b1ac7704eec0b889c143186d71c

http://www.bychain.com/product/sell/3-point-hitch-box-blade-box-scraper.html

Bruce

 

[BadDog]

I thought I said that already.

Sorry, scanning through, missed that.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The reason they are failing is the way your welding the flanges on, yes your getting the sides but the whole middle is just a pocket that can distort and bend.
If you look closely at the designs that BCP put up, you will notice that there is a hole in the center of the brackets that has also been welded.
Take a 1/2 drill bit and cut a hole in just the bracket (closer to the web the better) and then weld that hole to the metal behind it, it will be 100% stronger!

 

[BadDog]

Good point. A rosette weld directly behind the pin would provide a much stronger joint.

 

[Tooljunkie]

My approach was to shorten the lever. Not likely it will collapse if cross bar is heavy enough. 1x2" rectangle tubing doubled up to make a 2x2 would be stronger than a 2x2 1/4 wall square. i have used doubled tubing to carry some pretty good loads.

With it being welded a couple inches below existing bar, the side panel would have to stretch or tear in order for sides to collapse.

Find out the tensile strength of the rippers and build to support that.would be overbuilt i bet.

I guess building it to withstand whatever the tractor can pull would be the case here.

 

[Daren Todd]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll have some time this afternoon and tonight to get back to it. I looked at one yesterday that was behind a 60 horse tractor with 1" rippers. They used two pieces of 1 1/2" x 4" channel iron welded together to make a 3x4 piece. With holes in the center for the rippers and used some pieces of strapping welded to the top for the pins.

Gonna torch out the main beam and do something similar. I'm tired of screwing with it.


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[Daren Todd]

Update: after consulting the local welding shop, I think I got the welder licked at least

After fixing the ground clamp. Picking up and replacing the electrode holder

Torched out the spots for the rippers, gonna have to some slight grinding to the edges

Cranked the amps up to 115, and loved the results, compared to what I was getting. Switched from a 6011 rod to a 7014 rod. The 6011 rod was some bad advice.

Here's the welds, and had great penetration all the way through

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[Daren Todd]

Now I just need to make the brackets for the pins

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[Daren Todd]

Got the brackets made up and on. Checked movement of the rippers. Rippers catch the edge of the slots before they put any pressure on the pins should have done this the first time around

Now to torch the welds on the old beam. See if I can scare up a bfh, and then need to install the new beam


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[Tooljunkie]

Welds look good.
6011 arent my favorite either, i have good success with 6013. 7018ac are a challenge, but are a tough weld.
The slots should work for you,giving support where it is effective.

 

[Daren Todd]

Thanks I was beginning to doubt my skills. used to have a miller bobcat on a service truck and had gotten pretty good. But haven't messed with it in almost 9 years.

Got the main beam out. Got some grinding to do, then it's installing the new beam

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[MagKarl]

Your are on the right track now by using the pins only to set the elevation of the shanks. I will echo, add more steel as others have suggested to increase the span the load is reacted over, bottom side on the bottom, front side on the top.

Keep at it with the stick welder, I find it much more satisfying than MIG myself. Anyone can make MIG welds look nice, 6011 is a completely different story. It's a deep penetrator and good for rusty/used steel. I use 7018AC on clean steel if I want it to look nicer.

 

[D2Cat]

A nice rod for metal, dirty or clean, in all positions is 6011+. I use it for welding oil field pipe and sucker rod for fencing.

 

[Daren Todd]

Got it done

Now for paint sometime in the near future. If the rain holds off tomorrow I'll put it behind the l2250 and see about finding that root again


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