B7100 HST project underway. Rough start...

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
So I started off looking for a B7100 in the NW (I am in Portland). I placed an ad in the classifieds on this forum and received several helpful replies. I followed Craigslist for a few weeks and got an idea of what people were asking and what they were going for in various conditions. Then I came upon a "fixer". I have a knack for dragging home injured vehicles like a kid who falls in love with a free kitten. So what did I get?




Newer model B7100 HST - the frame is dark grey and the engine still has fresh paint and factory decals.

Aftermarket quick release Westendorf TA-55 loader.

"Frozen engine"

As I have embarked on my journey of diagnosis (Tractortopsy) I have discovered a laundry list of problems. And before saying more, I would like to thank all of the folks who offer expertise and share their experiences on this forum because I have learned an awful lot. I know what many of these problems are and now have some idea of how to tackle them. There are individual threads describing many if not all of these problems but I'll make a laundry list of sorts. Feel free to offer advise on any or all of them.

1) Frozen engine turns out to be shattered clutch. Looking at the damage and after studying past posts regarding pilot bushings, clutch failure etc, it appears that someone replaced the clutch in this tractor without replacing the pilot bushing. The crankshaft hole is slightly enlarged and the drive shaft slightly damaged. I have read threads where people have removed the crank shaft, machined the original hole and installed a larger bushing. Others have bored out the flywheel and inserted a bushing there. Some people have found that their pilot bushing is much larger than the factory part - probably because someone made this repair prior to them purchasing their tractor. I'm leaning toward machining the crankshaft and if all looks good in the pan, reusing the bearings. That way I can still use a seal to keep dust and grime out of the pilot bushing. The flywheel route would be much less work. I'm curious how these two approaches have held up. The splined drive shaft is banged up where it inserts into the crankshaft. If anyone has one in good condition, please let me know.

2) The front frame member was cracked allowing the front axle to move fore and aft. The previous owner made a feeble attempt to weld it - the gap was huge and the weld was like bubble gum. I already purchased a replacement from a tractor junkyard.

3) The movement of the axle resulted in two pretty large gashes in the front of the oil pan. Still intact but it dug in enough that I would like to find a replacement. Anyone have an oil pan from a dead engine that they would part with?

4) The rear frame member is cracked. There are stress cracks toward the rear three accessory mounting holes on each side - these are not so bad. I planned to weld them up. The bell housing is cracked at the top rim. I figure this is related to the clutch failure. This bit looks weldable too. The final blow is that there are cracks on both FEL mounting brackets. The face of the brackets are cracked. I'm not sure but it looks like someone modified the FEL mounting bracket and it may be inadequately supported. That or it was just used and abused. The junk yard has rear frames but only for geared B7100's. If anyone has a dead B7100HST with an intact rear frame, I would be happy to take it off your hands. I was ok with welding this frame until I found the cracks in the loader mounting brackets. Those are hard to live with and I'm not so sure my welded repair will be as strong as it needs to be. Really hard to get to the back side of the damaged pieces. Additionally, if anyone has a picture of a TA-55 is mounted to a B7100, it would be really helpful to get an idea if I am missing some mounting parts.


Well, there you have it. I can post some more pictures if anyone is interested. I find the age of the tractor curious because it has the dark grey frame paint. I think the orange is the early orange but haven't confirmed that. A dealer thought it was from 2002 but I am not sure they were selling these units after about 1999 from what I have read. It doesn't seem that the serial numbers are particularly helpful to sort out the age of a B7100.

I know this post reads kind of like a bad country song. The good news is that my girl hasn't left me and my dog is still alive. :eek:

Thanks again to the folks who post on Orange Tractor Talks. Any advice is welcome.
 

Tooljunkie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
33
48
60
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
Good write-up. Sorry i have nothing to offer. Locked engine problem/clutch seems repairable. Finding a machine shop capable will be a bonus, supplying crank and proper bushing/bearing will simplify things. Having oil pan welded may be your easiest option.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
30,249
6,404
113
Sandpoint, ID
I would say the #1 cause of all the cracks and broken parts is the fact the loader does not have the axle bars or sub-frame on it.
That loader is designed to mount on a full frame tractor an not a partial frame like the old Kubotas.;)
 

Apogee

Member

Equipment
B6100, B7100, B8200, B9200, G4200, L175, L35
Jan 22, 2012
518
0
16
Tacoma, WA
Welcome to the site!

As long as you didn't pay too much, your project will turn out just fine. Even if you did, it will still turn out just fine...

I wouldn't even consider reusing the crankshaft bearings. If you pull that crank, plan on replacing all of the bearings. You will have better oil pressure that way. If the crank is all worn, have it machined while it's out. No point it doing things half way...

I agree with Wolf regarding the loader. The Kubota loader for that tractor came with a sub-frame. It's nothing fancy and wouldn't be hard to fabricate one. There are pics of the sub-frame scattered on the web and this site to give you an idea of what they look like.

Bummer regarding the rear housing cracks. Have you contacted Raffi (the guy who sells Kubota parts down in the Portland area) to see if he happens to have the rear housing assembly?

Engine parts for it come up on eBay all of the time. You will likely find an oil pan there. If not, I'd call West Kentucky Tractor to see if they can help you out. They might also have the rear housing you need.

It appears Farmland Tractor in Tangent, OR has an HST with a rear housing. It also looks to have the sub-frame under it. Look at the second to last listing on this page:

http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/dismantledsearch.aspx?Manu=KUBOTA&Mdltxt=B7100

Well, at least it looks nice!

Good luck with it. Don't lose your patience and it will all work out fine!

Steve
 
Last edited:

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Apogee, thank you for re-igniting my inspiration. You are absolutely right about the crank bearings. I will proceed with your suggestions. I think I may try to start the engine on the bench before I tear it down to get a baseline for how it runs. Probably not a bad idea.

Regarding the frame, I bought the front frame member from Raffi here in Portland. All of his parts tractors were geared so he didn't have the rear piece. I might check with him to see if he has a sub-frame that might work with modifications to support my front loader.

Steve, patience was your best suggestion of all. Looks like I'm going to need a healthy serving of it...

Chris
 

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
Wow, just got off the phone with Farmland Tractor in Tangent, Oregon. They have a rusty B7100 HST that has been on fire. They want $2000 for the rear frame housing. Does anyone else think that's a bit steep for a burned up tractor frame member? I can't get my jaw off the ground....
 

BadDog

New member

Equipment
B7100D TL and B2150D TLB
Jun 5, 2013
579
2
0
Phoenix, AZ
My opinion, keep looking.

I was looking for a "decent" hood to replace the one on my 7100. PO dumped a load of rock over the back of the bucket completely demolishing the front of the hood and headlight area. I'm not interested in new or perfect, so though I would see what a "decent" hood might cost. I explained what I wanted, he had one with just a few minor dents, and sent me a pic. The hood (stripped, just the sheet metal) was at best *rough* (but not as bad as mine). IIRC, he wanted over $300 + crating and shipping fees. I told him I would pass.
 

ShaunRH

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3200
May 14, 2014
1,414
6
0
Atascadero, CA
Wow, just got off the phone with Farmland Tractor in Tangent, Oregon. They have a rusty B7100 HST that has been on fire. They want $2000 for the rear frame housing. Does anyone else think that's a bit steep for a burned up tractor frame member? I can't get my jaw off the ground....
Sorry, I would've laughed and told them I could find an entire used one for just a little more than that.

Welding isn't so bad unless it's a casting, then you need some better skills to go with it. Otherwise it works just fine and can be stronger than the original part.

If the loader is not mounted on a sub-frame or full length frame, and the tractor isn't made to have one directly attached to it, you will need to fabricate your own frame. If you have welding skills, it's pretty straightforward but you might need to get creative in where and how to attach the frame. When you're done designing, remember the tractor should only be handling the weight, not the stresses of the operations...
 

OldeEnglish

New member

Equipment
B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
Jul 13, 2014
768
7
0
Western, MA
Nice find! I got a quote from westendorf for that same loader last year and it's worth a pretty penny. Here is the quote....

Good Morning Mike!

Thank you for your inquiry with Westendorf Mfg.! The TA-55 would be an excellent fit for your Kubota B7100DT! The base package for this loader includes:

• 1-3/4” Bucket Cylinder
• 1-1/2” Lift Cylinder
• Hydraulic Power-Mount™
• Mounting & Hose Kit
• Regen Valve & Joystick Package
• Bucket Gauge Rod
• 48” Bucket

I can sell you the TA-55 base package with valve and joystick and rear axle kit for $3,995 plus freight charges.

If you have any questions regarding this quote or another product, to locate your closest dealer, or to place an order please email or call me at 866-423-2762 ext.102!

Thanks!
Meegan


I wonder if the rear axel kit is a subframe and yours missing it?
 

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
So the project continues. I have torn the tractor down to the main frame. Slow going with all the hydraulics and linkages. Here are a few pics and I have a couple of questions as well. It turns out that Wolfman is absolutely correct. Thw Westendorf loader had no subframe and it literally broke my tractor in half. Below are pictures of the mid frame section coming off and also of it after power washing. I am planning on welding the frame and using it as I havent found a used one and the damage is not all that bad. Just time... Here are a couple of questions:

1) Using photos from a previous thread I am going to fabricate a factory style subframe. Anyone have any better pictures than the one below. It is heplful but I cant see all the joints well. Also wondering what thickness steel it is made from. Looks like 3/8 or so to me but cant tell for sure.

2) When I removed the strainers from the HST, there were some metal filings behind the screen. A few were the size of large grains of sand. There were also two angled pieces of steel that looked like machined corners from some internal piece. About 1/8" each. They dont look like gear teeth but I cant be sure. Anyone eles find anything similar behind their screens?











Here is the subframe from a previous thread that I am going to try to fabricate. Going to be a little tricky making the curved bits that bolt to the axle.



 

CaveCreekRay

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Jul 11, 2014
2,631
100
48
Cave Creek, AZ
Awesome project... You'll get 'er done -EVENTUALLY! And it will be better than before.

For all you guys with dented sheet metal, don't forget your local body shop!!!

I started out with a severely mashed hood and after a little body work ($300) I did a little paint and the guys at my dealer never knew until I showed them.
 

Attachments

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
Project update! First off, I will post a picture below of the two larger metal bits from behind my screens in the HST. They sure look like the corner of a gear tooth to me. A dime is in the picture for size reference. They are closer to 1/4" than 1/8" like I had said before. I have read some other threads where the dealer told the person to fire up their tractor and see if it works. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this is not going to cause any problems and I'm glad I fished the pieces out of there.



In other news, I mounted the engine on the front frame member, clamped it to the work bench, filled up the fuel tank and hooked up a battery to my starter. I pulled the trigger and ....... nothing happened. I removed the starter and tried it on the bench and it would engage the gear but not turn. I completely disassembled my starter - it looks brand new - to find that the shattered clutch pieces had made their way into the starter and mangled pieces of metal were clinging to the magnets in the motor. Cleaned it all up and reassembled it and worked perfect. Bled the fuel system and tried again and she fired right up.
Below is a video of the running engine on the bench. I took the advice of some folks and removed the hydraulic pump - leaving the bearing and drive slot exposed but it didnt seem to hurt anything. Here is what is under the hydraulic pump:




And here is the running engine:

 

Calman93611

Member

Equipment
Kubota B7100 w/FEL & BH, Kubota B7100 w/FEL and box scraper, Kubota K008,
Mar 8, 2015
31
0
6
Clovis, CA
Hi Chrissy,

Here is a complete B7100 HST on craigslist $2800.

Better to start here and use your B7100 as a parts machine.
 

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
Calman, I haven't given up yet but the more things I find wrong, the more I would consider another tractor. I only have 2K in this one. I figure I will weld up the frame, put a clutch in it and see if it goes. If it does, it's worth fabricating a subframe and moving forward. If there's a transmission problem, I have a nice loader and a good running engine. I couldn't find the tractor you mentioned on Craigslist.
 

Calman93611

Member

Equipment
Kubota B7100 w/FEL & BH, Kubota B7100 w/FEL and box scraper, Kubota K008,
Mar 8, 2015
31
0
6
Clovis, CA
Calman, I haven't given up yet but the more things I find wrong, the more I would consider another tractor. I only have 2K in this one. I figure I will weld up the frame, put a clutch in it and see if it goes. If it does, it's worth fabricating a subframe and moving forward. If there's a transmission problem, I have a nice loader and a good running engine. I couldn't find the tractor you mentioned on Craigslist.
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/hvo/4902241743.html

condition: good

Kubota B7100 4x4,
Manual ($2500.00)
HST ($2800.00)
 

Chrissy

New member

Equipment
B7100D
Feb 5, 2015
19
0
0
Ventura, California
Re: B7100 HST project update...

So I got the transmission loaded up on a trailer and power washed it this weekend. If I'm going to split the transmission open, I want it nice and clean. I am debating whether or not I should break it between the transmission and the rear axle first or between the HST pump and the gear box first. It was awful windy this weekend and I was powerwashing in a fierce blow. When I was done, I drove the trailer around the block and backed it into the shop - I was about to close the shop door and there was a loud boom and the power went out. I drove back to my front yard to find that our power line had blown down and was laying on my driveway right where I was wet and powerwashing only moments earlier. The tractor project is somewhat overwhelming but my luck with that one makes me feel ever so slightly fortunate.



I pulled the oil pan off the engine. Ready to remove the crankshaft. Does anyone know if you have to pull the front timing cover or if you can just pull it out the rear of the engine. Going to take the crank shaft to a machine shop and see about an oversized pilot bearing. New drive shaft ordered and on the way.

Chrissy
 

ShaunBlake

New member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B6100D; B219; Piranha bar; Hodge stabilizers; Filled Ag rears; R322T w/48" deck
Dec 21, 2014
899
1
0
82
Sugar Hill -- next door to Buford, GA
Re: B7100 HST project update...

... and power washed it this weekend... I was about to close the shop door and there was a loud boom and the power went out. I drove back to my front yard to find that our power line had blown down and was laying on my driveway right where I was wet and powerwashing only moments earlier. The tractor project is somewhat overwhelming but my luck with that one makes me feel ever so slightly fortunate.
Ah, lad, 'tis the Irish in ye makin' ye master the understatement!