The manual says 14-77 degrees use sae20, sae10w-30, or 15w-40. Is there one that's better than the other?
50 Hour Oil Change--What Oil to Use?
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CaveCreekRay
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The higher weights (15-40) will offer better protection at a slight cost in efficiency.
If you use your tractor every day and run no longer between changes than recommended, straight mineral (regular) oil will be adequate. Synthetic will give you better start-up protection as it has better "wetting" properties between starts. Synthetic will also get you across recommended intervals with better protection overall. If you run the mineral oil and change the oil every 100 hours (instead of the 200 recommended) you should be in great shape too.
The only negative to a high grade mineral oil is for users who don't start up but once a week or longer. That first start after a few days is really hard on the engine until the oil pump bathes the innards with oil. That is where the synthetic oils shine. They stick to the metal and give you better protection over longer periods between start ups.
Other than using a high quality name brand oil, the biggee is the supplementary additive package the oil gets. Cheap oils have cheap additives that don't do much to keep the oil clean, help it neutralize acids, stick to the metals (a wetting agent), suspend and help filter damaging metals and dirt, and do other critical jobs during an oils life cycle.
Buy the good stuff. And change it often.
If you use your tractor every day and run no longer between changes than recommended, straight mineral (regular) oil will be adequate. Synthetic will give you better start-up protection as it has better "wetting" properties between starts. Synthetic will also get you across recommended intervals with better protection overall. If you run the mineral oil and change the oil every 100 hours (instead of the 200 recommended) you should be in great shape too.
The only negative to a high grade mineral oil is for users who don't start up but once a week or longer. That first start after a few days is really hard on the engine until the oil pump bathes the innards with oil. That is where the synthetic oils shine. They stick to the metal and give you better protection over longer periods between start ups.
Other than using a high quality name brand oil, the biggee is the supplementary additive package the oil gets. Cheap oils have cheap additives that don't do much to keep the oil clean, help it neutralize acids, stick to the metals (a wetting agent), suspend and help filter damaging metals and dirt, and do other critical jobs during an oils life cycle.
Buy the good stuff. And change it often.
Hi All,
I use common brands of oil, as the climate where we live is very mild even in winter.
What I use for last 15 years is a Nulon additive, which contains Teflon.
Since then I have not had to rebuild any machine.
I put it in all my diesel engines and hydraulic transitions.
Regards Frank
I use common brands of oil, as the climate where we live is very mild even in winter.
What I use for last 15 years is a Nulon additive, which contains Teflon.
Since then I have not had to rebuild any machine.
I put it in all my diesel engines and hydraulic transitions.
Regards Frank
Daren Todd
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Yes sir 
Every one has an opinion on oil, and some can be pretty passionate about it!!
You can use pretty much what ever you like for oil. Just do yourself a favor and make sure the oil is rated for diesel engines.
Every one has an opinion on oil, and some can be pretty passionate about it!!You can use pretty much what ever you like for oil. Just do yourself a favor and make sure the oil is rated for diesel engines.
CaveCreekRay
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I used to be a HUGE believer in Slick 50, which used PTFE resin as a means to Teflon coat your engine.
My brother owned an import auto repair business in L.A. and one time I was visiting him and did an oil change and was adding Slick 50. One of his really smart, German mechanics came over and read the bottle. Then he turned to me and asked, "Why does my wife have to use a special spatula on her Teflon pans?" Before thinking I answered, "Because you'll scratch off the Teflon!" Then he asked, "So how does this Teflon not get scratched off the bearing surfaces and piston liners where everything is metal-to-metal?"
The light bulb over my head started to flicker...
Then, Slick 50 got sued for clogging up oil journals in smaller motors with the PTFE beads that came in the "sauce."
I am trying to find a wonderful report I have somewhere a bunch of engineers who rode motorcycles did on oil types. It obviously wasn't for diesels but, the conclusions were very valid. Motorcycle engines, by their design, are extremely punishing on oil. These engineers devised tests using helical gears and pressure and ran various oils through these punishments and then examined the oils microscopically. HUGE difference between brands. And, they looked at additives. Most did very little, if any, good.
My brother owned an import auto repair business in L.A. and one time I was visiting him and did an oil change and was adding Slick 50. One of his really smart, German mechanics came over and read the bottle. Then he turned to me and asked, "Why does my wife have to use a special spatula on her Teflon pans?" Before thinking I answered, "Because you'll scratch off the Teflon!" Then he asked, "So how does this Teflon not get scratched off the bearing surfaces and piston liners where everything is metal-to-metal?"
The light bulb over my head started to flicker...
Then, Slick 50 got sued for clogging up oil journals in smaller motors with the PTFE beads that came in the "sauce."
I am trying to find a wonderful report I have somewhere a bunch of engineers who rode motorcycles did on oil types. It obviously wasn't for diesels but, the conclusions were very valid. Motorcycle engines, by their design, are extremely punishing on oil. These engineers devised tests using helical gears and pressure and ran various oils through these punishments and then examined the oils microscopically. HUGE difference between brands. And, they looked at additives. Most did very little, if any, good.
All I know for sure is I used the cheapest stuff I could find in my old GMC had 240K+ and that old gal worked hard for a living, A young man bought it to fix up for a work truck, said him and dad pulled the motor to do a rebuild cause of the mileage,, Tore it down and put it back together he said it needed nothing,, Go figure,, I use M1 15w50 in the bike,, why? hell if I know just because someone said it was THE WAY to go. Any oil that meets MFG requirements will work well,,, just MHO you understand
85Hokie
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Daren hit the nail on the head - MAKE SURE to get diesel type....
now opening more cans of worms......
never use a straight weigh of "sae20" ...
multiviscosities were INVENTED to make engines run longer ......and they work !!!!!!
in your climate - I would run nothing higher than 10w......
i bet it gets right cold there !
if you can find it - run 0w! - 30
and I am a synthetic believer !
it isnt slicker - it isnt magic - it costs more per unit, it gets just as dirty, BUT IT DOES NOT BREAK DOWN AS FAST AS DINO OIL.....so it lasts longerrrrrrrrrrrrrr
the colder the engine is - the thicker the oil, 95% of ALLLLLL engine wear starts at ..........well..........start up!
A zero weight will flow "better" than 10 and so on ......
if you want to keep the ol girl running w/o problems - run "good" stuff in her, you would not want someone giving you a blood transfusion with.......well nevermind !
85Hokie
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Hi All,
Teflon in the oil sticks to all metals and prevents dry contact between.
25 years ago, maybe even longer, they tested Teflon additive in Australia.
They run a car with added Teflon in the engine oil from Melbourne to Sydney.
Then they drain the oil from engine and run it back to Melbourne without oil.
No problems, car engine was protected by Teflon. That was a deciding factor for me.
Of cause Teflon in liquid form is a different to one on frying pan as somebody mention before.
Teflon additive in liquid form, like other additives does not block oil filter, as the particles are extremely fine.
And I like to add, that most engine oils today are excellent quality thanks to advance chemistry and continued research.
Synthetic oils are not made from synthetic materials, they are still mineral based, very fine refine from all the bad stuff and additives added.
So you pay more because it costs more to make.
Regards Frank
Teflon in the oil sticks to all metals and prevents dry contact between.
25 years ago, maybe even longer, they tested Teflon additive in Australia.
They run a car with added Teflon in the engine oil from Melbourne to Sydney.
Then they drain the oil from engine and run it back to Melbourne without oil.
No problems, car engine was protected by Teflon. That was a deciding factor for me.
Of cause Teflon in liquid form is a different to one on frying pan as somebody mention before.
Teflon additive in liquid form, like other additives does not block oil filter, as the particles are extremely fine.
And I like to add, that most engine oils today are excellent quality thanks to advance chemistry and continued research.
Synthetic oils are not made from synthetic materials, they are still mineral based, very fine refine from all the bad stuff and additives added.
So you pay more because it costs more to make.
Regards Frank
whitetiger
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Who are "they"..... We have all heard this old wives tale, nobody knows who "THEY" are.
Why would you dilute your teflon with oil if it is so great???
CaveCreekRay
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I have mentioned this before but...
On the airline ramp, there were cases of AeroShell 5wt turbine oil sitting around. Jets don't ever get oil changes. They burn a fair amount every hour so the oil never gets dirty. They just add oil regularly and track what they add in the logbook.
Anyway, the word got out that the AeroShell was great for the turbines so it must be good for the diesels. Within a few weeks there were Kubota's sitting around with toasted engines.
Diesel oil for diesels is critical.
On the airline ramp, there were cases of AeroShell 5wt turbine oil sitting around. Jets don't ever get oil changes. They burn a fair amount every hour so the oil never gets dirty. They just add oil regularly and track what they add in the logbook.
Anyway, the word got out that the AeroShell was great for the turbines so it must be good for the diesels. Within a few weeks there were Kubota's sitting around with toasted engines.
Diesel oil for diesels is critical.