Logs - How About This?

[Russell King]

coachgeo,

There is no down force with a 3 point. The implement is just hanging on the arms and could be lifted to the top of the travel allowed by the tractor.

If the tractor was flipping over, the implement would hit the ground, but not have any force to slow the tractor at all.

 

[Lil Foot]

If so, how would you get a curl in the sled (assuming a piece of plate)?

Here are pics of my rock skid, made from !/4" steel remnant roll end. The curl at the end of the roll is seldom removed at the mill, so suppliers usually sell the curled end as remnants. The supplier I chose had about 6-8 of these laying around. The curl corners are actually nicely radiused also, makes a great sled.

 

[bcp]

Here are pics of my rock skid,...

Peoria AZ sure has changed in 40-50 years. It used to be a small town surrounded by farms and desert. Now it's a pine forest.

Bruce

 

[Lil Foot]

Now it's a pine forest.

Don't I wish.
It's actually the Blue Ridge area, about halfway between Payson & Winslow off hwy 87. My get away place.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Don't I wish.
It's actually the Blue Ridge area, about halfway between Payson & Winslow off hwy 87. My get away place.

When we were in Phoenix, Our get away place was up there too, Halfway between Pine and Strawberry.
Would go up every Thursday and stay till Sunday evening. Also spent all our holidays up there.
Made working in PHX area a little easier.

 

[L4300DT]

Hi Stitchit, I just got back from the woods hauling out tree length cherry and maple, and spent 6 weeks last year hauling out white pine logs for large timbers. The way I do it, and will continue to do it, is exactly how your dealer suggested you do it. Seems to work well for me. The trick is to choke the log up and pull out all the slack, and then back up over it so the hook is right at the choker, lower the 3pt and hook as close to the log as you can if it's large. I will then lift the 3 pt all the way up, check to see if that pulled through any slack, and if so, drop it again and hook up tighter. This is only required for larger diameter logs, to make sure you get the butt off the ground. Also, if the butt isn't off the ground with all this when you're just sitting there, it may well be off the ground when you start moving ahead. In my experience, the only logs where the end would still be dragging with this approach, would be very large ones.

B

 

[ShaunBlake]

The way I do it, and will continue to do it, is exactly how your dealer suggested you do it... The trick is to choke the log up and pull out all the slack, and then back up over it so the hook is right at the choker, lower the 3pt and hook as close to the log as you can if it's large. I will then lift the 3 pt all the way up, check to see if that pulled through any slack, and if so, drop it again and hook up tighter.

Thanks, for that confirmation, B! I intended to try that but was mentally tooling up for a more elaborate solution. Now I'll use the $$ I saved to FAX you some Guinness.

-Shaun-

 

[Stubbyie]

The way the rigging is shown is a prescription for getting you killed.

Never tow from a point above the rear axle. Never.

The blue 3-point cross-bar is the same deal: deadly.

Here's why, based on experience...

You're dragging a log, log hangs up, tractor continues forward, tractor starts to rotate in a big circle around its rear axle, 3-point goes 'up' with it, in about a half-a-heartbeat you're flipped completely over.

Get the drawbar that bolts or pins onto the bottom of the rear axle housing. Attach the clevis grab-hook onto it, and pull SAFELY all day.

If the butt end of the log is tearing up the trail, get a skid under the log-end and let it glide all the way home.

I use an old car hood I turned up. Maybe an old tire might work or a short piece of timber making a 'T' that will slide along the trail.

You can come up with something safer than what is shown.

REMEMBER NEVER pull from a point above--or that will become above when rotated--the rear axle.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[pendoreille]

i have yarded a lot of timber out of woods with my chevy 4wd low range.
I put about a 45 deg scarf cut on the drag end. of course you have to broom and wash dirt off when hunking up into fire wood or file chains a lot.

 

[L4300DT]

The way the rigging is shown is a prescription for getting you killed.

Never tow from a point above the rear axle. Never.

The blue 3-point cross-bar is the same deal: deadly.

Here's why, based on experience...

You're dragging a log, log hangs up, tractor continues forward, tractor starts to rotate in a big circle around its rear axle, 3-point goes 'up' with it, in about a half-a-heartbeat you're flipped completely over.

Get the drawbar that bolts or pins onto the bottom of the rear axle housing. Attach the clevis grab-hook onto it, and pull SAFELY all day.

If the butt end of the log is tearing up the trail, get a skid under the log-end and let it glide all the way home.

I use an old car hood I turned up. Maybe an old tire might work or a short piece of timber making a 'T' that will slide along the trail.

You can come up with something safer than what is shown.

REMEMBER NEVER pull from a point above--or that will become above when rotated--the rear axle.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

You are absolutely right, this CAN happen, but remember when the butt is lifted off the ground you are infinitely less likely to fetch up on something. This can also happen when you're plowing and hit a rock. I keep the loader on the front for weight though this won't stop it of course. You have to be ready on the clutch and keep the wheels turning slowly. I fetched up once but expected it and I just spun out and didn't lift the front end, but conditions may vary. Your warning is a wise on Stubbyie, but I think this can be done with due care.

 

[Stitchit1]

Thanks guys! Yes, "If" I had solid traction, this may be an issue. However, the ground I'm working on is basically wet. Real wet. Thus, creates a frustrating traction issue. If the log comes in contact with even the ground, the tractor looses traction. Didn't care for the tires on snow/ice. But, all in all, if there were a tire that'd supply traction in the snow as well as it does on bare dirt, I'd probably be willing to invest in them.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If there were a tire that'd supply traction in the snow as well as it does on bare dirt, I'd probably be willing to invest in them.

Your answer would be, CHAINS
All the logging equipment uses them around here, all the time.

 

[L4300DT]

Your answer would be, CHAINS
All the logging equipment uses them around here, all the time.

Yup, chains turn three season tires into 4 season tires and back again whenever you want. That being said, lifting the front end would be more of a concern with that much traction on the back!

 

[Stitchit1]

Thanks Wolfman!! Never thought about chains. Are they a pain to keep in place on the tire?

 

[Stitchit1]

L4300, are you saying use chains on the rear tires only? I understand what you are saying as far as more tread on rear tires=increased risk of front lifting.

 

[L4300DT]

Yup, rear tires only. Lots of folks here would know better than me, but as I understand, the front's gotta slip a bit every now and then in FWD, and if you lock it to the ground too well with chains, you add stress to components in the front end. I suppose you MIGHT consider it if you were on a lot of ice and were having a hard time steering, but staying home might be a better and cheaper option! Splitting the brakes and steering a bit with those can help with steering if it's real slick, but asking yourself why you're doing this in the first place might be better!

B

 

[Stitchit1]

Hahaha. Gotcha. I've had chains on my arc which were a pain to keep from moving side to side. I'm sure tractor tires aren't the same. I'd hope anyways.

 

[L4300DT]

We had a lot of ice up here last year with a couple of ice storms, and my tractor was pretty near useless without chains even with ag. tires and FWD on flat ground. Couldn't push snow. I now think chains are a necessity and if you look after them and keep them TIGHT (and don't be lazy and put off tightening them if they get loose) and stay off the pavement and don't be silly and churn your tires all the time, the chains will last you for years and cost you very little per year of their life. I got studded ones and the traction on ice is fantastic.

With the exchange rate, these would be pretty cheap for you!

http://www.canadianchains.ca/DuoGrip-Tractor-V-Bar-Chains-_p_30.html

B

 

[L4300DT]

Oh and regarding the difficulty in keeping them in place, I never even had to touch mine even after working for a couple of weeks straight in the woods. AFTER the first day. You are going to screw with them a bunch when you first put them on to take out the slack to keep them tight (did I say keep them tight?) but it's time well spent. You look like you're in rough terrain there, so get some good chains and watch that front end.

B

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Tractor chains are really easy to keep in place, most new designs are tight without the need of rubber tighteners.
It will give you at least twice the traction if not more.

An no don't use them on the fronts unless you are sliding all over the place, the bite on the front can cause more damage than it's worth.