What's up wi' the B6100 axels stickin out?

[ShaunBlake]

Okay, I should be scouring the forum, and wait for the manuals to be delivered from the 'Messy' outfit... but for the same reason I don't buy green bananas:

My newly-acquired B6100 (is it a 'D', or a 'DT'? I am currently *totally confused*!) has rear axle shafts that stick out about 6" beyond the hub. I'm thinking it may be to enable moving the hub out to give the tractor a wider footprint.

What's the benefit and cost of moving the wheels out (other than the obvious benefit that I wouldn't be tipping it over as often)?

Cheers!
-Shaun-

 

[85Hokie]

Okay, I should be scouring the forum, and wait for the manuals to be delivered from the 'Messy' outfit... but for the same reason I don't buy green bananas:

My newly-acquired B6100 (is it a 'D', or a 'DT'? I am currently *totally confused*!) has rear axle shafts that stick out about 6" beyond the hub. I'm thinking it may be to enable moving the hub out to give the tractor a wider footprint.

What's the benefit and cost of moving the wheels out (other than the obvious benefit that I wouldn't be tipping it over as often)?

Cheers!
-Shaun-

YOU nailed it, that is the main reason -stability!. One reason to leave them in would be due to the width of crops, a narrow set would allow a tractor to go up and back through the crops easier, but the first thing I would do is spread that ol' girl out !!!

Should be no cost, loosen the bolt/nut and pull it out, make sure to place the pin back it!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes it's that way to give it a wider foot print and yes it helps from rolling it.

No cost if you do it yourself, loosen the bolt or bolts depending on the type of hub you have and move them out.

In that model there are 3 variations,
B6100E: 2WD Geared
B6100D: 4WD Geared
B6100HST: 4WD Geared

 

[OldeEnglish]

Your thoughts are correct, the wheelbase is adjustable for additional stability if needed. It shouldn't cost you more than an hour and a few beers to accomplish

 

[ShaunBlake]

In that model there are 3 variations,
B6100E: 2WD Geared
B6100D: 4WD Geared
B6100HST: 4WD Geared

Well, since you brought it up, you save me from having to ask you about that. (However, I *hate* it when you read my mind!)

The machine was advertised as a B6100DT; I looked for info before I bought it and Kubota (Website) and TractorData listed the DT as an HST. I knew it was 4WD, and confirmed it was a gear tranny, so decided the seller must have made a mistake. BUT... I've seen an occasional reference to a gear DT and I'm such a nit-picker that I want to get it EXACTLY right, even though it doesn't make any material difference.

I've read that the 'D' just means 4WD, so as long as I don't order parts for a 2WD, it should be moot. Right? or is there more to it?

And thanks for your help!

 

[ShaunBlake]

Your thoughts are correct, the wheelbase is adjustable for additional stability if needed. It shouldn't cost you more than an hour and a few beers to accomplish

Thanks, OE, but... The difficulty I'm having with your advice is that I only drink Guinness, and AFAIK, there is no way to equate Guinness to beer, so I prolly would only need one Guinness on hand, but... <sigh>

 

[ShaunBlake]

YOU nailed it, that is the main reason -stability!. One reason to leave them in would be due to the width of crops, a narrow set would allow a tractor to go up and back through the crops easier, but the first thing I would do is spread that ol' girl out !!!

Should be no cost, loosen the bolt/nut and pull it out, make sure to place the pin back it!

Well, it would have been great if I had asked before now. First time on it, "just getting to know it", drove down to get some 30" logs that are in the low area I want to fill. Approached on a diagonal, and the downhill tire sank almost to the axel in a soft spot. It VERY NEARLY went all the way over, and I had a heck of a time getting it out (without the firewood), using the bucket and the 4WD.

My yard is not extremely hilly for north Atlanta, yet requires care in navigating up and down (and especially around).

I'm glad I noticed those shafts and wondered about moving the hubs. Thank you VERY MUCH for your wise counsel!

 

[D2Cat]

ShaunBlake, with the landscape you describe especially, you should get in the habit of keeping your loader bucket as low as possible. If you're bucket is 10-12" off the ground (and in the rolled back position) and you start into a situation where you feel your tractor is out of control you can drop the bucket instantly and gain stability.

If you're unsure of the area or your ability to navigate, keep your hand of the control lever for a faster response.

 

[ShaunBlake]

ShaunBlake, with the landscape you describe especially, you should get in the habit of keeping your loader bucket as low as possible. If you're bucket is 10-12" off the ground (and in the rolled back position) and you start into a situation where you feel your tractor is out of control you can drop the bucket instantly and gain stability.

If you're unsure of the area or your ability to navigate, keep your hand of the control lever for a faster response.

Thanks for the great advice, D2. Much appreciated! Indeed I do carry the bucket as low as possible, especially when traversing on a diagonal. And I can only make left turns because my right hand is glued to the hydraulics!

Unfortunately, it's a very small lot, with lots of trees and shrubs so my angle of attack is limited, and ample rainfall at the end of the year has created some very soft areas. (I've "discovered" that what seemed to be firm ground is sometimes deposits of leaves, twigs, and ivy that I can't dig through but the Kubota's little front tire sinks right into.)

 

[Bill Pitman]

Okay, I should be scouring the forum, and wait for the manuals to be delivered from the 'Messy' outfit... but for the same reason I don't buy green bananas:

My newly-acquired B6100 (is it a 'D', or a 'DT'? I am currently *totally confused*!) has rear axle shafts that stick out about 6" beyond the hub. I'm thinking it may be to enable moving the hub out to give the tractor a wider footprint.

What's the benefit and cost of moving the wheels out (other than the obvious benefit that I wouldn't be tipping it over as often)?

Cheers!
-Shaun-

I don't know if this is right or not.... But I think "DT" means dual traction,
I could be wrong, but it makes sense to me!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes D and DT in this case mean the same thing, Dual traction or 4wd.
And E model would mean 2WD.

If it were a HST model and they made it in both the 2wd and 4wd (which they didn't) it would be a HSTD for 4wd and HSTE for 2wd.

Clear as mud??? Good!

 

[OldeEnglish]

Please correct me if I'm wrong.... When I installed replacement hubs on my b7100, it seemed to me they allowed for a few extra inches to widen the wheelbase compared to the stock ones. If one needed that extra width, I thought that was quite handy. Make sure you tighten the set bolt of the hubs really well and check them quite often. I like the replacements much better than the stock hubs, except the chinese studs.

 

[ShaunRH]

Yeah, DT means 4WD but it's also shorthand for gear drive as they list HST units as Wolfman previously described.

To be honest, I don't see many Kubota's in 2WD. I've never seen a new one on a dealer lot. 4WD always seemed to be the hallmark of a Kubota, that and always diesel.

Every 2WD model I've ever seen from Orange K was pretty old. I know they still make them, I just equate it to snipe hunting... LOL!