HYDRAULINK Top Link

[UnionMan]

What are everyone's thoughts on the "HYDRAULINK" product. I've found them online right at $200. I stumbled onto them when looking for a longer top link. I recently purchased and installed the PAT's quick hitch and notice I need a longer top link to gain longer movement to allow proper use of some implements. I do not have rear hydraulics and thought this might be a good option. Has anyone purchase this product and like it? Also this will be for a L3800.

UnionMan

 

[RIDETOEAT]

They look like they would be a quick adjust fix for a lot of screwing around "pun intended" but I have always been concerned about bleed through, maybe someone will be able to testify about that possible issue. $200 sounds like a sale price I cannot find, where did you come across that if I can ask !!

 

[UnionMan]

Surplus Center has it for $185 with shipping $200

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...rs/HYDRAULINK-CATEGORY-1-TOPLINK-9-7960-1.axd

ASC has it for $226

http://www.agrisupply.com/hydraulink-cat-self-contained-top-link/p/76380/

 

[RIDETOEAT]

I may jump on that and try one if no one has a good reason not to...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I may jump on that and try one if no one has a good reason not to...

It is not solid, the rod moves on it's own some. Air compresses, pretty simple. If you need a fixed setting, it is not for you. Watch the video and you can see the rod moving in and out. Works for some people, not for others, all depends on you and your circumstances and just what it is that you want-need done.

It should not be compared to a hydraulic controlled top link.

 

[philztoy]

I just ordered one and am curious too. I am tired of the screwing around (whoever said that lol). My manual ones always tend to get hard to adjust and sometimes bent after awhile. Surplus city seems to have the cheapest price. Amazon has them for 225 ish but no prime shipping.

I thought I would try it with a tiller and see if it cuts down on vibration.

The adjust-ability on the video looks pretty nice.

How hard is it to plum in rear hydraulic outlets? Some of my tractors have one rear one has two. They all have three points. I usually run the rears up to the front for blade angling and grapple bucketing. But I would like to ad another so I can use a hydraulic top link at the same time. But, thus far my experience in hydraulics is fixing broken hoses. I have never plummed anything. Most of the tractors have loader circuits. Is there a hydraulic distribution box that you can plug in to?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just ordered one and am curious too. I am tired of the screwing around (whoever said that lol). My manual ones always tend to get hard to adjust and sometimes bent after awhile. Surplus city seems to have the cheapest price. Amazon has them for 225 ish but no prime shipping.

I thought I would try it with a tiller and see if it cuts down on vibration.

The adjust-ability on the video looks pretty nice.

How hard is it to plum in rear hydraulic outlets? Some of my tractors have one rear one has two. They all have three points. I usually run the rears up to the front for blade angling and grapple bucketing. But I would like to ad another so I can use a hydraulic top link at the same time. But, thus far my experience in hydraulics is fixing broken hoses. I have never plummed anything. Most of the tractors have loader circuits. Is there a hydraulic distribution box that you can plug in to?

Phil,
I think you need to go reread the parts description for the part you bought, there is no remote hook up with this "Hydraulic" top link, because it's not hydraulic.

 

[philztoy]

Phil,
I think you need to go reread the parts description for the part you bought, there is no remote hook up with this "Hydraulic" top link, because it's not hydraulic.

Always good to remind me for sure but on this one I understand that this is just an expensive manual link substitute. My plan is to use that Hydraulink on one of my tractors without hydraulic hook up with a rototiller just to see how well it works and dampens vibration (or maybe on the new cab tractor to reduce vibration) It looks pretty nice and user friendly for a manual link. Albeit it is a $200 link replacing a $30 screwlink, so I don't know if it will be worth it or if the hydraulic valve adjustment will hold up. But I was curious.

I also bought a couple of Hydraulic top links that I want to do some extra plumgbing to plumb in so I could use the clamp buckets on the front but have hydraulic capabilities in the back. So maybe another set of outlets on the loader panel midway would be nice. Specifically, I put a slope mower on the back of my Kubota L3830 and hooked it up to the loader hydraulic unit for x-y axis manipulation of the flail mower. That works great but the loader is off the tractor. So I was hoping to put some hydraulic outlets on the back of that one at some point. So I can keep the loader on it.

I have two Deeres that have one set of rear hydraulics and I have hoses to the front for front implements. I wouldn't mind having a couple more outlets on the rear for a hydraulic top link or blade angling or the like.

I guess depending on how you look at it I am trying to be more efficient or just being plain lazy because I don't like to change implements and attachments. I am probably more guilty of the latter.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Always good to remind me for sure but on this one I understand that this is just an expensive manual link substitute. My plan is to use that Hydraulink on one of my tractors without hydraulic hook up with a rototiller just to see how well it works and dampens vibration (or maybe on the new cab tractor to reduce vibration) It looks pretty nice and user friendly for a manual link. Albeit it is a $200 link replacing a $30 screwlink, so I don't know if it will be worth it or if the hydraulic valve adjustment will hold up. But I was curious.

I apologize, and misunderstood, I thought you were saying that you needed the rear remote added for this.
I think the Idea is great and should dampen the vibrations for you, hope to here how it works.

 

[ShaunRH]

Reminds me of an air shock.

I'm looking at making an electric version of a standard screw drive one... but that air over hydraulic one looks interesting as well.

 

[ShaunBlake]

Reminds me of an air shock.

I'm looking at making an electric version of a standard screw drive one... but that air over hydraulic one looks interesting as well.

Hmmm... Electric, now that's an idea! I don't need the power of hydraulic, the strength of the typical top link's screw threads would be adequate. AND I have "plenty" of spare electric, and NO spare hydraulic.

I'm not very creative, so I'll probably still be noodling on it when you've finished whatever you invent to please post!

 

[ShaunRH]

Not much inventing to do, just some fabrication. They are called linear actuators:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-02-STROKE...301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c92840e5

There's all kinds of types and sizes, some can handle thousands of pounds of force. The issue is either making ends to fit existing rod shafts or modifying the ends on the existing shaft. They are actually more precise than hydraulics, but usually tractors don't need that kind of precision.

I want a matching set to handle both top and side links (each side!) so 3 in all, and have a joystick controller to handle them. I'm still looking for the exact right ones, but the ones I've found so far that fit the bill are really expensive, almost as much as hydraulics.

I also have to come up with some kind of damping/limiting system so that it doesn't get damaged in case the ground does something unexpected... okay, they operator does something stupid, but if you don't blame the ground for something, you aren't farming/ranching right!

 

[philztoy]

Re: HYDRAULINK Top Link report

So the hydraulink was delivered yesterday and I installed in on my 3 point this morning with a 7 foot back blade on the back of my tractor and plowed a little snow with it on.

General impression is that I liked the adjustability and I think the dampening helped (granted not a lot of bumps on an asphalt driveway). It seemed like there was less shock back into the tractor while dragging the blade around.

I couldn't crack the valve with my fingers. So I had to employ an expandable pair of pliers the first time. I found that annoying. Then after cracking it I couldn't get the rod to pull out the first time. But with the screw adjustment i got it on the tractor and raising and lowering the implement pulled the adjustment rod in and out. It really was easy to adjust and faster than a screw type top link. I did like that part.

I only hand tightened the needle valve and it seemed to do a self adjust at one point. But after I re-tightened it it seemed to hold.

I am kind of looking forward to using it with a tiller to see how much it dampens in my rocky ground. It might end up as a permanent fixture on my dedicated tiller tractors if it dampens well (or even a little).

 

[RIDETOEAT]

Not much inventing to do, just some fabrication. They are called linear actuators:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-02-STROKE...301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c92840e5

There's all kinds of types and sizes, some can handle thousands of pounds of force. The issue is either making ends to fit existing rod shafts or modifying the ends on the existing shaft. They are actually more precise than hydraulics, but usually tractors don't need that kind of precision.

I want a matching set to handle both top and side links (each side!) so 3 in all, and have a joystick controller to handle them. I'm still looking for the exact right ones, but the ones I've found so far that fit the bill are really expensive, almost as much as hydraulics.

I also have to come up with some kind of damping/limiting system so that it doesn't get damaged in case the ground does something unexpected... okay, they operator does something stupid, but if you don't blame the ground for something, you aren't farming/ranching right!

I like the concept but have found these to be fairly lite duty in other applications. I am not sure what pound capacity is appropriate but that one at 500 lbs capacity sure seems way too light duty for a 3 point or blade angling application.

 

[ShaunRH]

I like the concept but have found these to be fairly lite duty in other applications. I am not sure what pound capacity is appropriate but that one at 500 lbs capacity sure seems way too light duty for a 3 point or blade angling application.

That's just one I had on my quick link. These things can be had at over 1,000lbs of force with 1+ inch shafts, so more than strong enough to handle top link activities. I would have to fab up a buffer mechanism to deal with sudden shocks or operator screw ups, but it should work. Again, those beefy units are pretty much as expensive as hydraulics so you have to weigh those options.

 

[ShaunRH]

Re: HYDRAULINK Top Link report

So the hydraulink was delivered yesterday and I installed in on my 3 point this morning with a 7 foot back blade on the back of my tractor and plowed a little snow with it on.

General impression is that I liked the adjustability and I think the dampening helped (granted not a lot of bumps on an asphalt driveway). It seemed like there was less shock back into the tractor while dragging the blade around.

I couldn't crack the valve with my fingers. So I had to employ an expandable pair of pliers the first time. I found that annoying. Then after cracking it I couldn't get the rod to pull out the first time. But with the screw adjustment i got it on the tractor and raising and lowering the implement pulled the adjustment rod in and out. It really was easy to adjust and faster than a screw type top link. I did like that part.

I only hand tightened the needle valve and it seemed to do a self adjust at one point. But after I re-tightened it it seemed to hold.

I am kind of looking forward to using it with a tiller to see how much it dampens in my rocky ground. It might end up as a permanent fixture on my dedicated tiller tractors if it dampens well (or even a little).

I was wondering if a finger tight needle valve would be strong enough to hold the pressures, now we know! Thanks for testing the critter out. Let us know how it holds up and works. It's an interesting idea to say the least!

 

[philztoy]

Re: HYDRAULINK Top Link report

I was wondering if a finger tight needle valve would be strong enough to hold the pressures, now we know! Thanks for testing the critter out. Let us know how it holds up and works. It's an interesting idea to say the least!

I agree. Needle valves (if that is what it is) have never been very robust. It did hold finger tight the second time for sure. I might have limp wristed it the first time not sure. I hated having to crack it with pliers to open it right out of the box. That worried that the valve might have been over tightened at the factory.

I like the idea enough to have ordered a couple more so I will throuw those on other tractors and see how they hold up dragging things around.

It is an expensive link for non-hydraulic. Apparently, I think it is worth the money since I bought more. Although, I haven't really convinced myself it was a good investment until we see how they hold up.

Not much I can do to test it right now in the snow. I might try a box scraper on some frozen paths and see how it holds up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

linear actuators:
I want a matching set to handle both top and side links (each side!) so 3 in all, and have a joystick controller to handle them. I'm still looking for the exact right ones, but the ones I've found so far that fit the bill are really expensive, almost as much as hydraulics.

I also have to come up with some kind of damping/limiting system so that it doesn't get damaged in case the ground does something unexpected... okay, they operator does something stupid, but if you don't blame the ground for something, you aren't farming/ranching right!

I'm sorry I completely disagree, It will not work, Period!

Top links are under extreme force and load, you will not find a linear actuator that will withstand anywhere near the force needed and no where near the strength of a hydraulic cylinder, or even a simple threaded top link.
Best I could find is 1000lbs of lift or pull, they don't even list shock strength.
I don't think I've even seen a linear actuator that was made out of steel, all the ones I've seen are aluminum.
With the force being transmitted to a gear set, it would fail in a very quick hurry.

 

[ShaunRH]

I'm sorry I completely disagree, It will not work, Period!

Top links are under extreme force and load, you will not find a linear actuator that will withstand anywhere near the force needed and no where near the strength of a hydraulic cylinder, or even a simple threaded top link.
Best I could find is 1000lbs of lift or pull, they don't even list shock strength.
I don't think I've even seen a linear actuator that was made out of steel, all the ones I've seen are aluminum.
With the force being transmitted to a gear set, it would fail in a very quick hurry.

Well, the shock strength was my concern with them which is why I haven't done anything with it at this point as my designs for a shock reduction system were so complex that it was looking more like a new style of top link like that Hydralink thing.

The best design I have so far is an electrically driven standard screw top link and until I get the lathe I have access to up and running, it's not happening.

You can have linear actuators built custom at over 1000lbs but they are very expensive, like I said, hydraulics would be as much or cheaper at that point so, I'm still just looking into it.

 

[philztoy]

Re: HYDRAULINK Top Link further report

And... back to the hydraulink top link......

I put the link on the back of my tractor and hooked up to a 6' brush hog.

Cold temperatures up here, so I guess this is the cold temperature test. I set it on the minimum length. The brush hog linkages always have play and I still haven't figured out the best way to raise the rear end.

I had the forks on the tractor and was moving my crawler loader bucket and parts around. At first the link picked up the rear of the hog nicely. After moving some parts of tractors around I noticed i was dragging the brush hog.

So I tried to adjust it again and tightened the valve a little tighter. It picked it up ... barely. When I took it back to the barn. I found a fresh screw link for this implement and put it at minimum and hooked up the brush hog.

It would have been interesting to tow the working brush hog to see if the vibrations were dampened. But between the hydraulic valve, the pneumatic dampening and the somewhat light duty nature of the hydraulink... It didn't make a good brush hog hook up. I am going to put a real hydraulic link on the back of that tractor...but I bought the wrong one it seems.

And back to electronic linear actuators. There is a linear actuator I have seen that has a planetary type gear set. I have no idea how much it costs, but it seems that design might be robust enough to take a look at. Personally I am sticking with hydraulics. I already break too many expensive tractor parts to hang one of those on the back of a three point arm.

I suppose you could always use the hydraulink as a dampener... (shameless attempt to link the two )