Add hyd top link to L185

[bharleyh]

I have a L185 that I made a dump bucket for the 3 point lift. Basically it's a 4 ft wide box with a latch that gravity dumps the dirt. I've gotten tired of reaching around to release the latch and want to install a hydraulic top link to dump the bucket. I can machine a manifold block to replace the cover by the 3 point lift but after that I'm lost. How can I route the hoses to the valve then to the top link? What kind of valve do I need? I'm thinking I need a 2 spool valve with power beyond to be able to lift the 3 point and dump the bucket at the same time. I have no experience at all with hydraulics so any pictures, drawings, or diagrams would be most helpful. Thank you for any help you can give me.

 

[coachgeo]

I have a L185 that I made a dump bucket for the 3 point lift. Basically it's a 4 ft wide box with a latch that gravity dumps the dirt. I've gotten tired of reaching around to release the latch and want to install a hydraulic top link to dump the bucket. I can machine a manifold block to replace the cover by the 3 point lift but after that I'm lost. How can I route the hoses to the valve then to the top link? What kind of valve do I need? I'm thinking I need a 2 spool valve with power beyond to be able to lift the 3 point and dump the bucket at the same time. I have no experience at all with hydraulics so any pictures, drawings, or diagrams would be most helpful. Thank you for any help you can give me.

Don't know which would be cheaper/less complicated but you could instead of hydraulic use a ATV winch for tilting bucket with solid link.

Do you use a cable to release your latch? Would think you could mount the pull up closer to you so you don't have to turn and reach out as much' if at all. Wonder if a bendex from a starter could kick your latch out?

 

[bharleyh]

I welcome your thoughts on this and thank you for your time. What I really need is a controlled tipping of the bucket. In the attachment you can see how close the solid frame hitch is to the bucket. In an uncontrolled gravity dump the bottom of the bucket bangs into the hitch. As it is now I have to lower the 3 point so the edge of the bucket hits the dirt then raise the 3 point up to finish dumping.
As you can see in the attachments I've tried to get the release handle up where i can get to it. But with my old shoulder injury it still becomes a problem.
In the line drawing you can see what I'm planning. I'm going to go with lower lift arms that are 27" pin to pin. The arms on the Kubota are now 23" pin to pin which leaves me with little clearance between the hitch and tires. Attaching the top link directly to the top of the bucket will allow me to eliminate the T section holding the latch.
I think I've found a cylinder (on the line drawing) and a single spool with power beyond (Surplus Center P/N 9-7861) and I'm pretty sure I can machine a diverter block. What gets me is not knowing if these parts will do the job or how to route the hoses before spending a bunch of money.
Thanks again for you help.

 

[D2Cat]

Since North Idaho Wolfman hasn't jumped on here to give you some insight I would suggest to send him an IM. He KNOWS the answer!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You don't need to use a valve with PB, you can use a normal open center valve for that operation.
Also don't need a diverter block, just break the feed line for the 3 point and put the new valve inline.

 

[D2Cat]

Now, see how easy that was?

I don't know how he knows so much, but it is nice he shares that wealth of knowledge with us all! Thanks Wolfman.

 

[bharleyh]

Thanks for the help guys. I've been doing a lot of studying the last couple of days and there is one sure way and one possibility to tie into the high pressure line.
The sure way is like North Idaho Wolfman said; split the high pressure line and go to and from the valve. The attachment shows the (other possibility) cover on the 3 point hydraulics and it looks like there may be a port on the front. I'll have to wait until I can get out to my cabin at the end of January to check that out. I need to verify some measurements on the bucket before I can begin to modify it anyway.
I'll update this thread when I get things figured out. Thanks again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That model is fairly easy to tap into the hydraulics, the cover with 4 bolts ac be removed and replaced with a block to directly tap into the pressure of the system, in and out and your done.
Trying to purchase the block is not easy but if you can machine it, then you've got it made!

Part#13 is the part that need replaced:

That block has a path that allows fluid to flow in and out.

New block should have 2 threaded ports for new in and out.

 

[D2Cat]

This is the valve on an L305. Maybe yours is similar.

 

[ShaunRH]

NIWolfman... aren't those end caps on that top block the taps for that flow? They look like they have allen screws on them from those angles.

I think there is a screw in for them that blocks the flow between the channel and diverts it out to the external hydraulics. Or it looks very similar to a system I have worked on that did that. It looks very similar to a power beyond interface.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Aren't those end caps on that top block the taps for that flow? They look like they have allen screws on them from those angles.

There is only one plug (end cap), it is there from when they cross drill horizontally to connect the two vertical port holes, you could either drill from the other end and block the center cross over to get it to work, but I'm not a fan of messing with cast like that, too easy for the whole thing to go bad!

 

[bharleyh]

Wow, I'm learning a lot on these Orange Tractor Talks forums. The attached picture is from another thread and it shows how Kubota ties into the hydraulic system.
I'm thinking I'm going to make a block like the one D2Cat showed. I spent some time as a machinist/toolmaker and it doesn't look that difficult. I've seen more pics of this block on other forums. It's just four bolt holes and two threaded holes in a block of aluminum. I just have to get out to my tractor (130 miles away) to pull the dimensions. With Christmas visitors and my rotating days off I won't be able to do that until the last weekend in January.
I would rather make the block than splice into the high pressure line. If I screw up I can remake the block or put the original cap back on. Screw up the HP line splice and I'm down until I can get another line. I have mountains of dirt to move and can't afford down time.
Thanks again to everyone that has showed interest in my project. NI Wolfman your attachments are invaluable, I learn from each post.

 

[olthumpa]

UUUUUGH You stole my pic.

Glad it was helpful. That is what we are here for.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would rather make the block than splice into the high pressure line. If I screw up I can remake the block or put the original cap back on.

That is the exact reason I like the block too!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

UUUUUGH You stole my pic.

Glad it was helpful. That is what we are here for.

Yes I did steal your pic!
Credit for pic goes to Olthumpa!
Hey speaking of that did you find the block you needed?

 

[olthumpa]

Yes I did steal your pic!
Credit for pic goes to Olthumpa!
Hey speaking of that did you find the block you needed?

Ho credit needed.

I do not remember what block you are referring to?
Either I got it, put it on and forgot about it.
Gave up on finding one.
Or just simply forgot about it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ho credit needed.

Is that special Christmas credit? HO HO HO credit?

 

[olthumpa]

Is that special Christmas credit? HO HO HO credit?

Fat fingers! It is febrgux

 

[bharleyh]

UPDATE: I've got my new lower lift arms installed and took some pics of the part that I'm going to replace. It's much smaller than I remembered it being, it's only 3 1/4" on the long side. I thought I was ready to start machining the adapter block but I realized I didn't take dimensions matching where the hydraulic fittings need to be. I'll have to take the part off to get the dimensions from the mating surfaces.
I've got a prelimenary drawing done. I don't have the hydraulic port dimensions so don't use this drawing yet. I'll post another drawing when I get all the dimensions nailed down so someone else can make one if they want.
I'll be out to the cabin on the week end of 3-13 through 3-15 and will get the dimensions then.
Sorry this is taking so long but life keeps getting in the way and I have to set priorities.

 

[bharleyh]

I went out to the desert property and pulled the part I'm going to replace with the adapter block I'm going to make. I got some pics of the part and where it was mounted. I also made a drawing taking the dimensions off the casting. You're welcome to use the drawing but know that I have not made the adapter yet and the drawing is unproven. I used a 6 inch dial caliper and checked the dimensions all the ways I could without inspection equipment. My dimensions are in decimal inches and the part was made to millimeter dimensions. I think that is why some of the dimensions seem a little odd.
I'll update this thread when I get the block made and check the fit.