Just a word of caution. Be nice to your tractor. Bent the dipper piston rod while excavating a small oak stump with my BH75 backhoe a while back. Initially figured that I'd be looking at replacing just the rod and a new seal kit. Discovered that the rod, if you could buy one, was $ 395 and the kit was just over $ 100. Unfortunately the dipper cylinder on my hoe was replaced with an upgraded model and parts were no longer available. That meant I was now on the hook for just under $ 900 for the replacement cylinder assy. I know that the cost of the parts is always more that the cost of a complete unit. Just hard to accept that the cost of one cylinder is worth 1/6 the cost of the entire hoe attachment.
OEM replacement costs
- Thread starter rwwhite47
- Start date
Repairing cylinders is a problem. I have had rods bent and have always ended up buying a new cylinder. You can have your local hydraulics shop cut off the pin boss and attach it to a new rod and machine the other end for the retainer. My experience has been that this costs about the same as the oem rod. Both ways proved to be little enough less than a new cylinder to to just buy the cylinder. I have had people tell me that cylinders that aren't to badly bent can be straightened. I'm sure others here can speak to that.
I thought about having a new rod fabricated at a local hydraulic shop, but was then concerned that the seals might not be available either, so I sprang for the new cylinder. My real gripe was about the cost of the cylinder. I could maybe see $ 300- 400. Just felt that $ 900 was a little over the top.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
When it come to cylinder replacements, look here:
http://www.baileynet.com/
They can custom make a cylinder, and usually for much cheaper than others.
http://www.baileynet.com/
They can custom make a cylinder, and usually for much cheaper than others.
If you really want to kick yourself in the ass, you could have hired a guy to grind out the stump for about $150-$200 bucks and save some money plus broken equipment.
I'm not real fond of digging out stumps unless you have a heft excavator. Anything small ends up broken.
I'm not real fond of digging out stumps unless you have a heft excavator. Anything small ends up broken.
Hi All,
when I cut the trees I clean around the bottom of the trunk, possibly wash by garden hose and cut around the trunk aiming my chainsaw bar in the ground.
Then push the tree over.
This way I end up with hole in the ground and no stump.
This is not always possible on the hills, but works most of the time.
Regards Frank
when I cut the trees I clean around the bottom of the trunk, possibly wash by garden hose and cut around the trunk aiming my chainsaw bar in the ground.
Then push the tree over.
This way I end up with hole in the ground and no stump.
This is not always possible on the hills, but works most of the time.
Regards Frank
That sounds good on paper frank but round my neck of the woods, you would be eating up chains like the were candy, I have cut trees like you say and found rocks the size of my fist, where they aint suppose ta be,,lol... but you right that is a good way of doing it
Cutting in dirt-sawzall and a good blade. Dirt doesent bother it. I made a root ripper tooth for a small backhoe, works well. Either way it is slow going.
Converting an aftermarket cylinder can sometimes work, but they are somewhat oddball. Hard to find one suitable
Converting an aftermarket cylinder can sometimes work, but they are somewhat oddball. Hard to find one suitable
A local hydraulic shop, depending on their prices, is a much more economical way to go. A friend bent both bucket cylinders on his JD 5003. JD wanted a fortune (like you experienced from Kubota), and our local shop, just around the corner from the JD dealer, made new rods for about 1/2 the price.
Like many things, you don't pay for the materials, you pay for the uniqueness and the ability for that product to enable you to make money. Specialty tools are a good example. Kubota, JD, and every other manufacturer of tractor charges those prices because you are willing to pay for them.
Like many things, you don't pay for the materials, you pay for the uniqueness and the ability for that product to enable you to make money. Specialty tools are a good example. Kubota, JD, and every other manufacturer of tractor charges those prices because you are willing to pay for them.
Backfire1
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L3800 HST w/ loader, Land Pride 72 in. FM, 8 Ft Disk, 6 Ft blade, 6 Ft rake,
I second the saw saw. Never ever put your chain saw threw any kind of dirt or it will ruin the bar and chain. Even dirt covered wood will destroy a brand new chain. Saw Zaw all the way for roots and anything below ground. Good luck to all.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
One tool comes to mind for cutting stumps!
Carbide chain!
They work like a charm!
Doesn't care about rocks, dirt or tree!
Carbide chain!
They work like a charm!
Doesn't care about rocks, dirt or tree!
You guys are probably cutting down trees the diameter of your house, but few that I cut down are larger then 2' diameter.
I cut the tree off about 20-22" above the ground. When the tree is clear out of the way I take a stick or claw hammer and remove all material right next to the stump about 3" deep. Then stay about 1" above any earth, rock, etc and plunge the saw towards the center pointing down at 30-45 degrees. Go completely around and remove.
Now you have very little material above ground. You won't break a mower blade or bust a tire if you run over the little edge. You can fill the divot with old motor oil, diesel and let it soak, but the best is to drill a few hole about 6"-8" deep and then fill them. A few doses of good soaking material then dump a bag of charcoal briquettes on and light it up. Total cost about $6.
If I use my hoe, first dig as deep as possible with my trencher on four sides, then peel it out with the hoe. Shake off the dirt and fill in the hole. Much less stress on machinery.
I cut the tree off about 20-22" above the ground. When the tree is clear out of the way I take a stick or claw hammer and remove all material right next to the stump about 3" deep. Then stay about 1" above any earth, rock, etc and plunge the saw towards the center pointing down at 30-45 degrees. Go completely around and remove.
Now you have very little material above ground. You won't break a mower blade or bust a tire if you run over the little edge. You can fill the divot with old motor oil, diesel and let it soak, but the best is to drill a few hole about 6"-8" deep and then fill them. A few doses of good soaking material then dump a bag of charcoal briquettes on and light it up. Total cost about $6.
If I use my hoe, first dig as deep as possible with my trencher on four sides, then peel it out with the hoe. Shake off the dirt and fill in the hole. Much less stress on machinery.
Last edited:
coachgeo
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L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Once removed..... (this 2" diameter tree) does not covering the stump area say in 3' or more diameter with something that does not allow sunlight to penetrate.... Keep covered for a year or so. Would this not kill the tree's roots.
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Well here I am stupid me... quoting my own post
Appears I'm about 1/4 right. My concern was the environment using old oil etc. but in further thought... it all burns away.. except what escapes into the air.... hmmm?? am not a complete environut and admit on occasion such a thing not to bad.
Here is 4 ways from Wiki. Salt looks interesting
http://www.wikihow.com/Kill-a-Tree-Stump
Yes, I had a neighbor dump Epson salt in the holes. He said to worked, but I don't know how long it takes.
I also have a small stump grinder with a 13 HP engine that will remove anything I need. It's just a pain to load and move so I wait until I have 3 or 4 and then get it out.
I also have a small stump grinder with a 13 HP engine that will remove anything I need. It's just a pain to load and move so I wait until I have 3 or 4 and then get it out.
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Those small stump grinders are nice
but they sure take the man out of ya quick I did 130+ with one of those small ones. Could barely move by Sunday nightSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Daren, you're correct about those stump grinders. I have a neighbor who want me to grind about 20 stumps. I do a lot for him, but I'm not grinding stumps. Somehow my cutters got dull and I can't find the set I had sharpened!
Hi All,
Cutting tree down near the same level as the ground, aiming the end of bar down towards centre of the tree does not damage my chain or bar.
I have one Chinese saw, especially for this job, cost $80 on line and when it is near repair I buy new one.
There is a chain with tungsten tip for this type of jobs as well.
I did not have need to buy one.
I don’t need outside help, I am self sufficient, all a need is more time to get the job done my way.
Good luck, regards Frank
Cutting tree down near the same level as the ground, aiming the end of bar down towards centre of the tree does not damage my chain or bar.
I have one Chinese saw, especially for this job, cost $80 on line and when it is near repair I buy new one.
There is a chain with tungsten tip for this type of jobs as well.
I did not have need to buy one.
I don’t need outside help, I am self sufficient, all a need is more time to get the job done my way.
Good luck, regards Frank
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
I agree with that one. Neighbor wanted me to go over and do a couple in his yard after I had spent all weekend in mine. Showed him how to use it, and said he could do his own!! the only condition was to run it up the ramp into the back of the truck when he got done so I could return it to hd. Should have had him ride in to town with me too!!! I was so spent by the time i got into town, when i rolled it down the ramp, it dragged me across the parking lot. Had to go inside and get the rental person to drag it out of the parking lot for me. No more doing it myself after that.
I found a guy in town that will come out and do them for 25$ to 50$ depending on the size. Has a minimum price to come out, so I'll get with the neighbor and between the two of us we'll usually have enough to grind to meet it. Any thing smaller then 12" will get a burn barrel, accelerant, and bag of charcoal after it's rotted a bit.