B7100D Hydraulic Problems and then some...

[Steve NC]

Olde, I was reading your posts and was wondering if you have checked the gear oil for your tractor. Depending on the oil in the rear end it could be part of your problem. It might be time to service it if you havent already. There are about 3 or 4 drains to help remove the gear oil. The filter/screen is attached to the bolt that holds the bottom line coming from the hydro pump to the transmission. If somebody changed the gear oil to a thicker 85w-140 to boost line pressure the pump could be having trouble pumping it in the cold weather. The screen could be full of trash as well. Might be a good idea to change the oil and clean the screen just to be safe. I have had better luck with the full synthetic gear oils during the winter flowing easier than the standard gear oil.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Did you test the system and find out what kind of pressure you have. that will give you a good base to start from.

 

[OldeEnglish]

Steve, that's a very good point and may have something to do with it, thank you for your input. I changed the hydraulic fluid last summer along with a brand new screen filter. I used UDT fluid and after some research it sounds like your right, I should have used synthetic and will change it over. Anyone have a good suggestion on what exactly I should use?

The hydraulic lines to my plow are shot/leaking and my angle cylinders are leaking now. I ordered new lines and repair kits so they should be here soon. I will change the fluid out when I do the repairs and see if that makes a difference. The repair kits were $45 a piece

 

[OldeEnglish]

Did you test the system and find out what kind of pressure you have. that will give you a good base to start from.

I did not Wolfman, although I did order a gauge with my hoses and will put a test on it when i get it. This may be a stupid question but should I T that into a line and pressurize it or dead end it? I'm guessing a T....

 

[Steve NC]

I have Amsoil severe gear oil 75w110 to put in mine when I finish my rebuild of the engine this winter. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-110/?code=SVTQT-EA But if you have leaks I would stress to that you repair those first before if you decide to use this oil. At almost $17 a quart retail, it gets expensive quick.

 

[OldeEnglish]

I have Amsoil severe gear oil 75w110 to put in mine when I finish my rebuild of the engine this winter. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-110/?code=SVTQT-EA But if you have leaks I would stress to that you repair those first before if you decide to use this oil. At almost $17 a quart retail, it gets expensive quick.

They make good a good product but damm its pricy. Fixing the leaks was my thoughts exactly before filling with expensive synthetic! Who knows, adding synthetic may find some new leaks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I did not Wolfman, although I did order a gauge with my hoses and will put a test on it when i get it. This may be a stupid question but should I T that into a line and pressurize it or dead end it? I'm guessing a T....

Yes tee it in a pressure line no dead heading!

 

[OldeEnglish]

Yes tee it in a pressure line no dead heading!

Thank you very much Wolfman, I hate asking stupid questions but that how I learn . Everyone on here has been very helpful to me in many ways and I greatly appreciate that.

I'll get all of the leaks fixed and get a pressure reading before I fill with synthetic. Any other recommendations on a good cold weather synthetic fluid besides the $200 AMS oil?

 

[Steve NC]

The Amsoil is pricey, check with any of your local auto parts stores. My local Advance Auto and Autozone sell Valvoine Synpower 75-90 gear oil for about $10 a qt. Could also try walmart but I usually avoid that place as much as possible.

 

[OldeEnglish]

The Amsoil is pricey, check with any of your local auto parts stores. My local Advance Auto and Autozone sell Valvoine Synpower 75-90 gear oil for about $10 a qt. Could also try walmart but I usually avoid that place as much as possible.

Honestly I never knew that gear oil and hydraulic oil is the same thing.

 

[Steve NC]

Honestly I never knew that gear oil and hydraulic oil is the same thing. :confused.
Hydraulic oil usually is thinner 10w to 30w and has anti foaming properties in it. Ya just have to make sure you put the right one in the right place. It can make a mess if the wrong one is used but sometimes the names are interchanged.

 

[OldeEnglish]

My issue definitely has to do with the oil. Today we got our first dose of fluffy 4" of snow that I got to test little orange with. I used my typical startup methods and the 3 pt couldn't lift the blower without a small amount of help. So I went out and plowed up some nice 2' piles of snow and got the tractor nice and warmed up. I threw the PTO in second gear and backed right through the piles.

I was quite impressed on how far it would throw the fluffy snow, a good 20' ! Once the tractor was good and warmed up it didn't have a problem lifting the blower so the lifting problems must be because of the oil I used and cold temps. Lesson learned, you get what you pay for! The blower is still at the max weight limit of the tractor, but I'm happy with its performance all together. If there was a 25-30 HP machine powering it, the blower would be a monster!t

When I started this thread, I was not happy with how the tractor performed on the first storm I got to use it on. Honestly with the last few storms I was about to give up and buy a new one with more power. I'm happy I have all of the kinks worked out because I'm only in this little girl for $5500 with all my attachments. I'll get a new one in the near future but the 7100 is definitally a keeper now.

The ride was bouncy ass hell the first storm, gave me the pucker affect a few times . Getting some new tires and having the rears loaded made a world of a difference, I highly recommend it! No more bouncing at all and I definitely have better traction with the new turf tires.