B7100D Hydraulic Problems and then some...

OldeEnglish

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Jul 13, 2014
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Today was my first chance to test out my tractor and snowblower on this Holliday storm. It was 70 deg here a few days ago so the ground isn't frozen yet making the first few inches straight slush. When I broke the tractor out I had a fresh 8" of heavy wet snow so I figured it would be a good test. Ohhh it was.... and to be quite honest I was disappointed.

My main reason I bought the tractor was to clear my driveway of snow. I got it for a hell of a deal considering how great of shape it was in, still has all of the original stickers everywhere and never stored outside. My father wanted me to get a BX but I couldn't justify spending that kind of money for something just to move snow. I'm second guessing myself now but I know I can get this old girl to chuck some snow, I hope!:eek:


Anyways here are my problems that most focus around my snowblower....

I could not get that Loftness snowblower to even throw a snow ball! In 2 seconds the chute would clog up tighter than a snow cone. I know it's heavy and sticky but I was at least hoping for a slight lob! The inside of the chute needs a good sanding and some sort of lube to smooth it out, I'll try a few things around the house. I may install some rubber blades on the edge of the fan blade, there is a 3/8 gap there and it hardens right up. Would that improve the fan's performance? Now I would think this tractor could power this blower enough to throw slush. My 36" Aireins will throw it, not too far but it throws it.

Not only does it not throw a snow flake, when it gets packed with slush the 3 point can't lift it. When it first happened I thought I blew something, but I think it's too heavy for the little tractor. When it happened I stopped, climed off, worked the handle (nothing), worked it again and gave it one finger strength pull on the link, it worked.

Seeing I couldn't get the blower to work for me I had to use the dozer blade. This old scag could push that heavy snow well as long as I had traction. I like it but the hydraulic movement is wayyyyy too slow. Now I'm thinking I have a hydraulic problem but remember I'm still a green horn with this thing. I changed the filter and hydro fluid when I bought it. Old stuff was still clean with a little milky residue.

My questions are.... Should the hydraulics move this slow, so slow it's almost useless in my book? Is the hydraulic pump on its way out? Could that cause loss of power to the 3 pt lift (it weighs 500lbs dry)? Will replacing pump with larger b8200 pump speed things up and give me some more lift power in the rear? Should I just sell it and go bigger:eek:?

Another reason that makes me think the pump is shot because of my chute rotator. When built it, I calculated everything for a 9 second 180 deg turn. It takes about 20 seconds. I checked my math 100 times over and can't find any mistakes. This is why I don't think it's flowing 3gpm.....
 

Diydave

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Oct 31, 2013
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Coupla thoughts: If you have a square backed chute, on your blower, you can line it with a piece of nylon or poly plastic, makes things slide much smoother. Also, some snows push better than blow. Never put a snow thrower all the way down on the pavement, the bottom stuff tends to cause the jams.

As to the hydraulics acting slowly, some tractors have a speed knob, look between your legs, when seated , to find it. should have directions in raised letters on the valve body. Also, a warm tractor will lift quicker than one at sub freezing temps. Also, find the filter, and/or suction screen, change the former/clean the latter.

Not sure if all this applies to a 7100, just speaking from general experience...
 

85Hokie

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Today was my first chance to test out my tractor and snowblower on this Holliday storm. It was 70 deg here a few days ago so the ground isn't frozen yet making the first few inches straight slush. When I broke the tractor out I had a fresh 8" of heavy wet snow so I figured it would be a good test. Ohhh it was.... and to be quite honest I was disappointed.

My main reason I bought the tractor was to clear my driveway of snow. I got it for a hell of a deal considering how great of shape it was in, still has all of the original stickers everywhere and never stored outside. My father wanted me to get a BX but I couldn't justify spending that kind of money for something just to move snow. I'm second guessing myself now but I know I can get this old girl to chuck some snow, I hope!:eek:


Anyways here are my problems that most focus around my snowblower....

I could not get that Loftness snowblower to even throw a snow ball! In 2 seconds the chute would clog up tighter than a snow cone. I know it's heavy and sticky but I was at least hoping for a slight lob! The inside of the chute needs a good sanding and some sort of lube to smooth it out, I'll try a few things around the house. I may install some rubber blades on the edge of the fan blade, there is a 3/8 gap there and it hardens right up. Would that improve the fan's performance? Now I would think this tractor could power this blower enough to throw slush. My 36" Aireins will throw it, not too far but it throws it.

Not only does it not throw a snow flake, when it gets packed with slush the 3 point can't lift it. When it first happened I thought I blew something, but I think it's too heavy for the little tractor. When it happened I stopped, climed off, worked the handle (nothing), worked it again and gave it one finger strength pull on the link, it worked.

Seeing I couldn't get the blower to work for me I had to use the dozer blade. This old scag could push that heavy snow well as long as I had traction. I like it but the hydraulic movement is wayyyyy too slow. Now I'm thinking I have a hydraulic problem but remember I'm still a green horn with this thing. I changed the filter and hydro fluid when I bought it. Old stuff was still clean with a little milky residue.

My questions are.... Should the hydraulics move this slow, so slow it's almost useless in my book? Is the hydraulic pump on its way out? Could that cause loss of power to the 3 pt lift (it weighs 500lbs dry)? Will replacing pump with larger b8200 pump speed things up and give me some more lift power in the rear? Should I just sell it and go bigger:eek:?

Another reason that makes me think the pump is shot because of my chute rotator. When built it, I calculated everything for a 9 second 180 deg turn. It takes about 20 seconds. I checked my math 100 times over and can't find any mistakes. This is why I don't think it's flowing 3gpm.....
Olde,

I know very little bout them thar snow blowers......looked yours up - does weigh close to the 500# you mentioned..... according to the specs, the 7100 should pick it up fine....empty ! :D

BUT - doesnt your snowblower's HP range something like 14-30 ??? Your HP is maxed at 13.....so - you are little under there....

there is a way to check your PSI pressure ......i see it in my manual......
I would hate for you to get to into the pump and find nothing wrong.....

is the pto at max speed????:)

-happy thanksgiving !:):):)
 

Dwarner

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B7610 HST, Woods 6500
Aug 3, 2012
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I got a great deal on a 3 point woods 64" snow blower. My B7100 lifted it fine when it was dry and the tractor was cold. It blew snow a mile but I had to go very slowly. Once the tractor had heated up it could barely lift it. I sold it and now use a Kubota b2550 front mount blower.
I use cross country ski wax in the chute to help the clogging. It threw the snow from our last storm with no problems.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I'm wondering if your bypassing fluid???
How exactly do you have the rotator plumbed in?
The three point should move very quick, the B7100 had excellent and strong three point lifts.
How fast does it go down?
Does it move faster with no weight?
What speed are you running the PTO? There is three speeds, and what RPM do you have the motor?
 

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
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Thank you everyone for your replies, I hope everyone had a great turkey day! Wolfman, I plumbed the spool in by going from out to in from existing spool to the new one then returning back to the tractor.

I'm hoping the snow throwing problem is just to due with the extremely slushy snow. Had a busy day today with a long ride to my sisters in RI so I haven't had a chance to smooth out that chute. The ski wax sounds like a great idea, I was wondering if anyone has done that!

Also I did try running the blower in 1st and 2nd speed on the PTO, didn't make a difference except it really wanted to bog down in 2nd. I'm about to gout out and give it another shot. I'll look for that PTO nob to speed it up but I don't recall seeing anything like that. I could very well have never noticed it too.
 

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
Jul 13, 2014
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Western, MA
I'm wondering if your bypassing fluid???
How exactly do you have the rotator plumbed in?
The three point should move very quick, the B7100 had excellent and strong three point lifts.
How fast does it go down?
Does it move faster with no weight?
What speed are you running the PTO? There is three speeds, and what RPM do you have the motor?
Just went out and tried it again and I got it to throw some snow for a few minutes but the chute clogged right up again. And man when it clogs up it is packed all the way in there!

Wolfman, the 3 point drops really quick. I did adjust the bolt under the seat this summer to slow down the drop a little bit. Did I do something wrong when I did it? I followed the instructions in the service manual.....It holds the weight up with no problems and doesn't drop at all. The blower will not lift now unless I reach back and give it a helping hand and it's honestly not much effort. This never happened before until I tried using it last night.....I was running the motor at full rpm I do not know the number because of no tach obviously... I even pressed the foot excelerator to rev it to the max and it made no difference in lifting the blower.

I don't believe I have that control nob near the gear shifter..... I have seen a few pics of what I think your talking about in a few threads and I don't have that... I will snap a few pics a little later to make sure I'm not missing anything....

Besides that guys I don't have a clue what's going on....:(
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Last edited:

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
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I would tee a line and put a gauge on it and see what kind of pressure you are getting on the system.

If you don't have a gauge you can get one here for a good price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraul...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item3ceb37fafa

Could also be that the snow blower is just too heavy for the little B. ;)
Thanks Wolfman, I'll see if I can pick up a gauge tomorrow I don't have one that can read that high of a PSI. Where would be the best place to Take a reading? I'm thinking the easiest place will be at the hydraulic block that feeds my spools if I disconnect the lines to and from the spool and T them together with the gauge.... I would think there would be an easier way but I'm sure it requires some sort of kubota gauge tool?

I'm hoping the blower isn't too heavy for this tractor! Would installing a pump from a b8200 increase the power of the hydraulics? Like I said before, I am far from being an expert with hydraulics. If I understand it correctly from other threads I have read, a larger pump will increase the GPM but the working pressure would be the same which can not be adjusted. My educated guess is that the hydraulics would need more working pressure to be able to lift a heavier load, and an increase of GPM would only speed up the movement, am I in the ballpark? :confused:
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Yes just tap into the high pressure line anywhere, it will give you the same reading, as long as you don't have a spool valve that's bleeding off pressure on a PB or extra tank port.

Yes you might gain the potential of more power, more flow will increase the work you can do and the time it takes to do it, but yes you won't gain a whole lot because you can't up the pressure of the system up. ;)
 

kubotasam

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B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
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When I use the rear blower on the back of one of my B7100's I use the mid PTO speed range. It blows much better and clogs lots less. My blower is a Kubota 222A made by a company called McKee. It is really heavy and if I pack mine full of snow my tractor will struggle to lift it like you are experiencing. I drilled another set of holes in the 3 point arms about 3" further out from the original holes that the lift arms pin to. With the lift point closer to the snow blower it changes the leverage and makes it easier to lift when packed with snow.
 

OldeEnglish

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Jul 13, 2014
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When I use the rear blower on the back of one of my B7100's I use the mid PTO speed range. It blows much better and clogs lots less. My blower is a Kubota 222A made by a company called McKee. It is really heavy and if I pack mine full of snow my tractor will struggle to lift it like you are experiencing. I drilled another set of holes in the 3 point arms about 3" further out from the original holes that the lift arms pin to. With the lift point closer to the snow blower it changes the leverage and makes it easier to lift when packed with snow.
Kubotasam, your absolutely right. When I first bought the blower it was originally used on a BX. The blower itself is adjustable between the 3 point mount and the blower itself. When I got it home I squeezed the blower in 4" and greased up the two lower receiver arms in case I had to adjust it again. I think I can get 2" more out of it, maybe 4, but I'll have to cut down the PTO shaft which I was hoping to avoid. I'm not afraid of cutting it but I didn't want to modify the shaft until I tried it out. At this point I really have no other choice and 2" would most likely make a huge difference of the cantilevered weight.

Is there a max angle that the PTO shaft can operate at? I don't know the exact angle it's at now but it's getting up there...
 

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
Jul 13, 2014
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Today I adjusted the snowblower and brought it 2" closer to the tractor. Had to cut down the PTO shaft, but it made a big difference. The tractor can lift the blower now even with snow built up in it. :D

I hit the inside of the chute with a sanding block and smoothed it out. Sprayed it with a heavy coat of silicone (it's all I had kicking around) and backed that thing right into a snowbank. It threw the snow pretty well and the chute didn't clog up. I'll check with a local ski shop and see what they recommend for a good ski wax.

I wasn't able to find a 2500 PSI gauge so I'll have to order one and a few fittings to T it into a few different spots. I want to make sure that everything is getting the pressure that it should be. Once I do that I'll report back with the numbers, I'm hoping the pump is fine instead of dropping more $$$ into this thing. I would rather use that cash on some new tires for it. Why is everything so expensive for these things? I feel for you guys with big tractors, I couldn't imagine what a new set of tires costs for one of them! :eek:
 

kubotasam

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Have you tried my suggestion of running the second PTO speed? It makes a huge difference with mine.
 

OldeEnglish

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Sam,

I did try that the other night when it was snowing. The chute kept getting clogged up and it would just bog the motor right down. It was really heavy and slushy and all of my neighbors were having that problem with their regular blowers. I only used 1st gear in the PTO yesterday when I cut back a few snowbanks that I made. The next storm we get ill give it a try with the 2nd speed, hopefully the next storm will be fluffy snow. The ground wasn't frozen up here yet so it made the heavy snow slushy on the bottom. I also adjusted the skids yesterday and gave the cutting blade an inch gap to the ground, that should help next time.

It seems that everyone does it with these tractors and I haven't read yet that anyone cooked their blower's gear box yet. I was a little hesitant because my blower manual stresses not to use it above 540 rpm, but I cleaned out the relief vent with a needle in case too much pressure gets built up.

I read in a few posts that people didn't care for the gear drive snowblowing, I didn't think that would bother me seeing that I prefer a standard shift in cars, but they are right. Backing into a snowbank is tough with the gear drive once it loses traction. I only have chains on the front at the moment and I didn't want to let the tires spin on the concrete driveway. Once I get some chains on the rear it will definitely make a big difference.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I only have chains on the front at the moment and I didn't want to let the tires spin on the concrete driveway. Once I get some chains on the rear it will definitely make a big difference.
It's really hard on the front end to have chains on it and not the rears! :eek:

Get chains on the rears ASAP! ;)
 

MagKarl

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It's really hard on the front end to have chains on it and not the rears! :eek:

Get chains on the rears ASAP! ;)
How so? If it's slick, then the rears probably won't be much help, but they surely won't be the cause of any bind up.

Seems like nowhere near the load that the front end takes with a full bucket and the rears barely touching.

While I agree it would be best to chain the rears also, I don't see need to panic the guy. What am I missing?:confused:
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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How so? What am I missing?:confused:
The front drive is about 1/4 as strong as the rear drive and if the front tires grab into something with the rears doing nothing to divide out the force it can and will just break front end components.

Most if not all of the Kubota manuals tell you to not use chains on the front period.
 

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
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The front drive is about 1/4 as strong as the rear drive and if the front tires grab into something with the rears doing nothing to divide out the force it can and will just break front end components.

Most if not all of the Kubota manuals tell you to not use chains on the front period.

Good to know Wolfman, I had no idea :rolleyes:. I'll get some chains on the rear ASAP, I have to order a new set. The rear chains that came with the tractor are shot and missing cross links, I have no idea how the other owner even had them installed.

So should I take the chains off the front? I thought I read on here that people have used chains on the fronts of b's....I don't recall anyone saying it destroyed anything except to make sure there is enough clearance so they don't catch on anything......The front tires have about as much grip as some drag slicks. The rears are not far behind that. Yes I need new tires but do I want to spend the money, no lol.
 

OldeEnglish

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B7100D, MMM, B205 Dozer Blade, woods m48, b2910
Jul 13, 2014
768
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Western, MA
Hello everyone, I hope everyone is staying warm in the cold regions. Today I took the tractor out to see if I could scrape off some ice in my driveway. It's getting on the nippy side in New England after a few mild months, about 10 F. Tractor fired right up and the in line block heater had her nice and warm in 30 mins. I always turn the PTO on in First gear at lower Engine RPM to spin the blower and help warm up the hydraulic fluid for 15 mins. I jumped on the tractor, went to lift the blower up, and she didn't want to lift it. It actually made a nasty grinding noise that I never heard before :eek:. I had to reach back and give the top link a good tug to get it to lift. It stayed up in place with no problems but I feel that tractor just isn't strong enough to lift that beast. :(

The dozer blade and chute rotator work fine, I didn't notice any loss of speed or power.

Is the cold weather affecting the actual power of my 3pt hitch? I feel that the 3 pt lift power has been decreasing the last few times I used it. We had a small storm this past weekend, but it was not really cold out. It lifted it to drive out of the garage, but after a few times using it, it would not lift that damm blower. It's too bad because it was working well throwing snow in mid speed, wouldn't throw it at all in low speed...