Trailer for BX2370

[toeknee2120]

I just purchased my first tractor a couple months ago and it's been great. I actually enjoy cutting the grass now.

I'm looking into getting a trailer, mainly for transporting supplies/tools, but occasionally transporting my tractor. I have never owned a trailer and when I needed one, I borrowed it from a friend. Needless to say, I really don't know anything about them.

Any tips on what I should look for? I think I want something like this, but not sure if I should go with the 14' or 16'. They also have the option to reinforce the gate or switch it out with slide-in ramps. What is your preference?

 

[mwe060]

What are you pulling it with?

Do you have a A REAL RECEIVER or bumper pull?
Do you have 4 pin or 6 pin?
TBC in vehicle?

I would get the bigger trailer if you are confident in pulling one.

Also go with a tandom axle.

I have a 16Lx10W tandom i use for tractor and other things. along with many other trailers.

 

[Daren Todd]

I use a 16ft x 77" wide dove tail tandom axle. No brakes on it at the moment, but gonna switch the hubs and add brakes later. 14 ft would probably be a little short. My tractors about 6 ft long, but once you start adding implements, it eats up the space really fast. A little longer trailer will give you some room to position the tractor for better weight distribution. Therefore a better hauling experience. just make sure your vehicle will handle what your pulling safely

 

[85Hokie]

I just purchased my first tractor a couple months ago and it's been great. I actually enjoy cutting the grass now.

I'm looking into getting a trailer, mainly for transporting supplies/tools, but occasionally transporting my tractor. I have never owned a trailer and when I needed one, I borrowed it from a friend. Needless to say, I really don't know anything about them.

Any tips on what I should look for? I think I want something like this, but not sure if I should go with the 14' or 16'. They also have the option to reinforce the gate or switch it out with slide-in ramps. What is your preference?

Nice looking trailer - pulling a trailer involves a different mind set, like riding a motorcycle - the "way" you pull it is different than JUST driving a truck.

And backing a trailer up requires some patience and PRACTICE.....do it a lot !!!

Does your tractor have a bucket? and or a hoe? 16' with a hoe, and if you can afford a double axle get it, BUT here in VA if you have a double axle - must have brakes on it, opens another can of worms, SINGLE axle do not need brakes, you pulling with SUV or Truck?????

Make sure the tailgate can handle the weight! I reinforced mine (heavy as hell now) with 2 x 12's

send us a pic of tractor!

 

[res]

According to Tractor Data, your tractor alone weighs 1400 pounds. The mowing deck is between 200 and 250. IF you have a front loader, it adds about 375 and the bucket hits about 130. IF my research is right that places you in the 1600# range without an FEL and pushing the 2100# mark with an FEL. One thing others have hinted at is knowing how much trailer you need. If you do not have an FEL, then it is pretty likely you could use a 3500# rated trailer. If you have an FEL, you may want to be sure of the weight of the trailer, add it to the weight of the tractor to determine the GVW rating you will need. You might need to bump up to the 5000# level.
I concur with many of the other posts just trying to add something I look at closely.

 

[dmanlyr]

The trailer that the op listed has a GVW of 2990 pounds, in my opinion way to short on capacity for the load in question.

Unfortunately these trailers are out there, they are rated below 3000 pounds for a very specific reason, staying below that means that no brakes are required in many states, although your state may be different, that is the exact reason in WA state why they rate a trailer that would normally be at 3500 pounds (same 3500 pound axle on both trailers, just no brakes, AND 13' tires rather than 14" tires) at 2990 pounds!

I would opt for a braked trailer in any case unless towing with something substantial like a 3/4 or 1 ton. But check your owners manual, it will have the listing on what and when brakes are required. Think ahead though - you may change tow vehicles, so the slightly more expensive braked trailer may then be required, and just like trading up in tractor size, trading up in trailer size costs money due to depreciation.

David

 

[bearskinner]

If you spend a little bit extra now and get about a 16' dual axle trailer with at least one axle braking, you will have a MUCH nicer and more capable set up. If you loose a tire on a single axle, and wreck it, was it worth saving $500 on a cheaper trailer? if you ever need to tow a car home, or help a buddy the larger dual axle will handle it all. Plus I would feel better being over rated than just barely getting by. just my .02 cents worth

 

[cerlawson]

Having brakes on the trailer probably is what you would want, even if the laws there don't specifically require those. Ideally your towing vehicle should be "trailer equipped". That means a properly sized hitch on the vehicle as well as the electrical wiring. Then you add the brake controller in the driver's area. Otherwise there are trailers equipped with hydraulic brakes activated when towing vehicle brakes, making the trailer push forward and do its own braking at the hitch. Wiring up the towing vehicle for lights and brakes usually is much easier if "towing equipped". Otherwise the lest yu need is to use the flat plugs and connect wires to the rear lights of the towing vehicle.

Licensing is another factor. In some areas with a trailer capacity under, say 3,000 pounds, no license. Check with your DOT before buying.

 

[bearskinner]

Just thought of one more thing, make sure you get either some GOOD chains and binders, or a quality set of 10K ratcheting straps. I always use 4, criss cross them, and use axle straps too.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Don't go cheap on your trailer! Buy a good used tandem if you have to!

I needed to get my tractor down for service. My buddy loaned me his sweet tilt-bed trailer he bought from a rental company going out of business. At 45mph, it was a load for my 4Runner but we made it the 13.5mi to the service department. Upon arrival, the service manager told me I was using a trailer far in excess of its capacity. Remember the gross weight means the weight of the item you are hauling AND the weight of the trailer!

He got it for $500 and it was great for his little J.D. In fact, this same friend hauled my tractor down from where I bought it to my place for me, about 90mi. Only problem is, my tractor is about 1500lbs over gross for that single axle. And, when I bought my tractor, it had an 800lb roto-tiller on the back! No wonder the tires were hot when we got home! Great trailer. Good size. Just not up to the task. With that experience, I would never buy a single axle trailer myself. What if you upgrade to a larger tractor someday?

Never say never.

 

[Highspeed]

Toeknee,

Please don't undersize your trailer! That's not Uncle Bob's Craftsman there.

You're towing a substantial investment as well as a large liability. The trailer must contain the load in an accident, and that single axle trailer is going to fold up like a suitcase with 2500 lbs of tractor pulling on it. You'll also likely overload the hitch with a single axle.

Personally, I would suggest at least a dual axle with brakes and a 5K minimum gross. You'll have to measure your tractor, FEL and the tiller length to get your minimum length. Do you have a good size 1/2 ton or better vehicle to tow with? You could go with a standard car trailer, or landscape trailer, and it would suit you just fine. Or, if you think you may ever want to haul some material (stone, sand, wood chips, building materials, whatever), you could step up a notch to a skid steer trailer. The advantage to that is huge load capacity, tie downs on the frame (usually), sides to contain the load, 2-5/16" ball, and heavy duty everything. They will outlast a standard trailer. Here is an example...http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/equipment-trailers/skid-steer-equipment-trailer/

I bought a used skid steer trailer ($1500) and have used it for over a decade hauling everything from the tractor to sand (2 yards) to stone to wood to cars, etc. Never regretted it. A friend used a landscape trailer, which also works, but can't haul loose material due to the mesh bottom on his.

Your call, but buy the best you can afford and you'll never regret it. Kinda why you bought the Kubota.

Anything here?....
http://www.equipmenttraderonline.co...railer|2006282&sort=actualPrice:asc&newsort=1

 

[bearskinner]

I highly recommend getting a set of stabilizers for towing your trailer also. the hitch has two bars that attach to the trailer frame, and it makes towing anything much easier on you and your gear. It will give you your FULL tow capacity of your trailer. if you read your DMV laws, any trailer is only rated at what the ball holding it on is rated at, not full carrying capacity unless an "easy lift style" system in used with it. you only need one hitch set up, and you can purchase extra trailer brackets if you have more than one trailer. You don't want your insurance company to VOID your insurance if you are overloaded. you can overload a 10,000 trailer with your tractor if you only have it attached with a small shank tow ball. Spend a little more now, get killer setup, and be set for life with the best. I use my 30 year old trailer to tow tractors, trucks, lumber etc. Good load range "E" tires, EZ lift stabilizers and a 1 1/4" shank ball.

 

[Daren Todd]

I highly recommend getting a set of stabilizers for towing your trailer also. the hitch has two bars that attach to the trailer frame, and it makes towing anything much easier on you and your gear. It will give you your FULL tow capacity of your trailer. if you read your DMV laws, any trailer is only rated at what the ball holding it on is rated at, not full carrying capacity unless an "easy lift style" system in used with it. you only need one hitch set up, and you can purchase extra trailer brackets if you have more than one trailer. You don't want your insurance company to VOID your insurance if you are overloaded. you can overload a 10,000 trailer with your tractor if you only have it attached with a small shank tow ball. Spend a little more now, get killer setup, and be set for life with the best. I use my 30 year old trailer to tow tractors, trucks, lumber etc. Good load range "E" tires, EZ lift stabilizers and a 1 1/4" shank ball.

Do you have pics of the stabilizers your talking about for the trailer?

 

[mwe060]

I highly recommend getting a set of stabilizers for towing your trailer also. the hitch has two bars that attach to the trailer frame, and it makes towing anything much easier on you and your gear. It will give you your FULL tow capacity of your trailer. if you read your DMV laws, any trailer is only rated at what the ball holding it on is rated at, not full carrying capacity unless an "easy lift style" system in used with it. you only need one hitch set up, and you can purchase extra trailer brackets if you have more than one trailer. You don't want your insurance company to VOID your insurance if you are overloaded. you can overload a 10,000 trailer with your tractor if you only have it attached with a small shank tow ball. Spend a little more now, get killer setup, and be set for life with the best. I use my 30 year old trailer to tow tractors, trucks, lumber etc. Good load range "E" tires, EZ lift stabilizers and a 1 1/4" shank ball.

Some of this bugs me a little. Yes stabilizers are a great buy for sure depending on load and vehicle. What type of weight distribution hitch? Round or Triangle trunnion bars?

also worried on the 1 inch ball you mentioned. That is rated only to 3500 lbs.

My setup as follows for my tractor. Truck 2010 F150 5.4l with TBC and 3.43 gears rated haul weight is 10,800 class IV receiver. Trailer 1986 Utility Flatbed WOOD PLANKS 16 ft. has electric breaks on 1 axle, 2 5/16 ball rated at 10k. i have many more trailers but the is the most used.

With the tractor properly position on trailer 60/40 hauls fine. But my truck has built is Trailer sway control. and great breaks. When i haul round bails it is another story. I use the Weight distribution hitch and makes a worlds difference as it levels the load and truck. <<< way more important if you are using a smaller vehicle IE suv or something.

I would like to know what you are using to pull your rig for the OP. Not trying to step on tows but i tow a----lot for personal and business reasons.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

also worried on the 1 inch ball you mentioned. That is rated only to 3500 lbs.

Where did you get that? He said 1 1/4 shank ball, that not a 1" ball.

 

[mwe060]

Where did you get that? He said 1 1/4 shank ball, that not a 1" ball.

Ah. I stand corrected. Read it to fast.

At Least It comes to light that there are more than one place that size matters.

So as to my conflict the new commer has learned more.

 

[dwk121]

My setup. 10,000lb weight distribution setup. Handles any thing that my 2012 F150 will pull. Check out https://www.etrailer.com for hitch products. Very satisfied with my purchases. 18' car trailer with brakes on both axles. 7,000lb GVW.

 

[dwk121]

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Pro-Series/PS49903.html
Setup I purchased.

 

[dwk121]

My trailer, check them out at http://www.appalachiantrailers.com/car-trailers

 

[bearskinner]

My setup. 10,000lb weight distribution setup. Handles any thing that my 2012 F150 will pull. Check out https://www.etrailer.com for hitch products. Very satisfied with my purchases. 18' car trailer with brakes on both axles. 7,000lb GVW.

That's very similar to my set up. I think I have a REESE 10K also. the actual hitch receptacle (male part that goes in your truck receiver) has an adjustable height head, and it comes with a spacer ring so you can use a smaller shank ball. spend the extra $12.99 and get a 1 1/4" shank ball, and not from harbor freight. Don't use the ring and a small ball. My trailer is old, but very heavy duty. it has two 3,750 lb axles with brakes on one axle. learn how to set your GAIN on your trailer brake controller, and also when you set up your bars, do it before you load your trailer. Load the trailer with enough weight forward. I tow with my 2012 F150 4X4 super crew, and a E450 class C motorhome. load bias doesn't matter as much with the Moho, as its more than twice the size of the pick up. I also have Air ride stabilizer bags on each vehicle, with separate air controls. If I am towing my Bronco, or a large load of building materials on the trailer, I need to add some air to the bags to adjust ride height.
I've had a commercial drivers license all my life, so it matters to me as to what is legal to tow, and YOU as the carrier (driver) are responsible for your load. In a wreck of any kind, you will be looked at. I don't want anything to come into question if there is ever an accident. heck an old lady in a Buick can rear end you, and if someone checks your overloaded trailer, or if it comes apart, you will pay the price.
Sorry to be so long winded, but protect your tail, do it right the first time and always.