Still have serious issues with my B6100

[Eric McCarthy]

Bubba how many damn times I gotta tell ya! Your talking to a kat that doesnt have texting. The only damn thing I understood was beg steel borrow! If I knew what the hell I was looking for that wont be a problem.

AW LAWDY here we go with more technical mombojombo!

 

[traildust]

HA HA HA

Well ask around, your pops might even have one. Hopefully when you steal one it will have the aligator clips on the end of the leads.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

One of these thingies???

 

[traildust]

That's it!

When you steal one try to get a meter that doesn't have so many selections. Anything made in the las ten years should be a little more "automatic" than that one. I know, pick, picky ,picky

 

[JWB]

Harbor crap has a multi meter for four dollars. Cheapo but will work for what u are doing. When you get mad and throw it you won't be out a lot of money.
JWB

 

[traildust]

....When you get mad and throw it you won't be out a lot of money...

Maybe Eric should buy at least five of them

 

[aquaforce]

If your polarity is negative ground then there must be power getting to the frame for the tie down spark situation. The million dollar question is where is the path to ground??????????????????


Here is a way to do a process of elimination kinda fast.
Take the batt (+) cable loose from the batt.
Hook one end of a 12V test light to the loose batt cable and the other end to the batt (+) terminal.
If you gotta get a test light get a cheap one so you can throw it too.
If the test light is ON hooked up like this then you see the draw.
Disconnect items in the system one at a time until the light goes out. When this happens you have just found the path to ground and that is what needs fixed. It could be the starter, dynamo, regulator, a switch or yep that one year old batt.
Everything should be off for this process to work, key off and any electrical item turned off.

Good luck

 

[Rust Addict]

Behind the key you'll find some 2 cent fuse cases. Take a real good look at those buggers. If they are original they'll be just about falling apart in your hands, and the contacts in there to hold the fuse will be hanging on by one last strand if that. A trip to the auto parts store and $5 ends that problem.

Take a look at that wiring diagram, if the worn wire cover is causing all this when your shut down, I start with chasing from the ignition lead back to the batt.

You could prove the batt. is still good if you move it into something else for while and have no problems with the other engine after the swap over, same goes for borrowing a new one.

As a last ditch plan before you kick that one to the curb, put in a battery post shut off switch as a band-aide fix. After all it sounds like the problem is when your not running it.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I've got a voltage detector, will that work? I reckon I need to get my batter kill switch fixed then huh? It came with one there on the tractor but the knob broke off and I've never replaced it. I reckon now I need to find time to take a looksee at the tractor. I've been doing alot of maintenance work so Im using the walkbehind more.

 

[aquaforce]

I've got a voltage detector, will that work?

I haven't used one of those. Does it use a ground wire?
A test light will complete a circuit between the battery and the cable so if there is power moving to a ground the light turns on the same as it would if you touch power and ground with it.

If you can touch power and ground with the detector it would work but if it has sensors or is self powered for detection then it would not complete a circuit and not help in this method.

 

[traildust]

Eric,
that voltage detector looks like the kind for house hold or industrial. If that's what it is then it works off sensing the emf's. Most likely will not work so good on tractor or automobile.

 

[stanster]

Pretty sure those only work on A.C. I had the same problem on an R.V., I did what Aquaforce said but I didn't have a "test light" but I did have an old clearance light for a trailer(any 12v light bulb). Just unhooked the + cable and and put one of wires on the + terminal and one on the main battery cable. Start unhooking things until the light went out.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Yeah I had a feeling the voltage detector wouldent work. I think I can dig up a test light. Now I just need to find free time to have a lil looksee and figure out whats going on. I got to use the tractor in the am doing another job. WORK WORK WORK MONEY MONEY MONEY!!!

 

[Will In Tx]

Rip All the wires out and replace with new ones.....deep cycle batt. to!
TAMU

 

[aquaforce]

You can do what stanster said too.

If you have any kind of a 12V light then just run one side to the batt and the other side to the loose cable and it will work the same.

The test light pulls less power so it is more sensitive to low power loads whereas something like a headlight will respond more to a higher power load. Since you got sparks off a load binder it is possible that a high power load light would work fine.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I've got the hood off and the dash unbolted. I'm tryin to take a stabb at it today with a test light. I have no power what so ever off the battery. So what should I do to get some fire in the wire so I can figure things out?? Can I hook jumper cables off a truck to the battery and give me enough power to trace and see whats wrong or is that a bad idea??

 

[handyman]

Eric going to stick my nose in and hope it dont get cut off. Have you yaken battery off and took it to advance or napa to have tested. I have bought brand new ones got them home put on mower and battery bad. Took back and they tested new battery and it tested bad. One cell dead. Now for the chain issue scott is talking about . Think about this if the tractor is sitting on trailer with no chains on tractor anywhere and not tied by a chain or metal cable to the trailer you can boost it off no problem. When you connect a chain to the trailer METAL you are bypassing the rubber tires and the chain is connected to metal from tractor and if truck is touching trailer metel to metal good circuit tires wont help isolate the tractor at all. Forgive me if you done figured that out. Also hope the devil you understand what Im talking about. I AINT good at splaining myself in messages sorry so long. If you havent had battery checked head to napa or advance get it tested sometime because a test light lights doesnt mean battery is good.handy

 

[aquaforce]

I've got the hood off and the dash unbolted. I'm tryin to take a stabb at it today with a test light. I have no power what so ever off the battery. So what should I do to get some fire in the wire so I can figure things out?? Can I hook jumper cables off a truck to the battery and give me enough power to trace and see whats wrong or is that a bad idea??

I haven't tried that so I can't say from experience. My thought would be that there could be interferance from two systems tied together and that would make you just chase your tail if that happened.

If you have a batt charger then charging it up would be good. If not maybe useing the batt out of the truck or something else so that you have a single source of power to work with.


P.S. If batt is dead this could be opportune time to have it tested as mentioned. If they have a computer enhanced batt tester the batt doesn't have to be charged to determine if it is good or not.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

NEVERMIND IM A DUMBASS!!

I had the pos and neg treminal leads going backwards to the battery, The positive was the ground and the negative was the hot. Damn I must have look at it a million times and it seemed right, I took the rig over to a buddys house and he found the problem and he and his dad both looked at it to make sure. So I just had to run the wires in the right order!

THANKS GUYS!!!

 

[aquaforce]

THANKS GUYS!!!

It's nice when it is something easy.




Don't worry, it will probably be a loooooooooong time before you ever do that again.............if ever.



Happy motoring