Ok, an update on the injectors. Got two of three to stop leaking, but the forward injector still leaks both at its base and at where the fuel line connects. I have removed it, polished the ends of the fuel lines, replaced the copper washer, and cranked moderately, but not super, hard on it when putting it back.
Question: How hard can you crank on these? Is there a trick to setting them solid that I am missing?
Or - should I replace it? It seems to run smoothly, but starts a little hard. Do I ignore a little fuel and bubbles on one injector, or really go after it and either use more torque or replace?
This article may help you
The low sulfur diesel fuel got to my Kubota injector pump o-rings.
I had a continuous dripping of fuel from my pump. Mike McGragh posted
a replacement of one o-ring last year but was a little short on details.
Since more of the Kubota's are sure to start leaking, I decided to detail
my repair.
I went to the Kubota store to buy the o-rings and was told by the parts guy
that the injector pumps are not repairable. The pump must be replaced or
taken to a repair station for repair. I told the guy that one of our guys
had successfully replaced the o-rings and I just wanted to buy the o-rings.
He said they can not buy the rings from Kubota. He suggested I go to a pump
repair station to buy the o-rings. I went to NAPA and bought the only three
they had of that size. On the way to another NAPA I passed AutoZone and stopped.
AutoZone also had the o-rings.
You need two wrenches- 17mm and 19mm and a short piece of electrical tape.
1. Loosen the injector lines on the top and bottom. Just a few turns.
2. Remove the three line clamps.
3. Take the line loose from the Holder (#8 in Diagram). You may need both
wrenches to separate the line from the holder. Move line out of way.
4. Remove the holders. Because the holders are close together, I took the
outside holders first and the center holders second. Keep the parts identified.
5. Be careful not to drop the spring and washer if it comes out with the holder.
6. Remove the old o-ring. Put the tape around the threads to protect the new
o-ring when pushing it on the holder.
7. Two of the copper washers(#4 in Diagram) stayed in the holder and two remained
under the spring. I put them all back in the holder for installation. A drop of fuel
kept them inside the holder. Careful do not drop the washer into the pump.
8. The spring fits on the valve. The valve fits into an indent when centered.
Make sure they are centered before you install the holder with the new o-ring.
9. Reinstall all in reverse order. Do not tighten the lines on top at
the injectors.
10.Crank the engine until fuel comes out of lines on top. I cranked three
times for about a minute each before I got fuel out of all lines. Then
tighten the lines on top and start normally with preheat.
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