Heater Question

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

We have an L3010 HST. I am looking to attach a pad heater, but it has one of those odd W shaped two drain hole oil pans.

Can I attach the 4"x5" 150 pad heater to the side of the pan? Or will that cause uneven heating to one side of the block and pose danger or additional wear?

My other option is to purchase two 1"x5" 50 watt pads. I have decided against the magnetic heater.

Thanks in advance
Matt

 

[85Hokie]

We have an L3010 HST. I am looking to attach a pad heater, but it has one of those odd W shaped two drain hole oil pans.

Can I attach the 4"x5" 150 pad heater to the side of the pan? Or will that cause uneven heating to one side of the block and pose danger or additional wear?

My other option is to purchase two 1"x5" 50 watt pads. I have decided against the magnetic heater.

Thanks in advance
Matt

those heaters only get to 190+ F you will not hurt a thing engine wise that is getting up there to close to 500 F.......

get two of them and place on either side? Why did you not want to use the magnetic heater? Will not sit flat?

 

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

I could use the mag heater, but the tractor will be outside when its plugged in. I have heard there is a gap between the heater and the pan, so the transfer is less effective. I would imagine wind would make it worse, and I have seen reviews where they melt. Those reasons and this is an HOA tractor, other people that use the equipment have a terrible time losing weird things.

With the shape of the pan, there are two bottom parts that are about 2" x 7" and flat, so i could put two strips there, heat would be even and rise evenly. With the larger pad it would have to go mostly on one side. If for some reason, we left the tractor in the barn when we needed it and it were frozen, is about 100' from power, and anything over 500 watts fries cords. I would go with a larger cord and block heater, but then I would worry about the wiring behind the outlet.

Odd situation lol

 

[Tooljunkie]

My choice? Warm oil above anything else. I would stick on that larger pad, making sure it completely contacts the pan. Any thoughts about a bit of a belly tarp to keep wind off? Ot tarp it when not in use.
I guess if its anything like my government outfit cant depend on anybody to even plug something in let alone tarping it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wouldn't even consider one of those.
Why not put the standard block heater in it?
Block heaters heats far better than a pad heater, Pad heaters heat the oil and nothing else, block heaters heat everything because the heat is at the core of the motor.

 

[85Hokie]

Wouldn't even consider one of those.
Why not put the standard block heater in it?
Block heaters heats far better than a pad heater, Pad heaters heat the oil and nothing else, block heaters heat everything because the heat is at the core of the motor.

YOU mean the core of the ENGINE???? ....

you sound like one of dem dar nascar racer drivers......

just funning ya !

 

[Ezlife45]

I doubt a pad heater will pose problems for your block. It would be better for a pad heater to be on the bottom rather than the side because heat rises. You would lose most of the convective heat transfer mounting on the side of the pan. A block heater would more uniformly heat your engine.

Regular carbon steel expands at 6E-6 inches / inch/ degree Fahrenheit. If you calculated the actual temperature difference and the temperature of your heater, I doubt you would get very much thermal expansion.

P.S. I may not be a heat transfer professional but I did stay at a Holiday Express last week.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Regular carbon steel expands at 6E-6 inches / inch/ degree Fahrenheit. If you calculated the actual temperature difference and the temperature of your heater, I doubt you would get very much thermal expansion.

P.S. I may not be a heat transfer professional but I did stay at a Holiday Express last week.

What about aluminum as that's what the oil pans are made of?

 

[olthumpa]

The only thing that I have found heat pads useful for is putting them under the battery to raise the temp thereby increasing the amps available at low temps. As has already been mentioned, a block heater is the way to go.

 

[Ezlife45]

What about aluminum as that's what the oil pans are made of?

6061 aluminum is 13.1 instead of 6. Not sure what cast aluminum would be but it should be close.

 

[Stubbyie]

Regarding EZLife45 and being a heat transfer professional: if you're more than 45-miles from home with a briefcase you can be a professional anything. Sort of like calories: they don't count if not at home.

Suggestion to Ridiculously Neccessary:

Install a lower radiator hose heater (Kat's brand by Five Star Mfg) and hardmount a battery maintainer (Schumacher).

Wire the two together to one male plug (fuse both sides of the maintainer's 12-vdc line(s) close to the battery).

Invest in a 10-gauge 100-ft outdoor rated extension cord.

Invest also in a suitable tarp and some bungee straps.

When parking machine plug in the one plug and drape the tarp to keep wind off the engine and radiator.

If you have to for traffic or theft run the HD extension cord inside grey conduit or use direct-bury Romex.

When plugging in the machine after use wrap the extension cord around the seat and steering wheel. Maybe the next user will get the hint before driving off.

Although not a HOA (Lord forbid...) our machines get occasionally used by others and every one of them is wired as described here. No plugged-in drive-offs yet.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[ShaunRH]

To be honest, the best heater is a heated shed/barn. It's better for the tractor all the way around. Nothing to plug in either, and the tractor helps heat the shed/barn at the end of the day after turn off. You also don't need to keep the shed/barn at 72° either, you can keep it at 50° and all is good, so using ground heat exchangers work awesome and only require the electricity needed to run the fluid pump.

 

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

My choice? Warm oil above anything else. I would stick on that larger pad, making sure it completely contacts the pan. Any thoughts about a bit of a belly tarp to keep wind off? Ot tarp it when not in use.
I guess if its anything like my government outfit cant depend on anybody to even plug something in let alone tarping it.

I completely agree. I do plan on placing a wind block of some sort, haven't gotten that far and figure I could do it on the fly. Probably tarp, and yes, I guarantee the other guys won't tarp it. Or remember to plug it in.

Wouldn't even consider one of those.
Why not put the standard block heater in it?
Block heaters heats far better than a pad heater, Pad heaters heat the oil and nothing else, block heaters heat everything because the heat is at the core of the motor.

I would much prefer a block heater, we may examine that solution in a vote (meh). The problem with that is the installation is $300 - $400. I would do it myself but wont likely have the time. No stranger to diesels, I had a couple PowerStrokes and with their HEUI injection block heater was stock and best option. Everything gets warm, and no need to wait for the glows. I doubt the HOA will want to pay the install, plus the high gauge cord. Previous grounds person put a 500 watt lamp under it and could start it and then it wouldn't move for 30 minutes. That's just not necessary.

Regarding EZLife45 and being a heat transfer professional: if you're more than 45-miles from home with a briefcase you can be a professional anything. Sort of like calories: they don't count if not at home.

Suggestion to Ridiculously Neccessary:

Install a lower radiator hose heater (Kat's brand by Five Star Mfg) and hardmount a battery maintainer (Schumacher).

Wire the two together to one male plug (fuse both sides of the maintainer's 12-vdc line(s) close to the battery).

Invest in a 10-gauge 100-ft outdoor rated extension cord.

Invest also in a suitable tarp and some bungee straps.

When parking machine plug in the one plug and drape the tarp to keep wind off the engine and radiator.

If you have to for traffic or theft run the HD extension cord inside grey conduit or use direct-bury Romex.

When plugging in the machine after use wrap the extension cord around the seat and steering wheel. Maybe the next user will get the hint before driving off.

Although not a HOA (Lord forbid...) our machines get occasionally used by others and every one of them is wired as described here. No plugged-in drive-offs yet.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

We may go that route, I looked at circulating heaters, if we did that I would do the install, but first choice is to heat the oil and let convection warm the bock. That is a good idea with the cord. I would leave a note on the cluster too, that's what I did for my wife in the truck.

To be honest, the best heater is a heated shed/barn. It's better for the tractor all the way around. Nothing to plug in either, and the tractor helps heat the shed/barn at the end of the day after turn off. You also don't need to keep the shed/barn at 72° either, you can keep it at 50° and all is good, so using ground heat exchangers work awesome and only require the electricity needed to run the fluid pump.

That is the best option. Long story short, they don't want to run power to the barn for a number of reasons, much less heat it. If everyone paid their dues it wouldn't be a big deal. If they choose to install a block heater, we will probably still have to park it in my driveway for the power. I don't mind. I don't trust the electrical by the barn, and if we get an unexpected snow, ice, other unforeseen event, I would like to ideally still be able to plug it in at the barn. So for the foreseeable season, 500 watt max. Since posting I have found that the pad heaters should be plenty flexible. It doesn't get that cold in our area (Kansas City suburb). The previous keeper said when it gets down under 10 it won't start. But "I" have not tried lol.

 

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

Want to thank everyone too. This is a nice forum, just joined, no flammers. everyone pitches in ideas and seems open.

Bit about me, I am an IT guy, technical, and love DIY. I really wish I had more time to spend on the property. We have a 55 unit subdivision with a private drive, 40 acres, we mow 4 and brush hog 4. Rest is wooded, drainage, or just field. The previous keeper is no longer able to take care of the grounds. Four of us stepped up, 3 mow, two scalp the lawn and it drives me insane. Their theory is to cut not care, looks terrible and is mostly brown by July. The ZT mower has been through a lot this year needless to say and is currently in for a lot of repairs. Anyway, rant off. I am just glad to have access to big boy toys again. I have learned a ton about the tractor in very short order, but would like to get my mits on a manual, but they seem to want a lot of $$ for a 15 year old tractor. I DIY everything I have the time and tools for, it saves money and it's fun, better than sitting at a desk all day. It's my play time.

I would trench electrical myself to the barn, but I have been warned that power and plumbing is buried in the area and was never marked.

 

[olthumpa]

I would trench electrical myself to the barn, but I have been warned that power and plumbing is buried in the area and was never marked.

Missouri One Call Law


Might try calling these people. There is no charge for their service in Maine, ( it is call Dig Safe here), I do not know about where you live.
https://www.mo1call.com/

If the tractor is hard starting, these are examples of the battery heaters I mentioned before.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+Heaters/N0651/C0076.oap

Best of luck in what ever you decide.

 

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

Missouri One Call Law


Might try calling these people. There is no charge for their service in Maine, ( it is call Dig Safe here), I do not know about where you live.
https://www.mo1call.com/

If the tractor is hard starting, these are examples of the battery heaters I mentioned before.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+Heaters/N0651/C0076.oap

Best of luck in what ever you decide.

Thanks, good thought on the battery. Overlooked that. Supposedly its new, but it does sit a lot, obviously with no maintainer. I haven't called the One Call place, I'm aware of it but was told the lines weren't tagged 15 years or so ago when they were put in so it won't work. I'm "told" the have to he tagged for detection. But no expert in that area. But it's worth a shot, nothing to lose! Thanks.

 

[olthumpa]

If all else fails:

 

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

If all else fails:

Precisely!

 

[D2Cat]

When you call for locates they will not locate lines you installed on property. Only from meters (water, elect.) or power poles or phone boxes to main structure.

Another thing One Call ads never say, you are responsible to hand dig 24" on each side of their locate mark.

 

[RidiculouslyNecessary]

When you call for locates they will not locate lines you installed on property. Only from meters (water, elect.) or power poles or phone boxes to main structure.

Another thing One Call ads never say, you are responsible to hand dig 24" on each side of their locate mark.

I see. Long story short, this subdivision was built about 30 years ago out in the country with little to no codes. Self proclaimed experts did a lot of wiring and plumbing. I am certainly no electrician, but what I have seen so far is astonishing, and it's a miracle nothing has burned down. A few have been shocked though. The original electrician maintains that it is all up to current code (been annexed since the build). I was speechless. In our place, I have found that most of the electrical connections behind the walls are taped, very few junction boxes. I have also seen some regular wires just buried in the ground for the sidewalk lights. Which is what I am sure is by the barn. Lot's of improvements I would like to make given the time, HOA money and a fun tractor.