Installing a block heater on a B2620

[zbhover]

When I bought my B2620 a couple months ago I talked the dealer into throwing in a block heater, but they were out of them at the time. They got them back in stock so I picked it up over the weekend and installed it last night. Its a pretty simple process, but I figured I'd share and thought it might be a little help for someone who might be a little nervous to tear into their tractor......

Of course this is the kind that goes in the block, not the magnetic type you slap on the oil pan. I'm not sure if one kind is better than the other or not, but this one was free


I pulled off the grill and two side panels, I guess I could have left the right side panel on, but I cleaned them up while I had them off anyways. Then I pulled off the negative cable on the battery. Your working right next to the starter and it sure wouldn't be a lot of fun to short a ratchet out on the starter.......

Here is the block heater, they cover several models with the same heaters, I'm guessing the hose clamp and chuck of round stock was for a different model because the instructions didn't mention anything about them for my b2620

You'll need to pull the little fuse box off to be able to get to the plug you need to remove. There is just a little plastic tab you need to push and then pull up on the fuse box and it will come right off.

You'll also need a 17mm allen wrench or hex bit socket to pull the plug out of the block.

Before you pull the plug out of the block make sure you have the heater ready to go with some thread tape on it. When you pull the plug coolant will start pouring out at you. If your quick you won't loose much at all. I pulled the plug out and had the heater in my other hand and got it put in and only lost maybe a cup of coolant.

Then you can put the plug on the heater, tie up the cord, and put the fuse box back on.

I tied my cord up so the plug is where I can get to it easily, but also out of the way.

I'll probably also put a battery tender on it before winter.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You picked the right choice for the heater.
Being that your Kubota, and all other models, have an aluminum oil pan the magnetic oil pan heater would be a little tough to work with!

 

[Cal270]

Nice explanation and photos!
My dealer just did the same on my tractor during 50 hr service, I'm not as handy As you...
Question, which battery tender are you putting on? I have been thinking of doing the same.

 

[Stubbyie]

I've had great success using one of the several battery maintainers from Schumacher. Some models have more LEDs than others but all work about the same.

You can hardmount the device somewhere handy and connect it directly to battery. If you use 'remote' mounting area and route your connection leads directly to battery terminals---better to hook both sides directly to battery, not chassis ground---be sure and fuse both sides. Just in case...

We've got a dozen of these little maintainers on everything with a battery year-round---welders, gensets, pumps, farm trucks, mowers, tractors. Truly makes a difference in battery life.

You can also route connection cables from battery to somplace handy and use a 'portable' maintainer you can move between machines. Use a two-prong trailer connector or similar to "plug in the maintainer". If doing this make certain the hot-side-from-battery is the shielded side of the connector aboard the tractor.

We even have a maintainer riding inside a black plastic battery box and made our own portable jump-starter and with the addition of cigarette lighter receptacle off the battery we can use a handheld spotlight, travel mug warmer, laptop, or even light a cigarette. Plug it in between uses and keeps battery fully charged.

Seriously, we've got at least four "60 month" batteries that are in their eighth year and still going strong and they've been on maintainer since day one.

I use the Schumachers on sale at Tractor Supply or similar places when they get down to $20 I buy several (for install on customer equipment).

I've had one failure in probably 25-yrs. Called Schumacher and they kicked out a replacement same day straight to my door. I guess they'll ultimately wear out or fail internally and I suspect they're susceptible to grid fluctuations, but overall we've been extremely satisfied.

Please post back your experiences and decision how to proceed so we may all learn.

 

[b2320]

What type of thread tape do you use? Is the normal Teflon tape a good choice or does it need a high temp tape? Thanks for the great post and information as I have been putting this off but will do go ahead and add this to my B2320 soon. Thanks again!!!

 

[zbhover]

What type of thread tape do you use? Is the normal Teflon tape a good choice or does it need a high temp tape? Thanks for the great post and information as I have been putting this off but will do go ahead and add this to my B2320 soon. Thanks again!!!

I just used regular teflon tape, should hold up just fine, teflon is eared at a pretty high temp if I remember correctly.

 

[Philly20]

I know this is an old post but I found it quite helpful when I did my block heater install this past weekend. I thought I'd share a few notes from my experience. I was able to get the plug out with a 5/8 hex bit. I was able to get away with the sloppy fit due the shiny newness of my engine but if yours is older I'd recommend getting the correct 17mm bit.

I would also add that the hardest part of the job is tightening the element sufficiently. I had some initial problems with leaking. I was only able to tighten the element so far with channel locks in the very limited space. I finally scrounged up a 35mm socket and a few turns later, no leak!

As the OP, mentioned you can do this job without draining the entire cooling system. I was not as quick as the OP; I lost several cups of coolant. So far the new heater has tested great. It really makes life easier for the engine!

 

[Dave_eng]

When you dont have the correct size hex bit, use a bolt with the head of the correct size to fit into the hole where the hex bit would go.
Lock two nuts together on the bolt threads or weld one nut and then you have made yourself a special tool for a few cents. In a few years you will be wondering what it is for kicking around in your tool box.
Dave M7040

 

[Dontwannaflip]

I just picked up the same engine block heater pictured by the original poster for a B2601.

Does anyone know what the little metal slug is for? (See OP's picture) It is not made of aluminum or zinc, so I don't think it is supposed to be a sacrificial anode. It looks like steel, but not magnetized. It does not fit into any of the other pieces.

The instructions included with the kit are for another engine and they don't mention this little slug. The dealer didn't know what it was for- this area is not known for needing engine block heaters. My only guess is that you are supposed to use the hose clamp to anchor the slug near the NEMA 5-15 plug end so it is weighted down and won't flop around and get into the fan or other moving parts.

 

[SDMauler]

One quick note about those battery maintainers. Get one that has a 2-pole connector and longish cable so you can leave the maintainer in the shed and not on the tractor, as the vibration will rattle it to a premature death. I have an auxiliary DC power connector to run my sprayer and water bowser pump, which is fused at the battery, so I wired the maintainer wires into the aux connector back side.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just picked up the same engine block heater pictured by the original poster for a B2601.

Does anyone know what the little metal slug is for? (See OP's picture) It is not made of aluminum or zinc, so I don't think it is supposed to be a sacrificial anode. It looks like steel, but not magnetized. It does not fit into any of the other pieces.

The instructions included with the kit are for another engine and they don't mention this little slug. The dealer didn't know what it was for- this area is not known for needing engine block heaters. My only guess is that you are supposed to use the hose clamp to anchor the slug near the NEMA 5-15 plug end so it is weighted down and won't flop around and get into the fan or other moving parts.

If the piece of metal is solid, I think it might be a plug for the bypass hose under the heater opening.
I wouldn't use it.

 

[Dontwannaflip]

Definitely a solid plug. I was about to hand-over-hand that hose just below the heater port to see if I could figure out what it is (shown in another one of the OP's pictures above). You say it is a bypass hose? I assume a coolant bypass hose? What component is it bypassing? That plug looks like it is just the right size for that hose/port.

One of the random manuals I found for the engine (or similar engine) shows a coolant drain plug in that spot. I definitely won't use the kit plug unless I can figure out what it's for.

 

[kubotasam]

I believe that some older Kubota engines the pipe plug you remove with the 17mm hex bit had a fitting through the center and the black hose that goes into the block went into the pipe fitting. The solid steel plug was to seal the end of the black hose as it could not go back into the engine because of the block heater and is not necessary to enter the engine block for its function as radiator drain.
The kits are universal and all seem to include this mostly unnecessary solid plug and hose clamp.

 

[Dontwannaflip]

What you guys are saying makes a lot of sense- a lot better than my guess about the slug/plug being a weight to keep the cord out of the fan! I can just imagine the cord and slug getting caught in the fan. That would be an exciting few seconds!

I actually plan to wrap the cord in some spiral wrap and tie-wrap it securely. Long term I might see if there is a way to mount a little box with a male NEMA receptacle so the heater's little pigtail does not get damaged by frequent use.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I believe that some older Kubota engines the pipe plug you remove with the 17mm hex bit had a fitting through the center and the black hose that goes into the block went into the pipe fitting. The solid steel plug was to seal the end of the black hose as it could not go back into the engine because of the block heater and is not necessary to enter the engine block for its function as radiator drain.
The kits are universal and all seem to include this mostly unnecessary solid plug and hose clamp.

Yes that is the right answer!

 

[comforthill]

Thanks for posting this. We just bought a used B2620 form North Carolina and it does not have a block heater. We will need one here in Northern Michigan and this helps greatly. Thanks. Have to pick the block heater up and install.
Roger

 

[Dgas47]

Hopefully someone still follows this thread...

Two days ago I installed this same kit on my B2601. Used thread sealant and the whole 9 yards. Ran the engine for 30 minutes and no leaks. Awesome.

Yesterday I plugged the heater in for 1 hour. Came back out and noticed antifreeze leaking out of the hose directly underneath the heating element. Didn't have time to mess with it then. The leak only appeared after the heater was used.

A Google search on block heaters found that there may be an issue with the pressure buildup and expansion of the coolant while the remainder of the engine stays cold. Thus the leak from the weak point. Sound reasonable?

So how do we remedy this? I was thinking of trying to use the hose clamp that came with the kit instead of the one that's on there now but at the same time over tightening that will cut the hose. Am I missing something extremely obvious?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hopefully someone still follows this thread...

Two days ago I installed this same kit on my B2601. Used thread sealant and the whole 9 yards. Ran the engine for 30 minutes and no leaks. Awesome.

Yesterday I plugged the heater in for 1 hour. Came back out and noticed antifreeze leaking out of the hose directly underneath the heating element. Didn't have time to mess with it then. The leak only appeared after the heater was used.

A Google search on block heaters found that there may be an issue with the pressure buildup and expansion of the coolant while the remainder of the engine stays cold. Thus the leak from the weak point. Sound reasonable?

So how do we remedy this? I was thinking of trying to use the hose clamp that came with the kit instead of the one that's on there now but at the same time over tightening that will cut the hose. Am I missing something extremely obvious?

Are you talking about the small hose under the heater?
Your supposed to cap that hose when you put the heater in it i do believe.
Pictures would help!

 

[Dgas47]

Are you talking about the small hose under the heater?
Your supposed to cap that hose when you put the heater in it i do believe.
Pictures would help!

This hose is the one I'm talking about. There was nothing in the directions. If that's supposed to be plugged then I feel like a moron.

 

[Dgas47]

And as far as leftover parts this is what I have.