Building chute and lift control for snowblower...joystick control?

[Underwhere]

So I purchased a window motor and a linear actuator for the front-mount snowblower.

That stuff seems pretty straight forward to me.

I also purchased 2 DPDT switches (In retrospect I don't see why I couldn't have just used 2 SPCO or SPTT switches.

In any event my brother mentioned the idea of using a joystick. This way I could control both the tilt and chute at the same time.

Has anyone given any thought to this? I'm not really well versed in electrical jargon. What type of joystick would I need? A double pole center off? Some sort of joystick with a potentiometer built in so I can control the speed of the electric motor and actuator?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The joystick controller that you would need would be $100+.
It has to have high amperage rated contacts, 4 position and dual poles on every position.

Unless you are also going to build a control box and a processor you don't want a potentiometer control stick.

Doing it with a pair of double throw double pole switches is the easiest and cheapest, and no you cannot do it easily with a single pole or single throw switch.

 

[jb62901]

I had made the chute controler out of a car window motor. Had less than $20 in it,this, will be my 4th year of use. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMcQ6Yz1K3U

 

[chim]

Please post progress and pics. This is a something I'm about ready to work on. Parts and pieces have been trickling in over the past several weeks.

 

[Underwhere]

The joystick controller that you would need would be $100+.
It has to have high amperage rated contacts, 4 position and dual poles on every position.

Unless you are also going to build a control box and a processor you don't want a potentiometer control stick.

Doing it with a pair of double throw double pole switches is the easiest and cheapest, and no you cannot do it easily with a single pole or single throw switch.

Thanks for your input. I get the DPDT switch now. For some reason I was forgetting that I had to reverse the polarity in order to get the motors to go backwards. And thanks for the diagram. I was going to wire up each switch separately, each with it's own fuse but I guess there's really no point and I can tie them in together.

It would have been cool to control this by joystick...but I guess the reality is that I'm not going to be rotating and tilting all too much. Hasn't been an issue in the past.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks for your input. I get the DPDT switch now. For some reason I was forgetting that I had to reverse the polarity in order to get the motors to go backwards. And thanks for the diagram. I was going to wire up each switch separately, each with it's own fuse but I guess there's really no point and I can tie them in together.

It would have been cool to control this by joystick...but I guess the reality is that I'm not going to be rotating and tilting all too much. Hasn't been an issue in the past.

You can still fuse them Independently just put a fuse on the + input of each switch.

 

[tcrote5516]

Something like this would work. Basically its two DPDT switches in one. You would need to make a relay block to handle the current but that really wouldn't be that much work at all.

http://www.progressiveautomations.com/actuator-joystick-switch-rc-08.aspx

 

[Tooljunkie]

Four relays and and four spst pushbutton switches in a cross pattern. But the mitts wouldnt help. Toggles would be the easiest.
Please correct me if im wrong, source voltage should be either end of switch, and load goes on two centre pins. Or does it work either way?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Something like this would work. Basically its two DPDT switches in one. You would need to make a relay block to handle the current but that really wouldn't be that much work at all.

http://www.progressiveautomations.com/actuator-joystick-switch-rc-08.aspx

That is Exactly the right Joystick setup, rather odd way to hook it up but it would work for the snow blower control!

Four relays and and four spst pushbutton switches in a cross pattern. But the mitts wouldnt help. Toggles would be the easiest.
Please correct me if im wrong, source voltage should be either end of switch, and load goes on two centre pins. Or does it work either way?

You can feed power in and out on either set works the same either way.

Underwhere,
You would want a bipolar capacitor across the output terminals of the switch other wise it will eventually fry the contacts on the switch, same with the inputs and outputs on the relay if you did the joystick option.

 

[Underwhere]

That is Exactly the right Joystick setup, rather odd way to hook it up but it would work for the snow blower control!



You can feed power in and out on either set works the same either way.

Underwhere,
You would want a bipolar capacitor across the output terminals of the switch other wise it will eventually fry the contacts on the switch, same with the inputs and outputs on the relay if you did the joystick option.

You guys are getting over my head. I may just stick with my 2 DPDT switches.

 

[tcrote5516]

You're not getting over your head, the principal's are exactly the same. All that joystick is, is 2 DPDT switches. I suggest the relay pack to take the load off (wiring up 4 relay's for this application is easy beans, all the negatives, positives get pulled together so all you have is the trigger and the loads to wire to the joystick/motors. Put it in a project box and call it done.

I'd be happy to make you a schematic if needed.

The capacitor idea isn't a bad one either. Myself I would just put the relay's in their own socket so if the contacts ever crapped out it would be a quick change. With that said, a 30 amp automotive relay covers almost 400 watts...not sure what your motor draw's on startup but that's a lot of current capacity.

 

[Underwhere]

You're not getting over your head, the principal's are exactly the same. All that joystick is, is 2 DPDT switches. I suggest the relay pack to take the load off (wiring up 4 relay's for this application is easy beans, all the negatives, positives get pulled together so all you have is the trigger and the loads to wire to the joystick/motors. Put it in a project box and call it done.

I'd be happy to make you a schematic if needed.

The capacitor idea isn't a bad one either. Myself I would just put the relay's in their own socket so if the contacts ever crapped out it would be a quick change. With that said, a 30 amp automotive relay covers almost 400 watts...not sure what your motor draw's on startup but that's a lot of current capacity.

The other problem is...where to put that joystick. It's rather large and I'd hate to clip it with my butt if I exit the machine quickly one day.
The rockers are pretty flush.

 

[Underwhere]

Could I get some help with wiring?

Problem:
I have most of it working but I have an issue with the illumination of the switch.

I wasn't expecting it to light up but it is...but when switch is centered (nothing touching it), one arrow is illuminated.

I can't open up the switch to get rid of the LED so the way it is wired, it will just drain my battery which is a concern of mine.

Here is the issue: Notice one arrow illuminated constantly.

Here is the supposed wiring for the switch:

Here is how I wired it up (I did both switches this way)
All 4 grounds are tied together and I have 2 separate 12V DC wires to the battery.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

#1 Reverse the leads to the LED feed, swap positive connection for ground, so positive to 2 and 4 and ground to 3.

#2 If you hit it will enough reverse voltage you can fry the LED, then no more light.

#3 Wire the hot input up to a keyed switched input, no key on no power.

 

[tcrote5516]

I like the switch choice, low key but functional and it looks OEM! Just make sure that both of those motors don't draw more then that one ground can handle when running at the same time. This is DC and the ground (which really isn't a ground, but a negative) will need to handle just as much current as the positive leads.

I also wouldn't add that load to any switched outlet on the tractor without a relay between it. There's nothing on the switched side of the ignition that can handle the factory lighting + decent accessories.

 

[Underwhere]

#1 Reverse the leads to the LED feed, swap positive connection for ground, so positive to 2 and 4 and ground to 3.

#2 If you hit it will enough reverse voltage you can fry the LED, then no more light.

#3 Wire the hot input up to a keyed switched input, no key on no power.

Thanks for the advice. I think I'd like to try and blow the LED.
It only lights up one side anyway which is kind of weird.

I like the switch choice, low key but functional and it looks OEM! Just make sure that both of those motors don't draw more then that one ground can handle when running at the same time. This is DC and the ground (which really isn't a ground, but a negative) will need to handle just as much current as the positive leads.

I also wouldn't add that load to any switched outlet on the tractor without a relay between it. There's nothing on the switched side of the ignition that can handle the factory lighting + decent accessories.

I was considering adding a relay but I'd rather not add anything else. I had this all sorted out in my head

 

[Underwhere]

I ended up just disassembling the switches and cutting the LED out.

Reversing the polarity didn't fry them unfortunately.

Anyone have any ideas on how to fashion a mount for the window motor?
Preferably without welding.

 

[tcrote5516]

Just pick up some punched steel flat bar and angle iron from Lowes or HD. It may look like an Erector set but it's easy to cut and slap together with nuts/bolts.