Inexpensive but tough brush guard L2800F

[sandbag3]

Ran a branch through my light kit on the L2800F while bush hogging. The kit cost over $350 to replace from Kubota and the bulb was another $27.00. Decided to prevent this from ever happening again. Total materials cost about $30 max.
Not as pretty as many of you guys with the plasma cutters and advanced welding skills but for my needs it met the bill. Strong like bull.

 

[Daren Todd]

Looks good

 

[clippy]

Very nice looking. Good job.

 

[dmanlyr]

Very nice, looks great and should do a good job protecting the front of the tractor.

David

 

[handyman]

Looks good and works that's what counts. handy

 

[Tooljunkie]

Looks like it will do the job.
If i built something like that for the one at work, they would use it for pushing stuff.
I need to overbuild anything like that x10.

 

[coachgeo]

If it works... dont fix it Looks like it willl work just fine.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sandbag3, your poll portion is TOO negative, lean towards the positive side in the future, you'll get better results!


Looks like it should stop the rouge sticks and branches from doing your headlights in again!

 

[Bug-O-1]

If these pics. came through, this is my latest invention, brush guards to protect the valve stem on my L3400. I had brand new tires just put on, loaded with calcium, and one little stick hit the stem and another $140.00 to fix the tire, plus aggravation. After tires are on the rim, I cant weld on the them, so next option is try to figure out how to bolt on valve stem protectors.

 

[D2Cat]

How about cutting your tubing to desired length. Grind, cut, shape end to butt against wheel to fit closely. Clean all paint off wheel. Use wire welder to weld to wheel. Weld for a few seconds and cover with a water soaked rag to cool. Keep doing until completely around tubing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Bug-O-1,
Do you have tubes in the tires or just rims?

You would only need a couple good tack welds to hold the pipe shield in place, and keep the valve stem protected, you could also use a pipe nipple and put a threaded cap on it, clean neat and tough.

If it's rims, then you could weld to it with no problem, the calcium inside will keep it cool enough.

If it's tubed get a valve stem tool, looks like a bar with a threaded end.
Move the valve stem to the top let out the air, move the valve stem to the bottom,remove the large holding nut, thread the valve stem tool on it have pipe wet rag and welder ready, push the valve stem in about an inch that will move the tube out of the way or the welds, tack weld it and then cool with rag after cooled let the valve stem back out and reinstall holding nut and air back up.

 

[Bug-O-1]

How about cutting your tubing to desired length. Grind, cut, shape end to butt against wheel to fit closely. Clean all paint off wheel. Use wire welder to weld to wheel. Weld for a few seconds and cover with a water soaked rag to cool. Keep doing until completely around tubing.

I no longer dare to weld on rims that still have a tire on it after seeing a video of a tire exploding after only a few seconds of welding. My first tractor tires were tubeless with a heavy duty steel valve stem, it could take some hits from sticks and not brake, but when I replaced my tires, the garage put tubes in, and the valve stems aren't as strong.

So after the first $140.00 hit, I decided to do something to protect the stems with out taking the tires 30 miles back out to the garage, take tire off, bring rims back, weld pipe on it, take rims 30 miles back out, etc. I thought would be easier if I invent some bolt on stem protectors, and so far after a 4 month test, there working great.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I no longer dare to weld on rims that still have a tire on it after seeing a video of a tire exploding after only a few seconds of welding.

Glad they work for you! Protection is a good thing!

Just a note: A tire filled with calcium, and with the valve stem on the bottom, has no flammable air in it to explode.
But I get your concern.