My gf1800 pto cuts off after it has been running for about 20 minutes, I can switch the lever to the off position for a couple of seconds and engage it again an it will start again but will only go for a short time before it quits again. Iv'e checked the fluid and its good.
GF1800 pto cuts off after it warms up
- Thread starter mtwellsafe
- Start date
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
check the safety switch that goes with the PTO "lever" - vibration might be cutting it off, and when you flick it back, there is enough to make contact again. Would not think it is a fluid thing since you get it to work immediately after it cuts off.
But after I switched it back on I would think it would last as long but it dont. and it seems to quit sooner when in higher grass. If I let it cool down it will go 20 to 30 minutes again
coachgeo
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L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Maybe stop and also considering NOT a heat thing but more of a "time" thing. Could be that it just so happens by the "time" the issue arises/builds up the PTO is "also" hot. I may be way off cause I know squat about tractors but have run into discussions on heat and timing of things with several different machines (Unimogs, Motorcycles, Injection Pumps etc.)
Now a potential heat related thing though is actually a lube issue. You may have oil... but is it getting distributed properly? Again though I dont know squat about tractors specific... but a bit from being around Unimogs and other machines. If PTO Gear box or something in the path to the gear box (inside tranny?) uses splash pockets to help distribute/feed lube oil to various spots like bushings/bearings/shafts etc..... are the pockets blocked with crud. Are the pathways that move the oil from the pocket to a shaft or its bushings/bearings blocked. Have heard of gearbox failures where oil was normal temps yet a bushing was not getting feed proper lube near the top of the box (it was indirectly splash fead). The shaft fed lube by that pocket and passage way would seeze eventually from heat expansion. Maybe something in yours expands (but not seizes) and stops the PTO from rotating any longer... as it cools... it shrinks allowing it to move again.
just some thoughts.
Now a potential heat related thing though is actually a lube issue. You may have oil... but is it getting distributed properly? Again though I dont know squat about tractors specific... but a bit from being around Unimogs and other machines. If PTO Gear box or something in the path to the gear box (inside tranny?) uses splash pockets to help distribute/feed lube oil to various spots like bushings/bearings/shafts etc..... are the pockets blocked with crud. Are the pathways that move the oil from the pocket to a shaft or its bushings/bearings blocked. Have heard of gearbox failures where oil was normal temps yet a bushing was not getting feed proper lube near the top of the box (it was indirectly splash fead). The shaft fed lube by that pocket and passage way would seeze eventually from heat expansion. Maybe something in yours expands (but not seizes) and stops the PTO from rotating any longer... as it cools... it shrinks allowing it to move again.
just some thoughts.
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So as someone else mentioned earlier, i am also not familiar with your particular machine,but this appears to be an electrical problem.
Possibly a circuit breaker tripping.
The description of 20-30 minutes before it kicks off has me thinking.
A solenoid or clutch coil drawing too much current- breaker trips.
Once cooled it resets. First run would be longer, as its at ambient temp. A good test light and jumpers would make this task a little easier to find. Testing power at source right down the line to relays/ solenoids. I use a power probe for tasks like this as it will test power and ground with one tool.
If i am way off base, one of the knowledgeable gentlemen will chime in to set us straight.
Possibly a circuit breaker tripping.
The description of 20-30 minutes before it kicks off has me thinking.
A solenoid or clutch coil drawing too much current- breaker trips.
Once cooled it resets. First run would be longer, as its at ambient temp. A good test light and jumpers would make this task a little easier to find. Testing power at source right down the line to relays/ solenoids. I use a power probe for tasks like this as it will test power and ground with one tool.
If i am way off base, one of the knowledgeable gentlemen will chime in to set us straight.
I think your close to the mark, and it seems to me that is some kind of check-valve that holds pressure might be leaking and the hotter the fluid the faster it leaks. Is there something like a check vlave in there?? and could that be the problem.
North Idaho Wolfman
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You have one of 2 problems, Bad, worn seals on the clutch pack, bad or worn seals on the hydraulic control valve.
My money is on a bad seal in the hydraulic clutch pack.
You need to take some pressure measurements to find out where the problem really is.
When the clutch is kicking out can you lift the deck normally?
My money is on a bad seal in the hydraulic clutch pack.
You need to take some pressure measurements to find out where the problem really is.
When the clutch is kicking out can you lift the deck normally?
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I didn't try the lift but I think the clutch pack is the problem. It seems to me that the problem is a leak somewhere in the system.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Trying the lift at the time when the PTO fails will tell you if it's an overall hydraulic failure or just the PTO clutch circuit failure.
The leak is in the Clutch seals if it has a leak.
This machine uses the charge pump for the hydrostat for hydraulic pressure hence it does not have a lot of jam. It does have a relief which controls the hydraulic pressure to the pto and the deck lift. If your deck lift is getting weak then you can assume that either the relief is weak or hydraulics are getting weak. If it is just the pto then it will be the clutch pack. Most likely the pto clutch.