new to forum - l225 brakes and hydraulic fluid questions

[twomanyprojects]

Hi there! Just joined the forum, as I have bought an L225 (mid 70's) Kubota for my father-in-law. Long story, but he has a '56 Ford (original owner) with a front end loader, which unfortunately requires him to climb over the back end of the tractor - and he is 90 years old! The pump broke and I have been reluctant to fix it for obvious reasons.

Question - I removed the right brake cover and the C-clip, but I would expect the drum to slip off. Any suggestions?

Hydraulic fluid - I'm working on replacing the fluid, especially in the backhoe - anything special for an old Kubota, other than generic "tractor fluid"?

Thanks

Frank

 

[Butch]

Me personally... I like the super udt fluid for the HSD. It is much more forgiving although more pricier than the standard UDT fluid. The synthethics preserve the fluid under stressful conditions thus preserving the tractor components. The only reason I know this is because my neighbor is a petroleum engineer for Mobil... a specialist on oil base additatives....

Smart people look for people that are smartewr than they are to get ahead in this world....

Butch

 

[traildust]

Smart people look for people that are smartewr than they are to get ahead in this world....

Butch, I'm still looking. Do you know any



Scott

 

[aquaforce]

Hi there! Just joined the forum, as I have bought an L225 (mid 70's) Kubota for my father-in-law. Long story, but he has a '56 Ford (original owner) with a front end loader, which unfortunately requires him to climb over the back end of the tractor - and he is 90 years old! The pump broke and I have been reluctant to fix it for obvious reasons.

Question - I removed the right brake cover and the C-clip, but I would expect the drum to slip off. Any suggestions?

Hydraulic fluid - I'm working on replacing the fluid, especially in the backhoe - anything special for an old Kubota, other than generic "tractor fluid"?

Thanks

Frank

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the orange tractor.

I did my dry brakes on my L175 which is the same as the L225 and I can't remember what held the drum. Did you see something like a shaft bolt or "C" clip on the center shaft of the drum? I think there is something that keeps the drum in place so it doesn't get into the cover but once the retaining method is released, Yes, the drum should slide off.
If the shoes are grooved into the drum then the linkage can be loosened or removed to let the shoes return all the way and slide the drum off.
Maybe rap the outside edge of the drum with a brass hammer to rock it slightly or loosen it on the shaft and it should slide off.

As far as brakes go, you can spend a lot of money for the original frictions which are really outdated in todays technology, or, have a brake lining shop reline the old shoes for you. I had mine relined with a much better material that stops this thing far better (a lot less foot pressure needed) for only $20.


Yes, regular tractor fluid is adequate. You can upgrade to modern fluid if you want more protection there too.


Show us some pics............. we like pics here

.

 

[twomanyprojects]

I have removed the C-clip from the splined shaft, but the drum is not loose at all. Have tapped it with a hammer, pryed on it, soaked it in Kroil, still no affect. I don't think it is hanging up on the shoes, because if I pry between the drum and the backing plate, I can see the backing plate and shoes move in relation to the drum, but the drum and the splined shaft remain locked.

Does the brake drum have a large spline area which has possibly rusted to the shaft? They seem quite locked together.

Thanks

Frank.

 

[twomanyprojects]

Let me see if this attachment works. This should be the right brake drum.

Frank

 

[Bulldog]

If you want the very best oil to protect your investment try Amsoil synthetic oil. It is expensive but the protection you will gain far exceeds the price of the oil. It will run smoother, quieter, and cooler than ever before.

 

[JWB]

If you want the very best oil to protect your investment try Amsoil synthetic oil. It is expensive but the protection you will gain far exceeds the price of the oil. It will run smoother, quieter, and cooler than ever before.

Welcome to the forum, rotella oil is also a very good oil and less pricey.
Try heat (mild heat) at the connection between the shaft and drum followed by a quick shot of lube then vibration. Like from a burp gun (air chisel ) with a flat bit. I find some vibrations to the end of the shaft help break up the grip that the rust has and works the lube into the tight places.
JWB

 

[aquaforce]

Does the brake drum have a large spline area which has possibly rusted to the shaft? They seem quite locked together.

Thanks

Frank.

I believe the drum is splined onto that shaft. Mine was not stuck so I can't give a method that I used. It just slid off pretty easily.

 

[twomanyprojects]

Yes looks like a simple spline mount for the drum and it should slide off after removal of the "C" clip, however is seems frozen tight - after a week of Kroil, hammering, prying, a little heat and even cussing, not so much as a wiggle. It's tight. I don't know what further to do. I have to put this away for a while, but will get back to it in a week or so.

Any other suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks

Frank

 

[traildust]

The only thing it can be is the shoes are still contacting the drum.
Somehow you are going to have to release the pressure of the shoes off the drum.

You are describing the exact situation that a car with drum brakes exhibits until the shoes are adjusted inward.

Ok, here is stupid question: Is the parking brake released on the tractor?

Scott

 

[traildust]

After looking at your picture I have another question. See the area I red circled. Is that brake linkage and can it be disconnected to relieve pressure on the shoes?

Scott

 

[twomanyprojects]

>The only thing it can be is the shoes are still contacting the drum.<

No, I don't think so, as I can see behind the drum. The shoes are retracted, as they are worn enough that it takes a lot of brake pedal travel to get them to work. In fact, the adjustment is at it's full amount, and there is still a lot of pedal travel.

If it were the shoes holding up the drum, I still should be able to wiggle the brake drum on the splined shaft. With the "C" clip removed, I get no motion what so ever between the two. If I pry on the back of the drum against the backing plate, the whole thing flexes on the shaft as a unit. It acts like it is frozen solid to the shaft.

I think my next step is to remove the tire and fender and put a large gear puller on the drum and apply some real pressure on that drum. I will check again to make sure the shoes are not hanging up. If it doesn't come off with pressure, Kroil and heat, then if I brake the drum, so be it, at least I can get it off and buy a new one.

Nothing like a little challenge.........http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif

I wont be able to get back to it for a couple of weeks.

Someday I'll get this tractor to my 90 year old father-in-law.

Thank you all for the help.

Frank

 

[traildust]

Thank you for the reply.

One small word of caution about applying heat. Be very careful about focusing too much heat as there may be seals, o-rings and gaskets out of view that will not like it.

Out of frustration, I have been there and done that. After discovering what I did I reqreted ever applying the heat. Nothing was discovered until everything was back together and engine running.

Just be careful


Scott

 

[aquaforce]

If you can't get the drum to rock on the shaft then the puller idea may be your only way off.


Heat and chemical and vibration (hammer) might help but if not then bring out the puller.


I guess the gasket must have let some moisture get in there. Mine is a little older than this tractor and both sides slid right off. Of courst the can was a pain to get off the drum because the gasket was sealed well.


Good luck