L175 Axle Problem

[In Utopia]

Well, yesterday started off with my 3 point not wanting to go down, OK I'll check on it as soon as I dump this load of caliche from the loader.
While going down the road I noticed the hood not mating up with the dash as it should. Looked down and saw a separation of the front axle assembly and the motor block, not good.
Found broken and stretched bolts, oh boy.
Soon realized the front end had to come off. Started that, but the first problem was disconnecting the drag links from the steering arms. Is the safe to assume that it's a taper fit and will require a "pickle fork"? My manual simply says "remove it".
After pulling out one of the shorter bolts which was stretched and finding one of the longer ones broken with the body frozen in the housing it soon became apparent that this was going to be a helicoil repair on all holes. Thought is to go back with 7/16" standard grade 8 bolts instead of metric. Wondering which would be better, standard or SAE threads.

Also is there a better source of parts diagrams other than Messicks? The pictures are so distorted I can't make anything out.

Any input on any of this "surgery" would be appreciated.

 

[Daren Todd]

If you go back to where your steering linkage meets the arm by the fuel tank. It's easier to take it apart there. Loosen up the nut. Do not take the nut all the way off. Put something behind the steering arm to support it and then hit the nut with a hammer. It's a press fit, but after a few taps it should come out you can get a free pdf down load for your tractor from www.kubotabooks.com if you pm me, i got the parts manual and service manual in pdf form

 

[In Utopia]

If you go back to where your steering linkage meets the arm by the fuel tank. It's easier to take it apart there. Loosen up the nut. Do not take the nut all the way off. Put something behind the steering arm to support it and then hit the nut with a hammer. It's a press fit, but after a few taps it should come out

That's where I was trying, no luck.
Was going to put some heat on it, but some dummie forgot to turn his acetylene
bottle off, and my supplier was closed and won't be open till Monday.

 

[Daren Todd]

That really sucks i pulled my front end last week, so i could fix an oil pressure issue. Tried a 2x4 on it and that didn't work, was too soft. I ended up wedging a 2ft pipe wrench in there, i held the wrench and pops smacked it. Took some doing but we finally got it. I don't envy you having to pull and replace those studs on the front end.

 

[In Utopia]

Finally got it apart with a homemade pickle fork, now the fun starts.

 

[D2Cat]

Your question on threads, fine or course?

I copied this from a machinist forum. Much more info then you need but it might help someone else also. And part of their discussion was use of fine threads in plastic.

The answer is a variable. It is based on the material used for both the screw and the threaded hole. Rather than get into the technical aspects, let me throw an example out there that is easy to visualize.

Lets say we use a plastic screw. We know that the bigger the diameter, the more load it will hold as a given-- right ? The reason is the root diameter is the failure point of the screw. smaller diameters have less strength. We know by looking at a thread chart for the same size OD screw, that a course thread has a smaller root than a fine thread. Therefore a fine thread screw will always be stronger than a course thread. Putting it another way, the cross-sectional area is larger, and can take more load before failure. So the plastic screw is better..well, steel applies the same way....as it is stronger when a fine thread.

Lets look at the hole. Unlike a screw, the Major diameter never changes --so put on your thinking cap here as we are doing pure conceptual thought
What if I drilled two same size holes and told you to tap them but your taps could have different OD's , like a 5/16-25 or a 3/8 17 (imaginary now)
Both threads have the same root diameter (Drilled hole) but one can be bigger. Obviously , the bigger screw thread(3/8's) has more holding power, since it engages a larger cross-sectional area of the hole and the threaded hole is better off with the larger OD. Now the reason I showed you this is to understand the concept of the importance of diameters .

However, in the real world, we do not do the above, except in very custom operations. So when you have two materials to be fastened,the materials control the thread. If the screw is stronger, like a steel screw in Aluminum/Plastice, you want a course thread to give the hole maximum material, as the screw can withstand the load. Now, if the screw is weaker, then you want it in fine thread to give it strength (larger cross-section at the root). This is seen in harden steel dies among other things, as a standard .

Please be aware that "engagement length" is also a heavy factor, but I wanted to address the major criteria for the poster.

Putting it another way, if both screw and hole are the same material, and we assume one diameter engagement (important), the screw will fail slightly before the hole because the pitch diameter is slightly smaller, regardless of thread

 

[Daren Todd]

Good luck with it have you had to replace the camshaft plug in your tractor? Just got the engine put pack together on mine after having to replace that plug. Found the old plug and it looked like a big pop rivet. Fixing to get the front end back on here in a little bit. Hoping like hell that that i don't find any more issues when i start it back up. Previous owners aparently been running it for 10 plus years, with low oil pressure

 

[D2Cat]

Daren, how you replacing the plug? You're talking about the one in the end of the camshaft?

Dealers suggest disassembling the engine. You can remove the radiator and front cover off the engine and weld a tapered roller bearing in the hole. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD GROUND!

The hole was plugged with an alum. plug and after a few years of temperature differentials the aluminum got ejected. And so there goes your oil pressure.

I got an oil pressure gauge from Harley Davidson (built for outdoor use) and made a bracket down by the left side under the dash by the shift decal. Then I knew and didn't rely on a light bulb (which I think comes on at 7#).

 

[Daren Todd]

I'll start a thread on what i did, don't want to hijack this one

 

[In Utopia]

Getting back to work on it after helping a neighbor cut down a tree. Are there any hidden bolts, or are they all expose including the studs. It started to move, but I'm guessing it's still tight on the what look like the alignment dowels.

Having a loader in front, Sort of restricts how far I can pull it forward but I'm going to do it.

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

 

[In Utopia]

Does the axle pivot pin screw into the front housing or the motor block?
Tried splitting,something the won't let go. Don't know if it's rust around the studs or the pivot pin holding it.
If it is the pin it looks like a bear to get out.

Also thanks for the link to the PDF files.

 

[In Utopia]

Victory is mine, finally got it apart.
Rust around the bottom studs had it captured.
Got it from here.

Thanks to all who took time to reply.

 

[Daren Todd]

There's five bolts and 2 alignment pins. One bolt on the left side, 2 stacked on the right hand side, and 2 under the radiator all are easy to get too

 

[In Utopia]

There's five bolts and 2 alignment pins. One bolt on the left side, 2 stacked on the right hand side, and 2 under the radiator all are easy to get too

Got it.
Drilling out the two on top that broke, got a Helicoil set coming.