I have a 2009 MS108S with a quick hitch installed. I use a 4 row Case IH planter for sweet corn and soybeans, the problem is the 3 point hitch will not lift the planter high enough for the closing wheels to clear the ground enough to turn around. The planter has to be level to work well, so I have to adjust to top link out for good seed placement. The 3 point lifts about 4 inches higher with nothing attached to it than when it does with the planter. The tractor should have plenty of power to lift the planter. Had to switch to a JD 6420 to finish planting beans. Any suggestions? I do not have a manual with the tractor. Thanks!
3 point hitch lift problem
- Thread starter jtzk
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Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
If you have multiple holes where the upper link attaches to the tractor, you may want to use a different hole...
I can't recall which one will help lift it higher, but you should be able to search that.
I can't recall which one will help lift it higher, but you should be able to search that.
I agree with Russell. Attaching centerlink to lowest hole on tractor bracket will give the most height. You could possibly also carefully adjust feedback rod to attain higher lift height.
A "Top" of a Top&Tilt hydraulic 3PH system can do wonders for making that adjustment. Retract the cylinder for moving, extend it for leveling the implement.
As Tx Jim suggests, the 3PH limiting lever can be adjusted a bit. Here it is on a M7040. Not sure about your tractor. Be careful not to adjust it too far or the FEL quits working correctly (the pump goes into relief).
Since the 3PH lifts higher without an implement, the limiting lever is probably not the issue but it is worth a try.
As Tx Jim suggests, the 3PH limiting lever can be adjusted a bit. Here it is on a M7040. Not sure about your tractor. Be careful not to adjust it too far or the FEL quits working correctly (the pump goes into relief).
Since the 3PH lifts higher without an implement, the limiting lever is probably not the issue but it is worth a try.
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gpreuss
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I don't know about the weight involved, but the quick hitch does move the load back about 4". If the unit is heavy enough, that will make a huge difference, I would take off the quick hitch at least once, just to give it a try.
I believe the manual also says that for heavy implements you want to use the bottom of the 3 top link holes?
I believe the manual also says that for heavy implements you want to use the bottom of the 3 top link holes?
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Thanks for the replies, I do have the top link in the bottom hole. I'm thinking the quick hitch may be the problem, if it would lift to planter as high as it does with nothing attached I would be fine, just puzzling why it doesn't, maybe the planter is heavier than I thought. I'm thinking a hydraulic top link would be the easiest solution and keep my quick hitch. Anyone use one? Any suggestions?
The "Top" of a T&T would solve the problem in an instant (as mentioned in my previous post).
In fact, if I ever buy another tractor (God forbid!) a T&T will be the first thing that goes on it regardless of size.
Out of curiosity, are the vertical lift arms connected to the horizontal lift arms in the top-most hole of the vertical lift arms? And are those vertical arms connected to the rear-most holes of the horizontal lift arms? (Geez, I'm confusing myself!).
Depending on your uses, you might consider shortening the non-adjustable lift link and then shorten the adjustable side. Or make a new left lifting link just for certain uses. Of course it takes some cutting and welding. Look at the ratio of lengths from the pivot to those lift links and then out to the wheel to be lifted. It may only take an inch of shortening to affect the change of many inches out there.