B6100DT 3ph cylinder

[MahalKo]

I recently changed the ring and o-ring on my hydraulic lift piston. After re-assembly, I now have a slow leak from the bottom of the cylinder cap when the unit is under pressure (lifting).

My plan is to remove the cylinder cap again, then replace the o-rings
(#96319-01410) and (#04811-00160).

Questions: What is the proper torque (ft/lbs) for the four cylinder cap bolts? Is there a torque sequence?

I will also closley inspect the cylinder cap for cracks, or other damage, etc.

If there is no damage to the cap, can I use a silicon gasket sealer around the rim of the cap to prevent leakage?

Any advice would be greatly apreciated. Thanks

 

[traildust]

I recently changed the ring and o-ring on my hydraulic lift piston. After re-assembly, I now have a slow leak from the bottom of the cylinder cap when the unit is under pressure (lifting).

My plan is to remove the cylinder cap again, then replace the o-rings
(#96319-01410) and (#04811-00160).

Questions: What is the proper torque (ft/lbs) for the four cylinder cap bolts? Is there a torque sequence?

I will also closley inspect the cylinder cap for cracks, or other damage, etc.

If there is no damage to the cap, can I use a silicon gasket sealer around the rim of the cap to prevent leakage?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I'm just gonna take a stab at this but you probably already know it.

First for the torques and sequence. Do you by chance have a WSM (work shop manual) If it does not specifically call for torques then look for the chart with standard torque values and by default use those on the fasteners. For the sequence I would spin them down finger tight then alternate criss-cross cutting the torque in thirds working your way to the finale torque. Thus insuring an even seat of the matting surfaces.

For the sealant under the cap. I don't think it would hurt as long as you don't go excessive, just a small bead. Use the kind that will not harden when dry.

You posted this a few days ago. Have you come up with anything in that time?


Scott

 

[B7100]

It says in my WM that the lift cover bolts should be 39-45Nm or 29-33 ft lbs .there is a large "O" ring seal which the cover tightens on to so if you did not replace it,I would.
It does not say in the WM about sequence but if you stick to Scotts suggestion you won't go far wrong!
Good luck

Dave

 

[traildust]

It says in my WM that the lift cover bolts should be 39-45Nm or 29-33 ft lbs .there is a large "O" ring seal which the cover tightens on to so if you did not replace it,I would.
It does not say in the WM about sequence but if you stick to Scotts suggestion you won't go far wrong!
Good luck

Dave

Dave, a big thank you for digging up the actual values and posting a great follow up


Scott

 

[MahalKo]

Update:
I removed the cylinder cap and found that the small o-ring under the diverter valve had fallen off during the first installation

I wiped everything clean, installed a new o-ring on the cylinder cap, made sure the small o-ring was in place, and put it all back together. Now it does not leak. (I did not apply any RTV gasket material).

My local Kubota dealer quoted me $300 with a 3-week wait for this repair. I fixed it myself in one afternoon with $28 in parts. Granted, I had to take the cap off twice, but the 3 ph now lifts and holds very well.

Thanks again to SD Vic and guys at Orange Tractor talks!

 

[traildust]

Congratulations on your fix

There is noting like the feeling of self pride you get from fixing your own machines. You did good!



Scott

 

[cappys tractor]

Good for you to get er done! One issue I have had on reassembly is the cover oring is easily torn or pinched and ripped when re assembling it. I had the take it off and put a new one in twice until I got the hang of correctly squarely re inserting the cover/cap into the piston housing.