bucket cylinder rebuild

[santa cruz]

Any ideas?

I have a BF 350 loader mounted on a 8200. Vintage maybe 1983-ish. The bucket rams are leaking and are the type that have a circlip holding back the end cap. Normally one presses back the endcap, pop out the circlip and you are ready to tear it down. My caps will not move at all. 12 tons of press force will not budge them. Cyl cost $1,600 thats' not a route this old tractor can go.

Has any one retrofitted other rams to work, Northern tool rams seem cheap at $300 compared to Kubota. But it looks like a lot of modification will be in order to do that.

Mike

 

[Bulldog]

Have you tried taking the cylinders to a local hyd shop. They may know a trick or two that you don't as far as getting the rams apart. It might be worth a try anyway.

 

[D2Cat]

Mike I have an '85 B8200 with the same loader. I rebuilt all my cylinders last year.

Here's what the WSM says: 1.Drain hydraulic oil from the cylinder and secure in a vise. 2. Tap snap ring holder in the direction of the arrow (which is away from the eye end, where the pin was), insert a sharp edge under the snap ring's notch to life, and remove it. 3. Pull out the cylinder rod assy. from the cylinder tube.

That's exactly what i did. Tap the holder in and then find what ever you can to get under/behind the snap ring to get it started up. Takes more patience then power!

I then took the cylinder rams and tubes to a local hydraulic repair shop. They had to order the metric "O" rings in and it took a day. Total cost per cyl. was less then $30, I'm pretty sure. But this meant they were ready to install and I didn't have to be concerned about snagging an "O" ring upon reassembly.

Just be patient!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you really can't get them to be rebuilt, Baileys can build you a set that will match yours exactly for much cheaper than $1600.

 

[santa cruz]

Actually I did try the local shop, a one man operation but has a decent rep. he is the one that used a 12 ton press and gave up. So either I either I find a different shop or do it myself. I will make a two piece ring to fit around the shaft and then bang on the rod with a considerable hammer and see what breaks first. Pretty sketchy but tapping on it seems to be not enough. Thanks guys
oh regarding Baileys ...who are they actually, sounds promising.

 

[al b]

If it is suppose to push back? I haven't seen one. maybe some heat and penetrating oil and the tractor hydraulic pressure and hammer. Take the bucket off, get a short piece of pipe the size of the ram that will clear the cir-clip, cut it in half the long way, put the two halves around the ram, secure them together with something, use the tractor hydraulics to push in the ram back in putting pressure on the cap and securing it in place then use a piece of hard wood on the ram eye and hit it with big hammer?

I see you already said that. Good luck.
www.Baileynet.com

 

[santa cruz]

Thanks....good idea about using the tractor hyd power. Should of thought of that. The heat aspect worries me only because the high heat I would need will destroy the plastics and rubber stuff inside. I may try another shop first and as a back up I did visit Baileys site. Nice prices and looks to be the best site around. An off the shelf generic loader ram might just fit with some modifications.... and at those prices dang cheap repair.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You CAN NOT use the hydralic pressure to move the block on the end.
Think about it, how does the cylinder move back... Fluid... and that fluid is between the end and the piston inside, so the pressure of the fluid inside would make it impossible to remove the end.
That end only moves a millimeter at most on some rams, you need to just pry the clip out on most models.
Clean the end completely, remove anything, paint, rust, dirt, debris, soak the end in CLR to help remove all the scaled in rust on the clip and the ram.

 

[auctioneer dave]

Baileys in Knoxville tn I replaced both the tilt cylinders on my fel for $240.00 for both cylinders. I ordered them at 10:00 on morning and had them by fed ex the next morning. They work great

 

[Bulldog]

I would like to see some pics of these cylinders. All the ones I have worked on the end caps screw off. I would like to see them just for my own knowledge.

 

[al b]

You CAN NOT use the hydralic pressure to move the block on the end.
Think about it, how does the cylinder move back... Fluid... and that fluid is between the end and the piston inside, so the pressure of the fluid inside would make it impossible to remove the end.
That end only moves a millimeter at most on some rams, you need to just pry the clip out on most models.
Clean the end completely, remove anything, paint, rust, dirt, debris, soak the end in CLR to help remove all the scaled in rust on the clip and the ram.

Good catch. I did not think about that.