I'm about to do a 50 hr. service on my L3800 dt. My question is, although Kubota suggests only changing the transmission/hydraulic filter, then topping off the fluid, does anyon see the need or importance to drain the remainder of the fluid and replacing it ? Also, to just top it off, did my tractor come with UDT or SUDT oil ? Just wondering how much of the new tractor break in, metal shavings, the filter magnet has caught ? What ya think ?
To drain or not to drain ?
- Thread starter buckaroo52
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Damn good question!
I too am in the same boat, i changed my hydraulic filter at 50 hours, but here before summer comes, i will place some SUDT in it ( fluid change - see if it is any quieter ), I am almost 95% sure it came with UDT, thats what she gave me when i bought the filter.......
My bx2370 is sitting at just a tad over 49 hours on it, started today by changing the oil (used rotella 15w40) and filter. I got called to work so I didn't get to hydro yet. A few weeks back I stopped by the dealer and bought the filters (oil, hydro, and fuel), dealer said mine came with sudt so I bought that as well, when I get home from work it will get changed as well. I am not sure that the fluid really needs changed (looks very clean), but thought I would error on the side of caution, and change it as well. I am pretty sure the manual recommends this service at 50 hours, but am not 100% sure. I also have both fuel filters on hand, and will change them as well....I haven't had any issues yet(except gelling up once in sub zero temps) and would like to keep it that way.
gpreuss
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L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I reckon the first 50 hr is the most important maintenance you will do. I had the dealer do it. His mechanic came out and changed everything, checked everything. Retorqued the wheel bolts, hub bolts, spacer bolts, ROPS bolts and FEL mount bolts. Greased everything. Replaced All the fluids and filters. Took about three hours of steady work.
On the BX make sure you pull the filter screen in the rear end too.. when I did mine there was a bunch of crud in it,, the oil looked clean and smelled good so I was not concerned until I pulled that screen out and all kinds of stuff came out, Make sure you have a big bucket under there cause trust me the juice pours out.. Pinch off the fuel line when you do the filters and make sure while your under there to pop some grease in any fitting you can find I guess the newer ones don't have as many fittings, and make sure you pump some grease in the fitting for your tram pedals too
I did not drain completely on my L3200 HST - I did change the filter, quite a bit of metal "bits" on the magnet. No worries though, that is what the filter is for and as well why Kubota installs a magnet on the trans filter, to catch various manufacturing debris.
David
David
I couldn't agree more. All my new Kubotas listed a Full service @ 50hrs. Filters with magnets or not the hyd fluid was still shiny with small metal particle. I would never run the factory oil over the 50hr mark after seeing what came out of my tractors. You never know what has been left behind during the assembly and the longer it's left in there the higher the chance it will cause wear.
Now my 2nd full service the oil and filters were clean and by all rights the oil could have been left in the tractor without any problems. This is only my opinion but to me the cost of service is always cheaper the the coat of repair.
Just wondering. The manual for my B3350 says to drain the trans to change the filter. Does yours? If the oil level is above the filter and I am sure it is, how would you manage to change the filter without gushing fluid all over the place? Also if you drain the fluid to just change the filter you wouldn't put it back in. too much chance for contamination.
DM
DM
Well today I bought engine oil and kubota oil filter and trans./hyd. filter for my L3800. Service rep. also recommended changing front axle fluid also. Trans./hyd. filter had a fair amount of metal shavings on the magnet, and I only lost about a quart of fluid during the filter swap. I drained the engine oil completely, and the filter. The manual said. 7 1/2 quarts with filter change, I bought 2 gallons of oil, poured out 1/2 of a qt. and dumped the rest in. Ran the engine for 10 minutes, checked filter for leaks, then checked oil level only to find oil level about 3/4 qt. over filled. Drained some out to full level. Dealer suggested Super UDT 2 for the front axle. Upon draining it I found 80w-90 gear oil in the front axle, pulled both drain plugs and the fill plug, and check level plug to drain...took freaking forever to drain the sucker ! I noticed in the owners manual that either fluid is acceptable. Seems odd, the difference between synthetic oil and 80w-90 gear oil is huge. Hopefully my front axle enjoys this drastic change of fluids. So has anyone actually put 7 1/2 qts. engine oil in your L3800, and what type oil have you found in your front axle ? And yes, I pulled both drain plugs on the oil pan.
If it was me i would change the oil?? i'd use super udt2 and all filters. This is the most important oil change for any machine, why be cheap trying to save a few dollars.
I didn't change the trans fluid in mine. Filter just had fine metal fuzz on magnet. I will change the front axle soon with 80/90.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
My manual says to change the trans./hyd. fluid at 400 hrs. As clean as it appeared when I changed the filter, I will wait to do that, @ $22..28 per gallon, 8 gallons figures in at $178.24 ! Still wish I had put 80/90 gear oil back in the front axle instead of the SUDT2 ...so thin, just seems so wrong for a gear pot ?
Concerning the front axle fluid...
I asked two different techs at two different dealerships in two different parts of the country and got the same answer:
When new-ish use the UDT / SUDT and when it gets older and / or seals leak a little bit start using 80 / 90 gear lube. When re-do the seals, go back to UDT / SUDT to start the process again.
Neither tech had any concern about the gears themselves receiving adequate lubrication to function without failure.
I don't know the "correct" answer, but in my two machines one has UDT and one has gear lube; both are working and neither leaks.
I'm curious what this forum community thinks on this topic.
I asked two different techs at two different dealerships in two different parts of the country and got the same answer:
When new-ish use the UDT / SUDT and when it gets older and / or seals leak a little bit start using 80 / 90 gear lube. When re-do the seals, go back to UDT / SUDT to start the process again.
Neither tech had any concern about the gears themselves receiving adequate lubrication to function without failure.
I don't know the "correct" answer, but in my two machines one has UDT and one has gear lube; both are working and neither leaks.
I'm curious what this forum community thinks on this topic.
Same here, the trans fluid in mine was crystal clear & no sparkle. I'll change that at 400 hrs.
Don't worry about the front axle. SUDT2 will lube just fine. If/when the seals start to leak, change back to 80/90 and/or replace the seals.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Yeah - if my little tractor held as much SUDT2 as your tractors hold, I'd probably stretch it longer too.
I planned to do the HST at 50 - just decided to dump the axle too for what little it holds.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I should have added that I bought my BX2360 new a year ago.
Since the '60 is a leftover model, I wasn't sure how long it was sitting outside on the sales lot.
Was also an effort to eliminate any water/moisture in the HST and front axle.
(I wanted the '60 because the ROPS is much shorter and narrow compared to the BX2370 - price was a little better, too)
Plus, Skeets has one!
Since the '60 is a leftover model, I wasn't sure how long it was sitting outside on the sales lot.
Was also an effort to eliminate any water/moisture in the HST and front axle.
(I wanted the '60 because the ROPS is much shorter and narrow compared to the BX2370 - price was a little better, too)
Plus, Skeets has one!
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Wow! My little buggy won't use that much fluid for 10 years!Try changing a M series. My 9000 holds 20 or 22 gallons of fluid and the last hyd filters I bought were $55 each.
At least in this modern era, fluids last much longer than the ol' days.
As you often say, it is pretty cheap compared to repairs.
That's why good stuff like Amsoil or SUDT2 is worth the price!