B219 loader cylinder rebuild

[TxRzrBk]

That being the case...I was able to take the o-ring and seal specifications to rocketseal dot com and locate all of the necessary seals to rebuild the cylinders. Total cost for all 4 cylinders is about $45 which includes $15 for shipping. Not surprising, the oil seals are by far the most costly item at about $6 each. I am going to pull the trigger on this and post an update with how it works out, if all goes well i'll also share the part numbers as it is a pain to track down everything required.

 

[Lil Foot]

if all goes well i'll also share the part numbers as it is a pain to track down everything required.

I'd appreciate that, thanks!

 

[TxRzrBk]

Got the seals in and am ready to tackle it. As far as getting them apart does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[TxRzrBk]

Hoping someone who has attempted this can answer a couple of questions.

From the diagram above, when I pulled the oil seal (#11) the lower lip remained in the channel and I am having trouble getting it all out. This got me thinking maybe the head can be split such that the seal is clamped in place. Any input on this or how to get all of the old seal out and get the new one in would be appreciated .

#9 & #10 - parts list specifies this to be an o-ring and leather washer however what was in there is a plastic rod seal. Did anyone else find the same or is this maybe the result of the cylinder having been rebuilt before? Second, leather washers are not all too common these days so I was planning to use a backup ring that matches up to the 216 o-ring, I'll update with how this works out once things move forward.

 

[Big Kahuna]

It should all come out together, just give it a hard pull, that's how I got mine out.

Big Kahuna

 

[OldeEnglish]

Hoping someone who has attempted this can answer a couple of questions.

From the diagram above, when I pulled the oil seal (#11) the lower lip remained in the channel and I am having trouble getting it all out. This got me thinking maybe the head can be split such that the seal is clamped in place. Any input on this or how to get all of the old seal out and get the new one in would be appreciated .

#9 & #10 - parts list specifies this to be an o-ring and leather washer however what was in there is a plastic rod seal. Did anyone else find the same or is this maybe the result of the cylinder having been rebuilt before? Second, leather washers are not all too common these days so I was planning to use a backup ring that matches up to the 216 o-ring, I'll update with how this works out once things move forward.

I believe you #11 is the "squeegee" as some call it. Mine was a bear to get out but I believe I had to collapse it to get it out, I don't have a any fancy presses or anything. When I set the new one I used a brass set pin, any soft metal would work fine, just use a nice thin oil to lube it up and hit it evenly.

As far as the leather washers go I honestly don't remember what my cylinder had or what the kit came with.... All I know is the kits from kubota came with everything to replace it all with no extra parts left over. Everything should seperate for you by removing the lock nut. I didn't have the right socket so I clamped the nut in a vice and used a bar as a cheater to spin it off. Make sure to clean every part up with some Emory cloth and wash off any grime. Crud and seals don't mix very well.

 

[TxRzrBk]

Everything worked out great, it turned out the one cylinder that had been rebuilt had different parts than the others which is probably why it was leaking.

I was able to rebuild the cylinders for less than half the cost of the Kubota kits ($45 vs. $92). I got everything from rocketseals.com except for the oil seals, on the oil seals I wanted the Timken seals rather than SKF seals. Two tips #1 heat the lock nuts with a propane torch for about 1-2 minutes, this will soften the loctite #2 get a seal puller for the oil seals, if this doesnt work drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal, insert a screw and use it to pull them out.

Here is the parts list
#7 2-224 BUNA-7 BUNA-70 O-RING Qty=4
#8 8-224 BACK-UP Qty=4
#9 2-216 BUNA-7 BUNA-70 O-RING Qty=4
#10 (replaces leather washer) 8-216 BACK-UP Qty=4
#11 Timken 471652 or Oil Seal, CR 11130 (from rocketseals) Qty=4
#12 2-210 BUNA-7 BUNA-70 O-RING Qty=4
#13 8-326 BACK-UP Qty=8
#14 2-326 BUNA-7 BUNA-70 O-RING Qty=4

 

[TxRzrBk]

Quick update - the tractor has been used a fair amount and still not a drop leaking. One other note, in my area it is pretty easy to find a local Purvis bearing store and I believe they are able to get all of the necessary parts, I used Purvis for the Timken seals and they had them available within a half day and the price was competitive with any available alternative.

 

[seanbarr]

I've rebuilt the cylinders before with the seal kit from Messicks and I remember that one seal has to be oriented properly. I used all seals so something would be amiss if there's "extra's". Easy job too.

 

[Temblor]

Hello Turk999, Could you follow up on new maxim cylinder 288-314 ? I am considering a purchase of this cylinder for same loader. The chrome rod has some pitting on mine.
Are the Fittings the same? Did it bolt on ok?
I have one leak. Would it be OK to have OEM cylinder on one side and the Maxim brand on other side?
thanks

 

[Temblor]

Someone mentioned this on another page here: "the mountings look like they need a 1 7/8" bracket at each end because that's the frame width on the B219 FEL. I saw mention somewhere on this forum of a http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXIM-288-31...item3396fdfa53 Maxim 288-314 cylinder but the ned brackets won't fit" ??
Is this true?? are the brackets wrong on the 288-314 ?

 

[Temblor]

Looks to me that the $130 maxim Maxim WT Welded Cylinder: 2 Bore x 18 Stroke - 1.25 Rod Dia. SKU: #288314 Will NOT work as a replacement.
unless modified?
the pins on the Kubota are 5/8" thick (Approximately?)
The pins the 288314 are designed for are 1"
The brackets on the Kubota are 1-7/8" (Approximately, but the brackets on the 288314 are 2-1/4 & 2-3/4"

So these brackets on 288314 would have to be cut down (But not sure if the Barrel housing would clear?)
And would also need some type welded? to accommodate the 5/8" pins or modify/drill out kubota FEL to accommodate larger pins?

hope this saves someone some hassle

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can get the Bailey make you a perfect match set:

http://www.mobilehydraulics.com/#!hydraulic-cylinders/c236u

Or check this one:

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/Chief-LD-3000-PSI-Loader-Cylinders-1-1-2-x-16-1-Rod-Dia-

Or this might even be better:

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/product/14964

Or maybe this one:

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/product/14967

 

[CJN8]

When i rebuilt the FEL on my old B7200 I bought a small engine cylinder hone, welded an extension on it, and honed all four cylinders to take out the majority of the linear scratches and put a cross hatch back in them. Ran it for over a year before I sold the tractor and never a one drop of a leak. I also did this when I rebuilt the rear lift cylinder.

 

[Temblor]

I ended up ordering 15" of 1-1/8" Chrome steel Rod from supplier in Texas http://www.alloysandcomponents.com/chromerod.htm
Cost about $30.00 shipped.. took it to machine shop in Everett WA (Guy runs out of his back yard) he charged me $100 labor to duplicate the bent rod..
He even assembled it with seals for me and tested Cylinder ( I was planning on doing latter part myself)
Thanks for any help here... and thanks for a cool machine shop! Works great!
Cylinder/Hydraulic rebuild shops wanted like $300 minimum to do the same job.. I know they need to make a living.. but what can I say, this is a 80s Garden tractor.. I can not afford to spend $300+ for every cylinder rebuild.

 

[supergare]

I realize this is a dusty old thread (and probably old news to many of you), but in case the next guy with B219 FEL cylinder trouble stumbles in here as well, here's a link to Magister Hydraulics for a ($133) 2' bore x 8" stroke welded tang cylinder: https://www.magisterhyd.com/product/2inch-bore-x-8inch-stroke-tang-hydraulic-cylinder/

These cylinders fit nicely on the B219 tilt bucket, only requiring a couple of bushings to get from a 1" pin diameter on the clyinder to a Kubota 5/8" FEL bracket pin diameter.

The 8" stroke is 3.25" less than OEM, but the retracted length is 17" (same as OEM), and I think most debris is gonna fall out of the bucket when full extension is attained at 25". They are also just a hair beefier, but fitment seems OK so far. Is "fitment" a real word?

I also needed adapters for the NPT hose fittings (part# 6901-06-04 - 90° Elbow, 3/8" ORB Male x 1/4" NPSM Female Swivel). These were about 5 bucks each from Hydraulics Direct Website: https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/Default.asp

Both of the companies above had my parts delivered within three business days.

Caveat: I have only barely tested these replacement cylinders

 

[Sqyler]

I realize this is a dusty old thread (and probably old news to many of you), but in case the next guy with B219 FEL cylinder trouble stumbles in here as well, here's a link to Magister Hydraulics for a ($133) 2' bore x 8" stroke welded tang cylinder: https://www.magisterhyd.com/product/2inch-bore-x-8inch-stroke-tang-hydraulic-cylinder/

These cylinders fit nicely on the B219 tilt bucket, only requiring a couple of bushings to get from a 1" pin diameter on the clyinder to a Kubota 5/8" FEL bracket pin diameter.

The 8" stroke is 3.25" less than OEM, but the retracted length is 17" (same as OEM), and I think most debris is gonna fall out of the bucket when full extension is attained at 25". They are also just a hair beefier, but fitment seems OK so far. Is "fitment" a real word?

I also needed adapters for the NPT hose fittings (part# 6901-06-04 - 90° Elbow, 3/8" ORB Male x 1/4" NPSM Female Swivel). These were about 5 bucks each from Hydraulics Direct Website: https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/Default.asp

Both of the companies above had my parts delivered within three business days.

Caveat: I have only barely tested these replacement cylinders

So how are these cylinders working out? I am researching now what to replace them with or rebuild. Mine are leaking pretty good. Do you have recommendations for the larger lift cylinders?

 

[TheOldHokie]

So how are these cylinders working out? I am researching now what to replace them with or rebuild. Mine are leaking pretty good. Do you have recommendations for the larger lift cylinders?

Magister cylibders are fine. You just need to match retracted length, stroke, bore and pin size. You have some wiggle room on lengths.

Dan