L185 2wd have a few issues questions

[Ozziekubota67]

Hey guys I just picked up a older L185 2wd kubota 2 cyl and I love how much pull this small tractor has...

1st question is do I need a overrunning clutch adapter that goes between rotary cutter the PTO????

2nd question- if I get the tractor started ( very hard ) will run a ll day and if I turn off will start right back ... If it cools down when I try to start I get turn over but no start... Noticing bubbles around injectors heavily, I tested injector pump by loosening injector lines off top of injectors so that is good,

Since the injectors are leaking am I getting leak down=air in system????

Any help on both questions will help

 

[Gordon Jones]

The overriding clutch is what I put on my 1501-The same as your L185. It is much safer when you want to stop. G

 

[76_Bronco]

2nd question- if I get the tractor started ( very hard ) will run a ll day and if I turn off will start right back ... If it cools down when I try to start I get turn over but no start.

How long are you letting the glow plugs pre-heat before a cold start?

 

[Russell King]

I own a L185F also. There is some confusion that you may have.
The tractor has the overrun clutch built in. This is a "ratchet" device inside the tractor that will dive the PTO in one direction but let the implement free wheel when the clutch is pressed in. In other words you can stop the tractor with the clutch regardless of the implement you have. The PTO will be "disconnected" from the drive when the clutch is pushed.

There is an add on device for (really, really) old tractors.

See this video (thank to forum provider!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5-XUE09by4

There is a second type of device that is a slip clutch that reduces the possibility of damage to the PTO drive train and the implement. These are add on devices (sometimes they could be part of the PTO shaft of the implement). They are a pack of springs and friction plates that will slip if the torque requirement is too high (locked up implement, tiller into rock, mower blade into a stump...) You do not have to have one of these but it will help protect the implement and the tractor if you maintain it.

I have a L185F. The operators manual is available from Messick's. It may be available from the dealer (I would try there first since the Messicks is a photo copy). I have it in PDF if you want it that way (send a PM and let me know your e-mail address).

Here is how the clutch works on the tractor. If the PTO is not engaged, push the clutch in, put the tractor in a gear (hi or low speed range also selected) and release the clutch. Off you go, just like almost everything else in the world.

If you want the PTO engaged (in gear) and not move the tractor; push the clutch in (tractor should be stopped) and put the PTO selector into gear (1=540 PTO RPM, 2nd and 3rd are higher speeds you will probably never use). Leave the transmission gears in neutral. Release the clutch and the PTO will start turning. Stay away from the engaged PTO - it wants to kill you and is always trying to come up with a new way to do it!

IF you want to combine PTO and movement; Push in clutch, put both transmission and PTO in gear. Release clutch and you will move and the PTO will rotate. Push in the clutch and the power is removed from the PTO and the transmission. You can

For example when I am using the shredder (brush hog, rotary cutter...) I will set the engine RPM to the mark on the tachometer (~2500 RPM?) put the PTO in gear, transmission in neutral, release the clutch and the shredder will come up to speed. Push clutch in, put transmission into gear, release clutch and off you go mowing! To stop just push in clutch and the tractor will stop but the implement will take a while to coast down to zero RPM.

Hope this helps and is not too much useless information.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As far as the bubbles around the injectors, Yes that can make it hard to start too, most have 2 copper washers on the injectors and taper fit on the lines.
Try tightening the injectors but if that fails get new copper washers.

 

[Russell King]

Got so involved in #1 that I did not talk about #2!

Do you know how to use the glow plugs and the compression release?

Start sequence I use -
Turn the key on. Turn the starter lever CCW and hold it there for a few seconds (10 to 30). Pull the compression release knob and turn the start lever CW. When engine spins up to speed (2-3 seconds) push in the compression release knob. Engine should start.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Make sure you have a fully juiced or brand new battery too. This time of year cold weather can wreak havoc on batteries. One that has some age on it and is kinda wobbly can make it harder to start engines, especially diesels. You need something with 850+CCA

 

[Ozziekubota67]

Thanks guy!!! i di not know if the tractor had internal... My key starts the tractor but it does have a black spin dial thing on the right, the black dial does not start it so maybe the old owner wired straight to a key????

You all are very helpful on here!!!!!

key is on the right and that black knob on the right>????? please shed some light

 

[Ozziekubota67]

its weird... the keys starts it but then i cant shut off... I have the mess with throttle down and let it die( not the best way) this is new to me so please help

 

[olthumpa]

its weird... the keys starts it but then i cant shut off... I have the mess with throttle down and let it die( not the best way) this is new to me so please help

Do you have a red knob 6 - 8 inches below the key? If you do, the knob is connected to linkage that connects to the injection pump. When you want to stop the engine turn the key off and pull the red knob back until the engine stops.

 

[Ozziekubota67]

maybe some pics??? no i dont think so.. Only wonder is a have a wire at the glow plug not hooked to any thing???? i think i might be taking to the dealer!!!!!!

Pics or routes or these switchs etc????

How to use the glow plugs???

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Post some pictures of the dials, knobs and levers and someone should be able to tell you what is what.
Include as much area around it too.

 

[Russell King]

Ozzie,

1) Sent you the manual (in two parts) Let me know if you did NOT get it

2) Here is how the key and starter knob work on my tractor. They are fairly stock. The key is on the left side of the dash. First position is the start position (basically turns on the electrical circuit). Second position is the headlights on (low?), Third position is the headlights on (high?). (may have those backwards on low and high).

The starter knob is on the right side of the dash. Turn it to left and the glow plugs are energized, you have to hold it to keep the glow plugs energized. Release is an it goes to neutral position. Turn it to the right and the starter is energized. Hold it to crank. Release it and it returns to neutral.

3) Stopping the tractor - There is a hand lever throttle on the right side of the tractor. Follow that down and near the bottom of the dash, maybe even below it you should see a lever (vertical flat metal with a round end) . Put the hand lever into idle position and then pull up on the small lever and the fuel us shut off and the engine will stop.

FYI you can turn the key of at any time that the tractor is running since there is no ignition on diesels. It is also easy to forget to turn it off since you don't "kill" the engine with the key!

It appears that your electrics have been butchered and you may not have a way to energize the glow plugs. That will make it difficult to start. But you need to get rid of the leakage/bubbles first as others recommended.

If you get the manual, it has a electrical schematic in it. The glow plug wiring is fairly straight forward so you may be able to wire them back through the black switch. Power coming from somewhere, runs through switch, through the indicator (also a resistor so don't by pass it), then to the first glow plug and daisy chained to second glow plug.

Search the forum about glow plugs and glow plug indicators and you will get lots of information. The indicator is on the right side of dash, looks like a hole in the dash with a chrome ring around it and something behind the dash. It "glows" when power is applied to the glow plugs and it is dark enough.

 

[Russell King]

BTW there are some pictures in my photo album that show the key and the starter knob.

Almost every part I have wanted has been available at the dealer.

Use the illustrated parts guide on Kubota corporate website.

 

[Ozziekubota67]

Ozzie,

1) Sent you the manual (in two parts) Let me know if you did NOT get it

2) Here is how the key and starter knob work on my tractor. They are fairly stock. The key is on the left side of the dash. First position is the start position (basically turns on the electrical circuit). Second position is the headlights on (low?), Third position is the headlights on (high?). (may have those backwards on low and high).

The starter knob is on the right side of the dash. Turn it to left and the glow plugs are energized, you have to hold it to keep the glow plugs energized. Release is an it goes to neutral position. Turn it to the right and the starter is energized. Hold it to crank. Release it and it returns to neutral.

3) Stopping the tractor - There is a hand lever throttle on the right side of the tractor. Follow that down and near the bottom of the dash, maybe even below it you should see a lever (vertical flat metal with a round end) . Put the hand lever into idle position and then pull up on the small lever and the fuel us shut off and the engine will stop.

FYI you can turn the key of at any time that the tractor is running since there is no ignition on diesels. It is also easy to forget to turn it off since you don't "kill" the engine with the key!

It appears that your electrics have been butchered and you may not have a way to energize the glow plugs. That will make it difficult to start. But you need to get rid of the leakage/bubbles first as others recommended.

If you get the manual, it has a electrical schematic in it. The glow plug wiring is fairly straight forward so you may be able to wire them back through the black switch. Power coming from somewhere, runs through switch, through the indicator (also a resistor so don't by pass it), then to the first glow plug and daisy chained to second glow plug.

Search the forum about glow plugs and glow plug indicators and you will get lots of information. The indicator is on the right side of dash, looks like a hole in the dash with a chrome ring around it and something behind the dash. It "glows" when power is applied to the glow plugs and it is dark enough.

UPDATE: the info you sent to me was amazing, took to my shop today( I own goodyears so all my guys are gasser ppl) and did full service, new battery, also replaced both injectors(no more bubbles) but I tighten them really tight.... New lines as well and all good there now... NOT THE COLD START issue. Is I shoot a minor bit of spray into intake( no knocks) so a very minor bit it will start to run on it's own flawless...... Looked under dash the the glow plug and starter seitch all cut to hell.... The glow plugs have a black and tell wire and the another wire which is hanging there... Nothing hooked up to the glow plug heater switch.... The little indicator coil thing is in them it'll circle on dash...


Question is can I some how hard wire it???

 

[Russell King]

I saw your pictures that you sent - you should post them here and you will get more help from others.

You should verify that the glow plugs actually operate before doing too much else. Search this forum for methods to verify they are good or replace them with new.

From looking at the pictures you should be able to come up with a way to energize the glow plugs. The wiring diagram that is in the manual shows the wire to the glow plus is a Black/White wire. (I think I see that one connected to the first glow plug in your picture, I can't tell if that is the same wire that has the flat connector on it in the same picture but that wire looks smaller diameter).

From the glow plug you need to go directly to the controller contact, and I don't see that it matters which side you connect to.

From the other side of the controller you could go directly to the battery (I would go through a fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse for protection of yourself and the tractor) positive terminal. Do NOT make the connection but just touch it to the positive terminal.

Any time that circuit is completed the glow plugs are energized.

Since you wiring is butchered I highly recommend that you get to a dealer and get the correct parts to do it the way it came from the factory or to come up with a similar system on your own.

BTW if you are using ether to start the tractor that is BAD for diesels.

You also do not need glow plugs to start if the engine is warm (and your engine is in OK shape), they only help get the fuel to explode in the cold cylinder. If you can heat the block in other ways (heated room, blowing warm air across the engine...)