Ignition light

hampshireborn

Member

Equipment
B7100 HST , B1502M,RK1100 rotovator, finishing mower,wessex trailer,DM topper
Hi OTT
I have a B1502 with a dynamo not alternator and the ingnition (battery) light never comes on when you turn on the ignition however i did find that there was no bulb fitted in it so i popped one in and still no light. Any ideas on the problem.
 
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Apogee

Member

Equipment
B6100, B7100, B8200, B9200, G4200, L175, L35
Jan 22, 2012
518
0
16
Tacoma, WA
Greetings Hampshire,

Unfortunately, I don't have manual or schematic for your particular tractor. Shooting from the hip, I'm *guessing* it could be several things. Since we know the bulb is good, I'd recommend checking in the following order:

1. - bad fuse either under the dash or down by the starter

2. - broken or pinched wire or bad system, dash, or light socket ground

3. - bad or corroded key switch

4. - bad ground on the voltage regulator (are the mounting bolts loose?)

5. - bad voltage regulator

You might consider checking with a test light or voltmeter just to be 100% sure that you don't have a bad socket or bad ground at the socket. Testing this way, at least you'll know for sure you don't have voltage to the socket. Also, it would be advisable to get a wiring diagram for the tractor to help trace the circuit in question. Would be easiest to locate the problem that way and you'd know which wires to check based on color.

Is the tractor charging the battery correctly? Have you ever put a voltmeter on the battery both with it stopped, as well as running, to verify they charging circuit is working? Finally, have you ever checked the output of the dynamo to verify that it's working correctly? (test the dynamo using the AC setting on your voltmeter) I'm asking these questions because if the tractor isn't charging the battery properly it would most likely point to either a blown fuse, bad key switch or bad voltage regulator (assuming the dynamo, wiring and grounds are good).

Finally, I notice you also own a B7100. You might consider comparing the charging circuits between the two as I believe they're pretty close. Since both use a dynamo, it should be fairly straight forward to trace which circuits have power when the key is on and, if you get lucky, you might even be able to swap parts for testing to figure out exactly what you need to replace. (I'm thinking voltage regulator)

Hope this helps.

Good luck!

Steve
 
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hampshireborn

Member

Equipment
B7100 HST , B1502M,RK1100 rotovator, finishing mower,wessex trailer,DM topper
Thanks for your reply Steve i Will give those a look over, First need to get a new multimeter as mine does not appear to be working,,Do you know what volts it should be showing ? as i don`t think its charging properly or if the batt is knackered...... My B7100 has an alternator on it .:eek:
 

Apogee

Member

Equipment
B6100, B7100, B8200, B9200, G4200, L175, L35
Jan 22, 2012
518
0
16
Tacoma, WA
You're lucky that your B7100 has an alternator. Here in the US they came with dynamos...

I posted the specs and procedure for testing the dynamo charging system in the following thread:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11874&highlight=dynamo+volts

Best to test the charging using Kubota's procedure. The other quick and dirty way is simply to measure the voltage at the battery with the tractor not running. It will likely be just over 12 volts. Then start the tractor, rev it up and measure again. You should see approx 14 volts if it's charging. Kubota's method described in the thread above is better because it will verify charging amps, but this way will at least quickly tell you if it's working or not.

Hope this helps!

Steve
 
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ttj49

New member

Equipment
B6100-DT
You're lucky that your B7100 has an alternator. Here in the US they came with dynamos...

I posted the specs and procedure for testing the dynamo charging system in the following thread:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11874&highlight=dynamo+volts

Best to test the charging using Kubota's procedure. The other quick and dirty way is simply to measure the voltage at the battery with the tractor not running. It will likely be just over 12 volts. Then start the tractor, rev it up and measure again. You should see approx 14 volts if it's charging. Kubota's method described in the thread above is better because it will verify charging amps, but this way will at least quickly tell you if it's working or not.

Hope this helps!

Steve
Hah...I didn't think of that. My light stays on all the time. Now to get a voltage meter and see if I get a different reading running and reved up, and shut of...thanks for the tip....
 

Apogee

Member

Equipment
B6100, B7100, B8200, B9200, G4200, L175, L35
Jan 22, 2012
518
0
16
Tacoma, WA
I should add one caveat to the quick and dirty test.

If the battery is fully charged, then the regulator conceivably *might* not start charging and therefore you wouldn't see a voltage change at the battery. I've never seen this happen, but it could. Usually the regulator will turn on regardless then taper off charging after several minutes of running. It does this to replace the current that was drawn by during starting. However, I suppose there *could* be situations where the battery voltage is high enough to prevent it from ever turning on.

That above being said, I've never seen it happen. The quick and dirty test has always worked for me. If there is any question, turn on the headlights as it should then jump up to replace the current be drawn.

Steve
 
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