Rode hard, put away wet--new member

[AZSahara]

Bought a used B2320--Rode hard, put away wet--new member

Howdy OTT, my name is John and I bought a used B2320 a couple of weeks ago. Cosmetically it has the usual dents and dings of a used tractor but I paid a fair price and mechanically everything works as it oughta. I'm recovering from major surgery and I'm just now able to do the stuff you normally do with a new vehicle of any kind--fluids, filters, hoses if needed, etc. Here's how it's gone so far:

B2320 with 152 hours on the clock--but I think it's been worked hard and I can't verify the service history.

Oil level OK but nasty (hey it's a diesel)--changed oil and filter.

Topped off transmission/hydraulic oil--inspection with a flashlight through the port looks clean. Fluid clean on dipstick.

Changed air filter(s). Primary looked like a bird's nest. Really dirty. Secondary clean but replaced it anyway.

Greased tractor (4 zerks) and FEL (12 zerks).

Topped off radiator with 50/50 mix.

Runs great, functions well mechanically. I didn't run it long or at high RPM.

Gauges work, replaced a rear bulb so all lights work.

Hour meter hasn't budged. Local dealer told me low RPM won't necessarily advance the meter. Is this true? If not I may have to replace a tach/hourmeter unit.

On shutdown and in the garage I noticed a slow drip from the lower left of the radiator. Hose tight and in good condition so I think it's gonna need a new rad. Had problem with a aluminum/plastic rad on my jeep previously. It there any option other than replacement? If I need to replace what is my best source?

On the other hand, my Stabilworks stabilizers should be arriving today!

Thanks all.

John

 

[Lil Foot]

AZSahara- As one Arizonan to another, welcome aboard! Not familiar with your model, but after researching radiators for a buddy's B7100, E-bay looked like the cheapest way to go. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable then me will jump in. Wether electric or mechanical, the hour meter should be advancing when the tractor is on/running.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As a former Arizonian, Radiator would be #1 on my list, just get a new one if that is where it's leaking, like Lil foot suggested EBay is probably going to be you best bet.

In your read of things done, I didn't see you change the HST if it is or the hydraulic filter, just because the fluid is clean doesn't mean it doesn't need a new filter, they trap very fine particles and a new filter will keep it running great.

 

[AZSahara]

NIW, my bad. It's a B2320DT. Good advice on the tranny filter. I'll go pick one up and get er done. Are micro leaks common with these radiators?

 

[Lil Foot]

NIW, my bad. It's a B2320DT. Good advice on the tranny filter. I'll go pick one up and get er done. Are micro leaks common with these radiators?

If it means anything, my 1979 B7100 has the original, no leaks.

 

[gpreuss]

On my older L185DT the tachometer/hour meter quit at about 700 hrs. I've gathered it was a pretty common problem, with an involved fix. I just let it be. I haven't seen any complaints about the newer ones, but it wouldn't surprise me to find that is why it appears to have low hours. The hour meter was "hours at 2800 rpm" and was gear driven.
There are probably zerks for the steering on both front wheels, at the front axle center swivel, on each brake pedal, maybe the clutch pedal. You should lube where the diff lock and 4WD shifter pass into the transmission housing, and work those points well. My old 185 also had a couple of zerks on the steering mechanism, that probably aren't there with power steering.

 

[cerlawson]

Before I'd get a new radiator, I'd give it some time. Double check the clamps on the hoses. A common problem with newer stuff. Also, that 50-50 mix is cheap and may be a way for a while.

In the old days on my model A a single chicken's egg in the radiator took care of any leaks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

And just no matter what route you take with the radiator, DO NOT use stop leak products, it can cause some serious problems with the cooling system on these little guys.

One think about AZ is most of it gets so hot that not having cooling problems with a tractor would be a rare thing! I loved running equipment down there in the late fall, winter and early spring but hated it in late spring, summer and early fall! Did all the equipment work I could in the night!

 

[SteveF]

AZSahara, welcome to OTT.

I see you will take care of your new investment, that 's a good thing.

May want to consider changing HST fluid & filter(s). This is the heart of the machine's function, excepting the engine.

A leaking radiator is not normal but you can keep topping off for a while as needed. Do not use stop leak stuff... Nothing but problems later. I really don't know about eggs though.

Hope you are all healed up,

 

[AZSahara]

Thanks all for the kind welcome and good words of advice. Worked the tractor for about 90 minutes this evening doing really simple stuff. Radiator oozed a little bit at lower left corner but never really dripped. When it cooled I checked coolant level and it hadn't changed.

cerlawson--I'm taking your advice and just watching it for the time being. It might just seal itself up and 50/50 is real cheap so long as I watch it.

NIW--agree with NO stop leak--wouldn't use it in any radiator much less alum in a diesel. Had an 8N once many years ago (35+) that had holes in the rad plugged with road tar! Still worked. Also, I live up near Sedona at around 4000ft altitude so it's not quite as hot and gets really cold at nights in the winter. Not what everyone usually thinks about AZ.

SteveF--thanks for the kind welcome! I didn't mention in the first post that the tractor is a DT--so no HST. I actually prefer the DT over an HST for my application (very large garden).

gpruess--thanks for the history on the hour meters. I might be able to have it rebuilt in Phoenix or maybe not. What does one do for service intervals without the hour meters? I really haven't run it at 2800 rpm. If it only registers time at 2800 maybe there's nothing wrong with it. Something to try tomorrow.

Lil Foot--I wish I had a B7100!

My surgery was a left hip replacement. I'm coming along well but it's been 7 weeks of physical therapy and maddening movement limitations. But I can now walk without pain so it's worth it so far.

 

[SteveF]

AZSahara, please keep us posted on how you make out with your coolant/radiator situation and hour meter. You will probably want to keep up with the maintenance intervals, and as you say, how will you know what to do when.

 

[AZSahara]

Exactly! I may just pull the trigger and replace the tach/hour meter. Even with the service and fixes I'm still WAY ahead with what I've got in it.

 

[gpreuss]

Time at 2800 rpm just means it is geared so that at 2800 rpm an hour will show an hour. At 1400 rpm it will take two hours to show an hour. There was a single cable from the engine housing to the rpm/hour meter. If you are showing rpm's OK, the hour meter should work?

 

[AZSahara]

Time at 2800 rpm just means it is geared so that at 2800 rpm an hour will show an hour. At 1400 rpm it will take two hours to show an hour. There was a single cable from the engine housing to the rpm/hour meter. If you are showing rpm's OK, the hour meter should work?

That's kind of what I thought, it's proportional. Tach works but the hour meter hasn't budged. I don't mind catchup maintenance but to let an investment go is inexcusable for me. Gonna stop by the dealer and price a new tach hour meter this morning. Appreciate your insite.

John

 

[AZSahara]

Welp the local Kuboty dealer says I can only order the entire panel not just the tach. Even then it's only $321. Will replace the cable too. I'm putting this at the top of the list!

 

[Apogee]

Welcome to the site!

You might consider pulling the radiator and having it rebuilt if there is a shop in your area that still rebuilds them. I'm guessing it'll cost ~$125 or so and will be like new (assuming they can rod it out and repair it).

I'd first try rebuilding it because the original unit is likely better quality (thicker metal) than the cheap units found on eBay.

Whatever you do, pay VERY close attention to it. To rebuild your engine after overheating will cost thousands (literally)! Kubota parts should be gold-plated based on cost.

Good luck!

Steve

 

[AZSahara]

Welcome to the site!

You might consider pulling the radiator and having it rebuilt if there is a shop in your area that still rebuilds them. I'm guessing it'll cost ~$125 or so and will be like new (assuming they can rod it out and repair it).

I'd first try rebuilding it because the original unit is likely better quality (thicker metal) than the cheap units found on eBay.

Whatever you do, pay VERY close attention to it. To rebuild your engine after overheating will cost thousands (literally)! Kubota parts should be gold-plated based on cost.

Good luck!

Steve

Thanks Steve! I'm already working a rad rebuild through the local Kubota dealer. I am VERY compulsive about cooling systems (vital in a high altitude desert). I'll spend some money up front to protect my investment.

 

[AZSahara]

Been running the B2320 moving dirt around. Mechanically everything works great! I ordered a new radiator and gauge panel anyway. Will replace the tach drive cable and hoses and thermostat at the same time. This is too good a tractor not to get these details right.

 

[ItBmine]

Smart move. Why take chances if it is working good for you.

 

[SteveF]

AZSahare, thanks for following up.