Filled the radiator with a 50/50 mix the other day before tilling the garden. While out tilling, I noticed what I first thought was a small amount of white smoke. Thought it was coming from the exhaust so I opened the hood. Notices a small amount of antifreeze leaking from the radiator cap and steam. While it was very little leakage and steam, I don't want it to overheat. Does this machine have a water pump??? I haven't noticed one but as many of you may have already noticed, I don't know much about her yet. I'm thinking the radiator needs flushing and refilling if it was treated anything like the oil was from the previous owner!
B6000 overheating
- Thread starter tow2topgun
- Start date
Aquaforce made a post a while back about an engine without a water pump. Here is the link. From what I learned, If there is a big riser on top of the engine going to the radiator then you don't have a pump. Hope this helps some.
Scott
My B6000 with the ZL600 engine has no water pump and no thermostat, which I think is normal. Although I don't have mine running yet, from what I've read on this site, they don't overheat if the radiator is working right. Mine came with a 7 psi pressure cap (not original) but my dealer says the Kubota cap for that engine isn't marked with a pressure rating, however, he thinks it is "really high so the thermosyphon system works right". I haven't checked that out yet, but am a little concerned about running a much higher pressure cap on my old, repaired radiator. Sounds like you ought to make sure the radiator is clean on the outside (e.g. no leaves and "stuff" blocking airflow through it) and that what you can see of the tubes inside are clean (e.g. it doesn't need rodding out).
Thank you for making such a good follow up.
A while back somebody, I don't remember who, said they bring an air compressor with them while working the field. This way he can blow out the radiator as it start building up.
Scott
My b7100 does not have a water pump. Dont know if anyone would agree with the way I flush mine. I take bottom rad hose off radiator let it flush out fast while off i turn water hose pressure up full and put in top of radiator and let it run with clean until water is clear. Then I put hose back on engine on bottom take the top one off from engine and get a rag to build up pressure as clean water reverses thru engine when it is clear if hoses are good I take lower one off 1 more time to flush from top again thru radiator with rag down in radiator to put more pressure with water. put hoses back on refill with 50 antifreeze 50 percent water the antifreeze the manual calls for which is the green for mine. Like I said not necessarily reccomending do yours this but I do mine. So far been lucky and it has worked for me on all my vehicles. Vic, dusty, traildust, Mr K or aquaforce. I cant name all people on the site that is more experianced than myself on diesels and they may have a better way.Sorry if this doesnt make since. handy
Forgot I always blow my radiator off FROM THE INSIDE OUT then blow my rad.cover off from inside out.handyThanks guys. I didn't think there was a pump so it makes sense now. Reckon I'll flush it and refill it with clean fluids and change out the cap. I was thinking the cap was faulty if it was pumpless but wasn't sure. I'll let yall know how it works out.
I hope everything works out for you. Please keep us updated with your findings and results.
Thank you,
Scott
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
The Kubota radiator cap is not marked as was stated and it is $$$$$$$$$
I got one from Lashley tractor (the New Holland dealer in Griffin) and it cost me $50
This cap is metric and does not fit into my pressure tester or I would know exactly what the pressure limit is. Some believe it to be between 10 and 13PSI.
Definately keep the radiator and block flushed internally as well as blow out the fins externally.
The only help Kubota gives on these engines is the screamer if that is any help at all. These systems were designed to run with water only and the boiling point of water keeps the system very effective. The main problem is that water vaporized which means the water level is a constant maintenance item. Fill fill fill!!!!!!
After replacing the busted head on my Z750 (two cyl just like the B6000) I couldn't stand not knowing the engine temp so I installed an electric guage. I love it and so far with a very weak antifreeze mix the temp has not gone over 187°.
I got one from Lashley tractor (the New Holland dealer in Griffin) and it cost me $50
This cap is metric and does not fit into my pressure tester or I would know exactly what the pressure limit is. Some believe it to be between 10 and 13PSI.
Definately keep the radiator and block flushed internally as well as blow out the fins externally.
The only help Kubota gives on these engines is the screamer
if that is any help at all. These systems were designed to run with water only and the boiling point of water keeps the system very effective. The main problem is that water vaporized which means the water level is a constant maintenance item. Fill fill fill!!!!!!After replacing the busted head on my Z750 (two cyl just like the B6000) I couldn't stand not knowing the engine temp so I installed an electric guage. I love it and so far with a very weak antifreeze mix the temp has not gone over 187°.
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As others mentioned your B6000 does NOT have a water pump. it works by the difference in hot water rising, and flowing through the radiator, and then as it cools (comparatively) it flows back down into the engine. I think the term thermosiphon is the technical term for this. There MUST be a full radiator for this to work. if the level falls below the top tube water cant flow. This should work even with no radiator cap. The flow is made by the temperature difference. The cooling is done by the fan and a clean radiator.
You mentioned the condition of the oil. That would be a huge hint to me that the machine was not well cared for. A radiator flush would help immensely I would guess! Also, are you sure the fan belt is snug, and is keeping the blade turning all the time? all the air flow must be maintained too. Have you looked in from the front to make sure the fins are all in good shape? and that there isn't a bunch of gunk, dust, debris clogging the radiator?
Just so you know, the round thing under the fan hub is the alternator. It is confusing at first since it looks like a water pump. but it isnt!
You mentioned the condition of the oil. That would be a huge hint to me that the machine was not well cared for. A radiator flush would help immensely I would guess! Also, are you sure the fan belt is snug, and is keeping the blade turning all the time? all the air flow must be maintained too. Have you looked in from the front to make sure the fins are all in good shape? and that there isn't a bunch of gunk, dust, debris clogging the radiator?
Just so you know, the round thing under the fan hub is the alternator. It is confusing at first since it looks like a water pump. but it isnt!
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If flushing the radiator out doesn't fix your overheating problem I have one suggestion. Try Amsoil synthetic oil in the motor. I use their HDD 5w30 heavy duty diesel oil in my tractors. It's expensive but it will lower your water temp and give you the best wear protection available.
Status update on the old girl and the overheating problem. Continues to overheat even after a through flushing. Runs fine for 1/2 an hour then the steam begins blowing out of the overflow line. I'm thinking maybe the cap is needing to be replaced but not sure. Besides the cap, the only other thing I can think of is the radiator itself since this cooling system is so simple. Also, once it overheats I have a great reduction in power. Is this just from the excessive heat within the engine thereby robbing power? What are yall's thoughts on running Dex Cool (for GM cooling systems)? The reason I ask is because I have 2 gallons of it and I refuse to run it in my 02 2500HD. Nothing permanent but as a temporary use. Just trying to keep flushing it as many times as possible but hate to waste money on the green fluid to be flushed out.
To recap: still overheating. Will it cause power loss?
Can I use Dex cool in it for short term use?
To recap: still overheating. Will it cause power loss?
Can I use Dex cool in it for short term use?
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
I don't think any form of antifreeze will help to cool it more. Water only will give more heat dissapation than a mix of anything other than redline.
You can try redline cooling system additive. Racers use it for cooling high perf engines and it is supposed to lower coolant temps by 30%. That is quite a lot.
If you put a water hose in the top of the radiator can you get water to flow out of the radiator drain petcock, and the block drain petcock and from the lower hose on the engine??? This would make sure that the water can circulate and not get restricted.
I really wonder about your radiator!!!!!! Seriously!!!!
You can try redline cooling system additive. Racers use it for cooling high perf engines and it is supposed to lower coolant temps by 30%. That is quite a lot.
If you put a water hose in the top of the radiator can you get water to flow out of the radiator drain petcock, and the block drain petcock and from the lower hose on the engine??? This would make sure that the water can circulate and not get restricted.
I really wonder about your radiator!!!!!! Seriously!!!!
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
I really wonder about little tractors becoming big tractors!!!! Seriously!!!!
LOL
I've been trying that miracle grow........do you think it will help.
It's not working on my merc 5.0, still not a 502LOL
I've been trying that miracle grow........do you think it will help.
Since my last update I have flushed it several more times. I filled it with water and pulled the drain cock out and the red water ran out! For some reason, the past several times I flushed it the water didn't look that bad. This time the water was extremely rusty. I kept on filling and flushing until it ran clear. Filled it and then ran it for awhile and flushed it again. Ran for about an hour after that and no problems. The only thing I did different was used a spray nozzle on full blast into the radiator. Guess it was enough to blow it loose. She is one cool tractor now!
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
Since these tractors don't have a water pump the rust/scale etc builds up very easily. A positive flow water pump can keep this junk in suspention in the water or at least move it around so it doesn't restrict flow. Flushing is a frequent must with these thermal flow systems just to keep a clear passage.
Glad to hear that all is well.
Hello, I am new here on the forum. I recently bought a 2nd hand grey market
B6000. I runs very well and I like it very much. However I would like to ask ask on the forum about the radiator. I learned that there is no water pump involved and that the circulation takes place by the difference in water temp. Sounds good because not many parts that can break down that way. Now my question is, when I run the engine for let's say 15 minutes, the top of the radiator gets really hot (you cannot touch it). The bottom of the radiator stays like ambient temperature. I would expect that the bottom part would also warm up at least a little bit. Now I get the impression that there is no circulation at all. Secondly, I have noticed that the radiator discharges a tiny amount of coolant after about 15 min of running. Visually, all looks ok. Also the radiator is clean on the outside and the fan is rotating. The coolant level is also very near the cap, so this is also ok. The coolant (blue fluid that seems to be a littlebit viscous) looks also new. Can it be possible that somehow there is an obstruction that prevents the coolant from circulating ? Appreciate any comments,
Thanks,
Paul Heijndijk
B6000. I runs very well and I like it very much. However I would like to ask ask on the forum about the radiator. I learned that there is no water pump involved and that the circulation takes place by the difference in water temp. Sounds good because not many parts that can break down that way. Now my question is, when I run the engine for let's say 15 minutes, the top of the radiator gets really hot (you cannot touch it). The bottom of the radiator stays like ambient temperature. I would expect that the bottom part would also warm up at least a little bit. Now I get the impression that there is no circulation at all. Secondly, I have noticed that the radiator discharges a tiny amount of coolant after about 15 min of running. Visually, all looks ok. Also the radiator is clean on the outside and the fan is rotating. The coolant level is also very near the cap, so this is also ok. The coolant (blue fluid that seems to be a littlebit viscous) looks also new. Can it be possible that somehow there is an obstruction that prevents the coolant from circulating ? Appreciate any comments,
Thanks,
Paul Heijndijk