Starter Magnet Switch/Solenoid

[300zx]

The main current on my starter is not making it through the solenoid contacts. I suspect the contact plate is corroded. Being a refurbisher at heart, I typically take solenoids apart and just cleanup the contacts. Has anyone had the Kubota starter on a B2150 apart and can you get to the solenoid/magnet switch and clean up the contact plate?

John in VA

 

[Dan_R_42]

Good question John... I am wondering about the same thing on a B7100? Anyone tried rebuilding one? Can you get parts for the solenoid?

 

[Tx Jim]

I see no reason the solenoid contacts can't be cleaned. I suppose you have checked.cleaned all 4 battery cable connections and have ample amps at starter?

 

[300zx]

I see no reason the solenoid contacts can't be cleaned. I suppose you have checked.cleaned all 4 battery cable connections and have ample amps at starter?

Yes I have and all has checked out. I will probably jump across the solenoid secondary terminals with a battery cable to get the tractor started so I can get it in the shop. The solenoid is clicking like it should which tells me current is getting through the clutch safety switch. When I get it torn down, I will take some pictures.

John in VA

 

[300zx]

Here are the results of restoring the connection points for the high current flow through the starter solenoid. The pictures show the disassembly, which was quite easy after removal of the starter from the tractor. Even after cleaning the connection points, they are really pitted. I added some switch lube to the surfaces to reduce any future corrosion due to arching, but time will tell whether that will help. If I have further problems with it, I will probably smooth down the surfaces to increase the contact area. I installed the starter and it kicked in the first time and has worked subsequently, so I consider it a success and much easier than I expected. If I could have bought the copper parts, I think that would be a better way to go because of the pitting, but they don't seem to be available except with a new starter!!

Just for information, the B1550 to the B1750 have the standard starter and solenoid setup. The B2150 has a gear reduction starter, probably because of the 4th cylinder and need for more starting torque. Because of the gear reduction, the solenoid in integrated in the gear reduction area and the solenoid has two coils. One causes the plunger to kick the starter gear in and the other to connect the high current flow to the motor. Interesting design!

Here are the pictures:

https://picasaweb.google.com/110263...150StarterSolenoid?authuser=0&feat=directlink

John in VA

 

[Stubbyie]

I'm interested in your photo sequence but am getting Google server failure repeatedly. Might this be because the web address is truncated in the forum post?

Could you post a complete different or better hyperlink?

Thanks in advance for your efforts.

 

[Lil Foot]

I'm interested in your photo sequence but am getting Google server failure repeatedly.

Yup, me too.

 

[Dan_R_42]

I'm interested in your photo sequence but am getting Google server failure repeatedly.

Yup, me too.

Interesting... I'm logged on using Firefox and got into the photos John posted with no problem.

 

[300zx]

I'm interested in your photo sequence but am getting Google server failure repeatedly. Might this be because the web address is truncated in the forum post?

Could you post a complete different or better hyperlink?

Thanks in advance for your efforts.

Sorry Stubbyie, I am having trouble with Google+ controls on my pictures. Try this link:

https://picasaweb.google.com/110263...150StarterSolenoid?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Let me know if it works!

John in VA

 

[300zx]

If anyone is still having trouble with the pictures, please let me know. I think I have it fixed!!

John in VA

 

[Lil Foot]

Works for me now, thanks!

 

[300zx]

This is an update on the B2150 starter solenoid repair. It only lasted a few months. When I took it apart again, you could see where it was arching. What I found out was the cleaning and removal of the pits in the copper thinned the side contacts enough that the copper contact washer between the lugs was not making physical contact and thus the arching. The plunger was bottoming out before the copper washer could make good contact with the lugs. So, not wanting to give up, I took a thin piece of copper and soldered it to the contact surface of the two lugs. They are now back to their original thickness and the solenoid works great again. Just another lesson learned.

John in VA

 

[ShaunRH]

Not sure I would've used solder on an item that could potentially get really hot. A better approach would've been to braze additional material to the contact surface and file it down to the appropriate size. The braze could handle the same temperature as the original material, even low temp brazing materials would be stronger than solder.

I guess if the solder holds, it's not a problem though... right?

 

[Jim L.]

John, thanks for sharing that.