How do you adjust 3 point hitch control

[billback]

I have a rear blade on my bx2200d when tractor is cold and you pull the 3 point hitch control to lift the blade you must hold on to it all the time in the up position, if you let go the blade goes right back down on its own. Once the tractor is warmed up the blade will drop sometime when the front end loader is dropped.

The rear hitch never lifts automatically and returns to center on its own. I must hold lever in up position then let it return to center very gently. Or it will go all the way back down.

I should be able to just pull lever to up position and leave go and when blade is all the way up return to center on its own.

Anyone know how to fix this?

 

[Bulldog]

I'm not 100% sure about that model but most small Kubotas have a feed back rod that the 3pt control works on. This is how the height can be set. Some times they will get dirt or even some rust and the control will drag on the rod. It will act just the way you describe. May need to clean the rod and / or lubricate it.

 

[GWD]

Follow the linkage of the link lever. It will go from under the right fender to behind the right wheel. The end of the linkage can be seen from the rear of the tractor.

The end of it has a nut with a spring to adjust the return from lifting. About 3 inches forward of that spring/nut is another set-up that does the same thing for returning the lever from lowering. (or maybe vice-versa)

The best way to get to it for adjusting is to take off the right wheel and everything shows up very well. Move the nuts/lock nuts one way or the other to get the action you want.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sounds to me more like the lever/valve has no resistance and the lever/valve is floating. I know on my L3450 there is 2 Nuts and a 4 wavy washers that give the three point lever resistance to not just free float and "stick or lock" in position.

 

[GWD]

Sounds to me more like the lever/valve has no resistance and the lever/valve is floating. I know on my L3450 there is 2 Nuts and a 4 wavy washers that give the three point lever resistance to not just free float and "stick or lock" in position.

The BX2200 has a self-centering feature. Pull the lever rearward and is holds there until the 3PH reaches it highest point. It then self-centers.

It does the same thing when the lever is pushed forward and the 3PH reaches its lowest point.

That is, if the spring tension is adjusted correctly.

The L3650 that I had did not have this feature.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds to me more like the lever/valve has no resistance and the lever/valve is floating. I know on my L3450 there is 2 Nuts and a 4 wavy washers that give the three point lever resistance to not just free float and "stick or lock" in position.

I agree with Wolfman on no resistance on control lever. I looked in parts catalog and could find no such device on a BX2200 3 pt control lever.

 

[GWD]

Yep, you are both right...no such thing. It must be my imagination.

Oh wait-

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I guess I will learn to just do a search and get the right information before I just post.
Yep there is a detent/thrust washer to keep tension on the lever, it's just like the L3450,But it's inside of the valve, it's parts 30, 50, 60.
If any of these three parts are broken/bad/missing is will let the lever flop around like a fish, thus causing very erratic operation!
I don't disagree that you also have to make sure the stops are set properly.

 

[GWD]

I guess I will learn to just do a search and get the right information before I just post.
Yep there is a detent/thrust washer to keep tension on the lever, it's just like the L3450,But it's inside of the valve, it's parts 30, 50, 60.
If any of these three parts are broken/bad/missing is will let the lever flop around like a fish, thus causing very erratic operation!
I don't disagree that you also have to make sure the stops are set properly.

View attachment 10273

Umm...no again. Those parts are external and behind the right tire. They do not have anything to do with keeping tension on the lever.

My advice is to consider leaving this thread to ones who have actually worked on this linkage and understand its function.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Umm...no again. Those parts are external and behind the right tire. They do not have anything to do with keeping tension on the lever.

My advice is to consider leaving this thread to ones who have actually worked on this linkage and understand its function.

Thank you for such a rude remarks, makes me remember why I think some Californian's are so "special" !
I love how you think the internal detents in the valve that controls the three point have nothing at all to do with the operation of the three point.
I guess you have far superior intellect than I, so I'll leave you to work this out!

 

[GWD]

Rude? Maybe a third party can read the post and see if it is indeed "rude".

Anyway, bye.

 

[tthorkil]

Yes, definitely RUDE & arrogant!

 

[Benhameen]

I comes down to who is actually right and who is wrong. There is a correct answer for the OPs question, which is the reason for this forum.

I don't have this type of tractor and have not worked on one but I'm sure someone here has. Maybe someone with experience and not an just an opinion can chime in.

After all, the goal is to have the correct answer out there for the OP and other people searching the Internet for an answer.

Vic?

 

[GWD]

Yes, definitely RUDE & arrogant!

OK, there is one opinion. Perhaps expanding on that view would be instructive. It was not the intent.

Posting incorrect information (multiple times) because of ignorance of the unit's functioning should be pointed out to the OP so he/she is not confused by conjecture. Perhaps that can be seen as rude.

Knowing the solution because of actually experiencing the problem and resolving it could be seen as arrogant somehow.

I comes down to who is actually right and who is wrong. There is a correct answer for the OPs question, which is the reason for this forum.

I don't have this type of tractor and have not worked on one but I'm sure someone here has. Maybe someone with experience and not an just an opinion can chime in.

After all, the goal is to have the correct answer out there for the OP and other people searching the Internet for an answer.

Vic?

That is what posts 3, 5, 7, and 9 were intended to do.

I have this model tractor and have done the adjustment several times until it was finally set just right. Somehow that has gotten lost.

 

[tthorkil]

“I have this model tractor and have done the adjustment several times until it was finally set just right.”

If this statement had preceded the adjustment explanation it might have given the OP the confidence to perform the procedure to find if that actually fixed his problem. It is possible that his Kubota has some problem that this procedure would not correct. Sometimes the information posted is not correct as has been pointed out in this thread.

“Yep, you are both right...no such thing. It must be my imagination.

Oh wait-“

Sarcasm is usually confrontational. People on this forum usually try to help out by posting possibilities from their past experience even if not with the OP’s particular model.

“My advice is to consider leaving this thread to ones who have actually worked on this linkage and understand its function.”

Arrogant – feeling or showing self-importance and contempt or disregard for others. I admit that I do not have the knowledge or experience on this issue but from the several other posts by the participants of this thread I have learned that they do have the mechanical knowledge-base and experience that has helped many Kubota owners. One’s own experience with a similar problem will sometimes lead you astray and you will need to get a new perspective on the problem -the problem with the ‘spinning rims’ as of late for an example. In my opinion everyone’s input on this forum should be respected and when that input is found to be incorrect it should be politely corrected with whatever supporting data that is available.

 

[SteveF]

My advice is to consider leaving this thread to ones who have actually worked on this linkage and understand its function.

Hopefully it is the intent of this forum to share ideas, experiences, and knowledge? While it would be nice to have every answer for every issue solved with one reply by the most correct answer, that just ain't reality. My 60 plus years on this earth have taught me that. Yes it's pretty frickin arrogant to claim to have all the answers but the feeling of self importance must really be wonderful up in that rarified air... something most on this forum will never know, thankfully!

 

[GWD]

To all:
Very interesting take on the situation. Thanks for taking the time to share your opinions.

Back to the topic. Here is a drawing of the adjustment nut(s) for the lever auto-return from the WSM.

 

[billback]

thanks for all you help. i adjusted the stops and the screws on that rod, that helped, then i seen a bracket under the right rear tire. that is near the 3ph valve .it has a big slide on it that you can loosen the bolts and turn it . i moved it a head about 7mm and readjusted screws on the rod .and now it works pretty well. if you pull back on 3ph lever and let go the rear blade goes all the way up then returns to center yea. if you push it forward the blade goes all the way down but the lever does not return to center on its own. just plowed snow with it, it seem to work well this way. now i need to add chains.

 

[GWD]

thanks for all you help. i adjusted the stops and the screws on that rod, that helped, then i seen a bracket under the right rear tire. that is near the 3ph valve .it has a big slide on it that you can loosen the bolts and turn it . i moved it a head about 7mm and readjusted screws on the rod .and now it works pretty well. if you pull back on 3ph lever and let go the rear blade goes all the way up then returns to center yea. if you push it forward the blade goes all the way down but the lever does not return to center on its own. just plowed snow with it, it seem to work well this way. now i need to add chains.

Actually, when the lower setting does not return to center it can be an advantage. The 3PH then stays in "float".

I've read where some folks use a bungee cord to keep the lever forward and maintain the float position. If it were me, I'd leave the settings you have just as they are. The lever can always be returned to center manually.

Good to hear the situation is resolved in a positive way.