What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
The ORANGE clashes with the RED, it would look much better with a GREEN tractor
Just kidding of course, that's a beautiful setup you have there.
I honestly am so disgusted with the thing, that it's sitting in the corner of the shop, waiting until I cool off a bit. I'll take some pictures when I attempt to mount it again.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Last time I had the chipper out it was chipping 3”+ stuff fine. 2”- was coming out long and stringy. 2” to 3” was a mixed bag depending on what it was. I know from prior experience with other chippers, that’s because the bigger stuff doesn’t flex much so it was getting cut at near perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the limb. The smaller stuff was flexing and eventually getting cut but not nearly as perpendicular as it should due to dull blades, excessive bed plate gap, or a combination of both. Between my brother and me it’s probably got a couple hundred hours on it, so not shocking it needs a tune up. I was busy with something or other at the time and figured I’d get to it before I used it again. Needed it so it was time.
I hadn’t had to mess with the blades before. They’re reversible and we’ve only used one side so worst case I’d have to flip them to the unused side. They weren’t terrible, no significant nicks or damage, but they were a bit dull and just starting to get a little wire edge. There are four blades with four M10 bolts per blade, 16 total, tapered head bolt with nylock nuts. Of course the manual says to not reuse the nylock nuts. That might be a bit over cautious but if just one nut came off while it’s running the mayhem isn’t something I want to even think about. Of course those nuts aren’t exactly hard to source but they’re also not available at a local hardware store, so I’ll get some on hand for next time. I should have at least reviewed the blade reversal procedure before shoving it in a corner for two months.
Anyway, as I was looking at it I was thinking it didn’t need a major sharpening or blade reversal; really just needed a little touch up. There’s a gap about 5/16” (as measured by amateur eyeball) between the flywheel and blade edge. Remembered a little diamond hone I used to touch up carbide shaper cutters and saw blades back when I did some furniture making. Scrounged it out of the sharpening stuff drawer and spent about 30 minutes removing the wire edge and bringing back the paper slicing sharp edge to all four blades without removing them. Greased everything that had a zerk and reset the bed plate gap just to be sure it was right.
Saturday, wife and I went around the perimeter of the three yards and along the private road with a pole saw trimming dead limbs and limbs that were encroaching too much into cleared spaces. Had a bunch of little limb piles, all along the border with the woods. We got rained out so we were only able to get about 90% of the trimming done and zero cleanup.
Today, finished the trimming. Then ran around the edge of the woods chasing the brush with the chipper, chipping straight into the woods. Did the same last year. As long as the chipper is moved frequently so there aren’t any big chip piles anywhere, it blends in to unnoticeable in a couple weeks. Biggest advantage is some of the limbs were 10’ to 15’ long, which is too long to grapple them down the trails to either of the two brush piles, and I wasn’t up for cutting them down further unless necessary. As a bonus, gave a decent test of the tune up.
Typical little piles around the perimeter.
Back to getting chips instead of some mess that looks like French cut green beans. Now, need to spend a little time with the one brush pile that seems to be growing faster than it is shrinking.
I hadn’t had to mess with the blades before. They’re reversible and we’ve only used one side so worst case I’d have to flip them to the unused side. They weren’t terrible, no significant nicks or damage, but they were a bit dull and just starting to get a little wire edge. There are four blades with four M10 bolts per blade, 16 total, tapered head bolt with nylock nuts. Of course the manual says to not reuse the nylock nuts. That might be a bit over cautious but if just one nut came off while it’s running the mayhem isn’t something I want to even think about. Of course those nuts aren’t exactly hard to source but they’re also not available at a local hardware store, so I’ll get some on hand for next time. I should have at least reviewed the blade reversal procedure before shoving it in a corner for two months.
Anyway, as I was looking at it I was thinking it didn’t need a major sharpening or blade reversal; really just needed a little touch up. There’s a gap about 5/16” (as measured by amateur eyeball) between the flywheel and blade edge. Remembered a little diamond hone I used to touch up carbide shaper cutters and saw blades back when I did some furniture making. Scrounged it out of the sharpening stuff drawer and spent about 30 minutes removing the wire edge and bringing back the paper slicing sharp edge to all four blades without removing them. Greased everything that had a zerk and reset the bed plate gap just to be sure it was right.
Saturday, wife and I went around the perimeter of the three yards and along the private road with a pole saw trimming dead limbs and limbs that were encroaching too much into cleared spaces. Had a bunch of little limb piles, all along the border with the woods. We got rained out so we were only able to get about 90% of the trimming done and zero cleanup.
Today, finished the trimming. Then ran around the edge of the woods chasing the brush with the chipper, chipping straight into the woods. Did the same last year. As long as the chipper is moved frequently so there aren’t any big chip piles anywhere, it blends in to unnoticeable in a couple weeks. Biggest advantage is some of the limbs were 10’ to 15’ long, which is too long to grapple them down the trails to either of the two brush piles, and I wasn’t up for cutting them down further unless necessary. As a bonus, gave a decent test of the tune up.
Typical little piles around the perimeter.
Back to getting chips instead of some mess that looks like French cut green beans. Now, need to spend a little time with the one brush pile that seems to be growing faster than it is shrinking.
Perhaps you should mention that to rainbows!
But seriously, thanks. And come to think of it, a red truck pulling an orange tractor with a yellow implement .... adding green might make some think there's a pattern emerging.
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I think the Nylon wears out and will loose its retaining properties when opened or closed several times. I use Loctite thread locker in case a new nut is not available. Correct tightening torque is always important.
I started on the M6060 Summit Hydraulics 4-way diverter upgrade this evening. I got a bar made up that mounts to the tractor using existing holes in the "fenders". The bar is 1-1/2"x1-1/2" square tubing with 0.120" wall thickness and the entire thing is as solid as a rock. The diverter is heavy, but the bar and bracket are more than up to the task of supporting it.
I'll finish the welding tomorrow and paint the whole thing with Kubota grey as well as touch up a couple of paint scratches that I made taking the bar out and putting it back in.
I'll finish the welding tomorrow and paint the whole thing with Kubota grey as well as touch up a couple of paint scratches that I made taking the bar out and putting it back in.
Transplanted another dozen trees last night. More to do but the yard is soft from rain.
Orange man
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L2502 LA526 loader , woods prd6000 mower, Land pride RB 1672
Installed the 3rd function kit and modified the handle so I can rest my elbow on the arm and use the joystick.
Greased the loader and replaced the cosmo ring on the spreader.
Not sure what happened to this one.
Not sure what happened to this one.
Split some firewood yesterday. I use the 6' bucket on the M5640 to lift and hold a load at working height and within easy reach.
gg
gg
A stupid question: if you have the loader up there surely is a tiny bit of leakage in the control valves (not multiplexers). How long does it take for the bucket to reach the ground (assuming good valves)? Are we talking hours, days, weeks, months?
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I've never heard of a "cosmo ring". Always something new to learn!
I laugh whenever I see a ring about that size..
when I got married (I am from rural area and one of my wife’s uncle is a long time dairy farmer in upstate NY) my wife’s uncle shook my hand after the we said I do and he left in my hand from the hand shake a bull ring (his wive gave Sara the key…I am sure some of you understand). Any way as I am looking at the brass, my best man (not rural at all) says,” did that guy give you a cock ring (dead serious) for the honeymoon?’ So the wife’s uncle and I start laughing, and I say, ‘ damnit, thats too small he got the wrong size’ and the look on my best friend was priceless.
. Fast forward a few years a buddy of mine (not rural) got married and my wife and I did the same gift for this friend of ours. So I shake the grooms hand and leave him a bull ring and he says,” is that a cock ring’. I start laughing and he says thanks but no way is that thing going to stay on.’so anyway I laugh whenever I see a ring…yes I never grew up. I hope this makes someone’s day.
#3 on the diagram. Lots of cosmos on the parts list.I've never heard of a "cosmo ring". Always something new to learn!
Attachments
I made more progress on the Summit Hydraulics kit that I'm adding to the M6060. I finished welding and painting yesterday and ran the wire into the cab this morning. I needed to cut off the connector on the end of the cable and it made the installation even easier and nicer. I was able to punch a hole in the factory grommet and pull the cable through. I installed all of the fittings, and stopped by the local Kubota dealer to have them make up a couple of hoses to connect the multiplier/diverter to #1 rear remotes.
I'm done with all of the exterior work. I did move the windshield washer fluid reservoir mounting bracket from the fender to the cross member. It's welded to the cross member now. I also made brackets for zip ties that I welded on the back side of the cross member. They came out of the large mounting plate that I welded to the cross member.
Summit Hydraulics makes a really nice kit, and even parts that I would expect to be cheap and merely good enough exceed expectations. The switch box for example is surprisingly nice, even though I won't be using it in this tractor. I will put it to use in my Jeep or '02 F-250 or maybe the M-1078.
I'm done with all of the exterior work. I did move the windshield washer fluid reservoir mounting bracket from the fender to the cross member. It's welded to the cross member now. I also made brackets for zip ties that I welded on the back side of the cross member. They came out of the large mounting plate that I welded to the cross member.
Summit Hydraulics makes a really nice kit, and even parts that I would expect to be cheap and merely good enough exceed expectations. The switch box for example is surprisingly nice, even though I won't be using it in this tractor. I will put it to use in my Jeep or '02 F-250 or maybe the M-1078.
Not a stupid question at all because some valves do not hold very well at all. If my FEL moves, and I guess it probably does, the amount is not at all noticeable. I can leave the bucket or 3ph up on that tractor and for all intents and purposes they stay up for a long time. I have never measured how long it takes to go all the way down or even 1" down because it isn't a problem. If I leave it raised at night it is still raised in the morning. No diverters, just stock OEM loader and 3ph valves. The 3rd function valves on the grapple are another story, They need to be tweaked every once in a while if I need to maintain full pressure for 10 or 15 minutes.
gg
Nice job there ! Question on how it operates - It looks like you have one of your rear remotes feeding a 4 way diverter - right?? If so to operate you would select a diverter and then operate the rear remote valve. My question is what kind of switches do you have on the diverter valves ? Momentary or toggle. Or maybe your rear remote is electric and not a double acting manual valve and each of the 4 diverter switches also activate the rear remote ??? Clear as mud ???
gg