North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
this was a very stubborn stuck gasket, it it with hard wire wheel on drill
Cleaned all the parts while waiting for new parts to arrive
There was a ton of sludge caked onto the inside of this part, solution: small T shaped hard wire wheel on drill, dip in diesel, use clamps to hold it down, hit it real hard both sides
Hit the crankshaft bearings again hard with small T shaped wire wheel, hit with parts cleaners
Japanese parts showed up: 2 new liners, 3 new crank bearings, 3 new connecting rod bearings, 2 sets of piston rings, one set of piston hardware, one new piston
Got nothing from messick, if yall care about it, I can elaborate
Before unboxing any of it, went to kubota website and made sure all the part numbers match for this engine
(I already messed up and got one wrong liner because one number was off in the part number)
Comparing new vs old japanese main bearings: top = 40 year old bearings, bottom = new bearings
New piston sitting on new liner
This is that part 210 from the diagram, the front crankshaft bearing, the one that had to be chiseled out
Thrust bearing: top is old one, bottom is new one
A liner on top of the liner that is slightly shifted down
Ok yes, now that parts are here: 1. sharpen a chisel or flathead, and hammer down the 2 liners that need replaced, 2. put together the crankshaft with the new bearings, 3. make appointment with the machine shop to have them install and hone the 2 bad liners (I am only replacing the 2 liners that had broken pistons, the other liner is perfect to the touch and piston was not broken)
I go figure it out
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Ktrim
Active member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Face the A and B which way?
This is how it was put together from when it was removed, with the A and B facing left (if front of crankshaft is the spindle)
The last crank bearing faces the back of the crankshaft because there are bolts that go into it
Serial number markings: Do I face them left or right?
The last serial number marking facing right of crankshaft
I looked at the diagram, it does not say which way to orient them
Were they installed properly when I removed them?
This is how it was put together from when it was removed, with the A and B facing left (if front of crankshaft is the spindle)
The last crank bearing faces the back of the crankshaft because there are bolts that go into it
Serial number markings: Do I face them left or right?
The last serial number marking facing right of crankshaft
I looked at the diagram, it does not say which way to orient them
Were they installed properly when I removed them?
Ktrim
Active member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
As bad as those journals look I wouldn't waste time putting bearings on them.
i just noticed that as well, they will eat those new bearings away..lol.
Yes I googled which way they are meant to face, cannot figure it out
hit the bell housing with wire wheels, greased the clutch bearing
I’ll keep trying to figure out which way they face
hit the bell housing with wire wheels, greased the clutch bearing
I’ll keep trying to figure out which way they face
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I told you to mark all the parts before removal as there orientation matters greatly.
I know on the rods have the numbers facing the injection pump side, I do not know about the mains, I'll see if I can find anything on them.
yes I did mark them, here’s a picture of before I took them apart
last person that put it together had the letters facing LEFT, and serial number numbers left for A and B, but serial number RIGHT for last main bearing
Here is how it was when I took it apart
When I took out the pistons, I do see kubota will put the 1 on the left, and the serial on the right
It could be correct the way it was, I am just making sure
I do not have the WSM, maybe I need to get that and look through it
this is a picture of when i took out the first piston, number "1" facing left of tractor, piston serial facing right of tractor
I had piston SERIAL, not piston number (1, 2 or 3) facing injection pump (which is right)
I had all piston numbers (1, 2 or 3) facing LEFT
More clues I notice that help: they will put writing on connecting rod facing FRONT for all the pistons
If A and B are on the left as pictured, there is writing facing FRONT on the main bearing case
I'll take a picture of what I mean,
Also I just remembered: everything is still factory inside the 600 hour engine with the whole in it, next chance I get, I can get under it with flashlight, trace how they have everything oriented using japanese writing on the bearing cases...
I'll show yall what I mean next chance i get..
it'll get figured out
Attachments
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Solved
went under factory engine with hole in it , pictures
I'm pointing to serial facing the back of the tractor for "A" and "B", hole is on LEFT side of tractor
In this one, we can confirm: SERIAL number of PISTON facing right (like wolf said)
Here is the piston that put a hole in the block, oriented exactly how it come out, serial facing injection pump/right of tractor
This is the rear bearing case serial facing FRONT of tractor, meaning
It is correct the way I had it labeled, the way it was taken apart
The thing I notice different about these two tractors with the stamps on the pistons:
Tractor with 2500 hours: has BOTH serial and piston #
Tractor with 600 hours: has ONLY serial number (facing right)
BOTH have serial numbers facing injection pump
In the mean time, I’ll go figure out how to remove the liners
Looking through the hole in the block, main bearing (A or B) serial facing REAR of tractor
went under factory engine with hole in it , pictures
I'm pointing to serial facing the back of the tractor for "A" and "B", hole is on LEFT side of tractor
In this one, we can confirm: SERIAL number of PISTON facing right (like wolf said)
Here is the piston that put a hole in the block, oriented exactly how it come out, serial facing injection pump/right of tractor
This is the rear bearing case serial facing FRONT of tractor, meaning
It is correct the way I had it labeled, the way it was taken apart
The thing I notice different about these two tractors with the stamps on the pistons:
Tractor with 2500 hours: has BOTH serial and piston #
Tractor with 600 hours: has ONLY serial number (facing right)
BOTH have serial numbers facing injection pump
In the mean time, I’ll go figure out how to remove the liners
Looking through the hole in the block, main bearing (A or B) serial facing REAR of tractor
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The liners should be pressed out and pressed in using a hydraulic press. If you try hammering them out and hammering them back in, you are running a greater risk of wasting the money spent on new parts than what a machine shop would charge you to do it properly with the correct equipment and experience doing this type of work.
The other thing that I noted was the excess grease on the throwout bearing. That grease will be thrown off and your new clutch disk and pressure plate will be the recipients of the grease. A new throw-out bearing is factory-greased with the proper grease and quantity.
The other thing that I noted was the excess grease on the throwout bearing. That grease will be thrown off and your new clutch disk and pressure plate will be the recipients of the grease. A new throw-out bearing is factory-greased with the proper grease and quantity.
yes I am listening, was fixing to sharpen a chisel and hammer down and split the liner
those people in the videos do it like it is not that difficult
I won’t put the liners in fear of damaging them, I will take the block to machine shop with liners removed, and new liners in hand
Separated it using small flathead
chisel and sledgehammer, hitting it at an angle, rotating the entire block working downward slowly
almost done. There’s no way it was possible to hydraulic press out this liner
it is fully seized to the block, it was one hour of chiseling just to get this far
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You're doing a nice job but you might reconsider reusing that head gasket. It's never a good idea to try to reuse a head gasket.
Are those dents,scratches and divots left in block from chiseling liner out?
Ktrim
Active member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
You do realize that a hydraulic press, properly used, distributes equal pressure all the way around. It would actually push out easier with a press. Now you have done quite a bit of possible irreparable damage to the block.
I'm really beginning to wonder if we aren't all being led on to a bad joke here.
Do you actually expect this engine to run again. Or at the least run for any amount of time.
I'm really beginning to wonder if we aren't all being led on to a bad joke here.
Do you actually expect this engine to run again. Or at the least run for any amount of time.
Got the liners out
View attachment 131693
Should have sharpened the chisel
Got the liner out way easier after I sharpened chisel with grinding wheel
Going into the next liner, way easier with sharpened chisel
Look at how nice it went down in one stride
Liner after I learned suffered much less damage, more damage to the liner before I sharpened chisel, mistake
Old liner out of block
Next time: I need to follow all steps and not skimp out on the basics even if I dont believe it will make a difference, it obviously did in this case
I'm thinking hit it with metal file that would level the surface of the bore, I'll look into a file set
next steps: Hit those bores with strong wire wheels trying to level them and get them ready for machine shop to put new liners and hone them 82 mm, make appointment with machine shop,
In the meantime, put together crankshaft assembly now that I checked the orientation of all serial numbers on the untouched/unassembled engine with the hole in it
I'm fixing to put thrust/main bearings and put together crankshaft assembly and see how she spins
View attachment 131693
Should have sharpened the chisel
Got the liner out way easier after I sharpened chisel with grinding wheel
Going into the next liner, way easier with sharpened chisel
Look at how nice it went down in one stride
Liner after I learned suffered much less damage, more damage to the liner before I sharpened chisel, mistake
Old liner out of block
Next time: I need to follow all steps and not skimp out on the basics even if I dont believe it will make a difference, it obviously did in this case
I'm thinking hit it with metal file that would level the surface of the bore, I'll look into a file set
next steps: Hit those bores with strong wire wheels trying to level them and get them ready for machine shop to put new liners and hone them 82 mm, make appointment with machine shop,
In the meantime, put together crankshaft assembly now that I checked the orientation of all serial numbers on the untouched/unassembled engine with the hole in it
I'm fixing to put thrust/main bearings and put together crankshaft assembly and see how she spins
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I guess I'll never understand why someone would "chisel out" the liners, when they are taking the block into the machine shop to have new liners pressed in. The shop has to set up on each cylinder, and would be little effort to press out the old ones at that time.
they think they are saving time and money would be my guess ?. but what they are going to find out is, once this machine shop see's the damage in the cylinder from the chisel marks ?. they are going to tell them they can't back up their work because of it.
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
I was surprised also to see the results of removing the liners in that fashion with the OP being ok with it.
And for my own knowledge. The old liners should have been PULLED with a liner puller and can not be pressed out thru the bottom of the block , correct ? , due to interference with the block casting ?
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Ktrim
Active member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Not sure on clearance on that block. But yes, proper tools for the job. Thousands will make the difference if the new liner will even not spin in the block
