Fixing hole in side of block

[joesmith123]

Found new machine shop and dropped off the block that needs milling,

told the guy doing it:
he get big tip if done within a month

Got a good feeling about this shop

Heavy duty post hole digger, goal: hit the broken weld with grinding wheel, weld on a new hinge

I point to stuck hinge, tried soaking in diesel, hit it with torch, won't budge

This hinge being stuck broke the weld

2nd big task: now that engine is in motion to be milled, this is the head from that engine, there is warping that you will see clearly once cleaned, also it did have bent valves etc, it will need some parts to make perfect

Goal: plane it well using some diy, level out burned area, go through clean it with abrasives of all kind, rebuild for later on

Another task: try to use that tool that pulled out pilot bearing, to

Finangle that tool on these connecting rods and try to remove damaged wrist pin bushing with new wrist pin bushing

now i go try remove those wrist pin bushings

Setup trying to pull bushing

Spray with diesel, hit with torch aiming at the connecting rod

Underneath, teeth gripping

2nd attempt

Did not work, caused damage to bushing

Not the right tool for the job

Video showing you why this tool not correct

Leave that task alone, wait til I get better setup, go rebuild that old head with 2500 hours

 

[joesmith123]

Rebuilding head with 2500 hours

Leveled ground with rake, cleaned up table get ready to rebuild head

Pictures of it

Last picture: exact setup for pushing down springs, left hand pushing down tie rod separator, right hand with pik removing the holder, wear glasses

Finally got the valves out, they were stubborn, very stuck

The smaller holes are fully clogged on all 3

The valves with the pitting metal were most seized, most stubborn

Now: hit all sides of block with abrasives soaked in diesel, experiment with the flap disc sanding

 

[fried1765]

Rebuilding head with 2500 hours


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Leveled ground with rake, cleaned up table get ready to rebuild head

Pictures of it

Last picture: exact setup for pushing down springs, left hand pushing down tie rod separator, right hand with pik removing the holder, wear glasses

And.........on we go !!

 

[ejb11235]

@joesmith123 Glad you wore glasses during the valve removal. That's quite an ingenious setup you used to compress the valve springs. I don't know if it's frowned upon, but there's also a technique there you put a socket down on the valve and give it a hit with a mallet. Sometimes that will cause the keepers to fall out. But probably better to do what you did and keep it controlled.

 

[MountainMeadows]

I'll say one thing Joe: You've got more Ambition then All the Naysayers on this forum combined!

 

[MountainMeadows]

When it comes to those wrist pin bushings you're going to need at least a 20 ton hydraulic press and the correct bushing driver. Your best bet may be to take them to the machine shop and let them change them.

 

[joesmith123]

Hit the head hard with abrasives

Files and chisels breaking away at the buildup on the block around essential passageways

Best way to break down crud: chisel and a small hammer chipping away at the crud lightly, not digging into block

Hit with diesel, then compressed air, then flap disc 80 grip on all flat surfaces

Using smaller front facing wire wheels getting all holes, spin both direction

Using round file going through all ports filing away the crud, dip file in diesel

Hit with parts cleaner

 

[Jim L.]

By your picture I see that you also noticed the pitting on the cylinder head. Wonder if that could be caused by coolant getting in.

Otherwise, nice job on cleaning up!

 

[Vlach7]

By your picture I see that you also noticed the pitting on the cylinder head. Wonder if that could be caused by coolant getting in.

Otherwise, nice job on cleaning up!

2 of the valves looked different than the others.

 

[joesmith123]

By your picture I see that you also noticed the pitting on the cylinder head. Wonder if that could be caused by coolant getting in.

Otherwise, nice job on cleaning up!

My theory as to why it pitted: the ports on that rear cylinder were so clogged, it put pressure on the head and separated it from the block

Causing explosion to escape from where they belong, causing the permanent damage to the head

(My theory just on instinct)

2 of the valves looked different than the others.

Yes, I think explosions were escaping their designated area, and caused permanent damage to those two valves

I still have yet to hit everything with wire wheel, this was just first cleaning to get the big crud

Plan with the pitted head: plane it as good as possible, then get a good gasket, and then see what the pressure test says

I think a good gasket will do the job and I will be hitting the seat of the valves HARD with everything so that valves sit flat

@joesmith123 Glad you wore glasses during the valve removal.

The other day I was taking out a snap ring on one of the gears, it shot out whizzing past my eye

Never again do I do anything without eye protection if there's a chance of something flying

Remind me to show yall my favorite tool, most used tool

When it comes to those wrist pin bushings you're going to need at least a 20 ton hydraulic press and the correct bushing driver.

Yes, ktrim said I need press ten pages ago, I need to see how others do it and and emulate them

Tasks moving forward: keep filing away the crud in the ports, hit head hard with fast wire wheel, hit valves hard, put it back together

Next goal: weld the hinge on auger, rebuild the auger and try to get it to work on bx1500

Head gasket lined up, pitted area is in explosion zone of 3rd cylinder