What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[NCL4701]

Back to clearing ATV/walking trails this morning. Today’s area wasn’t very challenging for the most part. Grapple didn’t fall off this time, maybe luck or maybe the SSQA handle tie downs added since the incident a while back when I was last able to work on this project. Glad I had the winch today. Used it to pull down a couple of decent sized, half fallen, dead trees I really wouldn’t have liked to be standing under while working on them with a saw.

Finished the initial tractor part. Still need to do some more pruning and hit a couple tiny sapling clusters with the weedeater with blade. Also plan to come back with some white marker flags and orange marker flags: white for old stump holes that need filling and orange for stumps that need grinding out. Hoping to come back with the bucket and stump grinder to put the finishing touches on it one day in the next couple weeks.

About halfway through today’s outing, noticed the lens had disappeared from the DPF inhibit button. Appears to work. Light still lights when it’s pressed. Just missing the lens. I have never used this button and don’t really care about the lens but if I leave it like that, it’s a little cup just waiting to be filled with water, dust, wood chips, etc.

Can get one for about $45. Haven’t looked at the WSM to map out a path to it yet. From a brief look at the tractor it appears to be easy to change out if you can dig down to it. Kind of like a throw out bearing on a clutch. If it’s bad enough to get to, it might end up with a custom piece of Lexan for a lid. I think I could draw the little broccoli thing and put a line through it for $45.

 

[JimDeL]

View attachment 134122 Back to clearing ATV/walking trails this morning. Today’s area wasn’t very challenging for the most part. Grapple didn’t fall off this time, maybe luck or maybe the SSQA handle tie downs added since the incident a while back when I was last able to work on this project. Glad I had the winch today. Used it to pull down a couple of decent sized, half fallen, dead trees I really wouldn’t have liked to be standing under while working on them with a saw. View attachment 134123 Finished the initial tractor part. Still need to do some more pruning and hit a couple tiny sapling clusters with the weedeater with blade. Also plan to come back with some white marker flags and orange marker flags: white for old stump holes that need filling and orange for stumps that need grinding out. Hoping to come back with the bucket and stump grinder to put the finishing touches on it one day in the next couple weeks. View attachment 134124
About halfway through today’s outing, noticed the lens had disappeared from the DPF inhibit button. Appears to work. Light still lights when it’s pressed. Just missing the lens. I have never used this button and don’t really care about the lens but if I leave it like that, it’s a little cup just waiting to be filled with water, dust, wood chips, etc. View attachment 134125 Can get one for about $45. Haven’t looked at the WSM to map out a path to it yet. From a brief look at the tractor it appears to be easy to change out if you can dig down to it. Kind of like a throw out bearing on a clutch. If it’s bad enough to get to, it might end up with a custom piece of Lexan for a lid. I think I could draw the little broccoli thing and put a line through it for $45. View attachment 134126

I'd search Amazon, or maybe Granger or McMaster Carr for similar, but generic switches like that. Maybe find one with a lens you can use - for a whole lot less money.

 

[fried1765]

Our outing was to the Jacksonville, FL facility. It was a quite unique facility and experience. Compared to other hospitals and medical facilities I’ve been involved with it seemed to be several notches above.

Good to hear that!
My relationship with the Mayo Clinic has always been with the "mother" clinic in Rochester, MN.

 

[jay296]

If it is impossible to get a Kubota dealer involved the only answer that I would have is to do a DPF delete. While many will object to tampering with emission systems, you are left with no choice. Search online for information and products to do the delete but be careful with sending payment to a supplier without checking references. Also, there might be laws where you are that prohibit tampering with emissions systems, you need to do a lot of homework.

I deleted my mx6000 myself for free and it works great. Very glad i did it.

 

[mikester]

I'd replace the pipe. Welding thin stuff sucks, and if one area of the pipe is thin another area is likely thin. Sure, it could be just that one pin-hole, but you have to pull the line to weld it anyway because heating steel to 2,220°F with a layer of hydraulic oil inside it is (from personal experience) probably not the wisest thing to attempt.

P.S. If you do choose to weld it in place, get it on video.

Ordered the replacement part Wednesday afternoon and got the part Friday morning. Thank you K for keeping parts readily available! Getting ready to lift the cab off so I can get remove the deck to change the line.

I'm thinking now's the time to buy some self adhesive heat shield/sound deadener for the bottom of the deck. The temp in the cab got to 54oC or 130oF last week bush hogging.

 

[MOOTS]

I deleted my mx6000 myself for free and it works great. Very glad i did it.

Can you explain how?

 

[memtb]

Actually a couple of days ago, and took two days to complet.

I have a M60/40 with full cab. It was bought about 6 or 7 years ago….looking like new with only a bit over 900 hours use. I don’t use it much/often, so the hours have slowly added up.

I’ve only done one oil/filter change, as it had a fresh change just prior to my purchase.

At just under 1300 hours, I decided it was well overdue for another oil/filter change and complete hydraulic oil (tranny and front end) change-out. Yes……I’m not overly aggressive with proper maintenance. Wow, what an expensive and somewhat tedious job when doing the hydraulic system the first time.

I had an older, 12 ft. Disc which I’d never used (though, new hoses installed a couple years ago) though I plan to. So first priority was to connect to the disc, lift/lower a few times to flush the ancient fluids from it into my system as not to contaminate my new fluids/filters. It turned into a bit of a challenge, but once done, tacked the fluid change-out.

Pretty time consuming in 100+ degree temperature. But over a period of two days, while doing other tasks around the place and visiting family not seen in several years…..it’s done!

At my present usage of the tractor, I may be in my “Happy Hunting Grounds” before it’s time for another tranny fluids/filter change…..which won’t hurt my feelings. Hopefully, the “bank loan” will be paid-off before then! memtb

 

[Siesta Sundance]

I deleted my mx6000 myself for free and it works great. Very glad i did it.

Can you explain how?

X2 intrested as well

 

[S-G-R]

Gave the driveway a touch up with the land plane.

Then I went looking for my aerator. It's here somewhere...

 

[Oleracer]

 

[Gaspasser]

Fired up WoodMaxx chipper for the first time. My first PTO driven implement experience. Even with deflector all the way down, overshot the truck. Finished and found windshield and hood covered in chips. Will have to park truck on uphill side tomorrow.

 

[mdhughes]

I had a little rust spot on the left fender across from the seat. I used my finger nail to loosen the paint that started to chip off. Turned out to be about the size of a dime. Used a little sandpaper to get rid of the rust, then taped it off and painted it. doesn't look all that great, I didn't flare the edges enough, but I hope it will keep it from rusting any more.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Finished up the T&T and 3rd Fn hydraulics, then mowed the lawn. Electronics for the 3rd Fn will have to wait until I get the fuse block installed.

As a note, the long hose in theory would go to the rear hydraulic block, the short hose to the pipe, but my hose situation didn't work that way and does work the other way. It's a bad kit design by Landpride (China sourced it appears), the long hose should be shorter and the short longer (at least given what I received).

 

[Old_Paint]

Fired up WoodMaxx chipper for the first time. My first PTO driven implement experience. Even with deflector all the way down, overshot the truck. Finished and found windshield and hood covered in chips. Will have to park truck on uphill side tomorrow. View attachment 134217 View attachment 134218

Wow. That seems odd that the deflector won't turn down any farther. Not saying it's better, but my Woodland Mills WC-68 will point down enough to nearly bury itself in chips. Not a good way to run it because it tends to clog the chute more often depending on wood species, but I can pretty much fill up my little 5x7 trailer that's just a little over knee high on the bed with very little spill-over. That's some chunky stuff you're chipping, but I'm sure the M60 handles it just fine. That's roughly 3x the tractor I have.

I flip-flopped back and forth between Woodland Mills and the WoodMaxx for a while before I bought the WC-68. I've had it 2 years now, and I've chipped a LOT of brush with it. It's a great way to get rid of deadfall and small scrub with less burning in a restricted (not banned, just restricted) area. If I burned as much as I used to, all the new Karens in all the new developments around me would make my life miserable. I liked the dual infeed rolls on the WoodMaxx, but I also liked the direct drive of the chipper disk (4 blades on the WC-68. The flywheel turns half the speed with twice as many blades, so same approximate cut speed as long as I have enough horsepower. The flywheel on the WC-68 is 200 pounds, so what it lacks in rotational speed, it makes up for with kinectic energy in the weight. I get an occasional clog in the chute because of the lower rotational speed, but the clam-shell design with ONE bolt makes it pretty easy to clean out. I just have be aware of the species and size when I'm feeding it to prevent large chips from getting stuck in the chute to clog it. I had to turn the in-feed nearly off to prevent stalling the LX2610 on the largest stuff (hardwood about 4 inches, pine 5 inches), but had to do that anyway to prevent clogs. A better proportional valve for the infeed speed control would have made me happier, but overall, I have no real complaints. Both brands had some features I liked and some I didn't. A combination of the two would have been brilliant. The only belt on the WC-68 is the one to drive the hydraulic pump for the infeed. About a 5 minute job to swap it. I have no large expensive belts to hassle with. I just reversed the knives for the first time this spring and swapped the belt from one I got from a local auto parts house. I'll likely just buy a maintenance kit for it from Woodland Mills which includes all new knife bolts too. I'll keep the old bolts for spares, though I pray I never need one.

 

[Old_Paint]

Finished up the T&T and 3rd Fn hydraulics, then mowed the lawn. Electronics for the 3rd Fn will have to wait until I get the fuse block installed.

As a note, the long hose in theory would go to the rear hydraulic block, the short hose to the pipe, but my hose situation didn't work that way and does work the other way. It's a bad kit design by Landpride (China sourced it appears), the long hose should be shorter and the short longer (at least given what I received).

View attachment 134220

Did you use an OE (Kubota) kit or 3rd party (Summit, etc)? I used the Summit kit for the 3FV, and other than the valve not being a Power Beyond type valve and I have few complaints. It was super easy to install, especially with the boom off the tractor and the seat mounting bracket removed. I didn't have to remove the rear wheels or fenders to install it. I've looked into a Kubota valve kit for the rear remotes, and may have to re-engineer the 3FV piping/hoses, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

[Gaspasser]

Fired up WoodMaxx chipper for the first time. My first PTO driven implement experience. Even with deflector all the way down, overshot the truck. Finished and found windshield and hood covered in chips. Will have to park truck on uphill side tomorrow. View attachment 134217

Wow. That seems odd that the deflector won't turn down any farther. Not saying it's better, but my Woodland Mills WC-68 will point down enough to nearly bury itself in chips. Not a good way to run it because it tends to clog the chute more often depending on wood species, but I can pretty much fill up my little 5x7 trailer that's just a little over knee high on the bed with very little spill-over. That's some chunky stuff you're chipping, but I'm sure the M60 handles it just fine. That's roughly 3x the tractor I have.

I flip-flopped back and forth between Woodland Mills and the WoodMaxx for a while before I bought the WC-68. I've had it 2 years now, and I've chipped a LOT of brush with it. It's a great way to get rid of deadfall and small scrub with less burning in a restricted (not banned, just restricted) area. If I burned as much as I used to, all the new Karens in all the new developments around me would make my life miserable. I liked the dual infeed rolls on the WoodMaxx, but I also liked the direct drive of the chipper disk (4 blades on the WC-68. The flywheel turns half the speed with twice as many blades, so same approximate cut speed as long as I have enough horsepower. The flywheel on the WC-68 is 200 pounds, so what it lacks in rotational speed, it makes up for with kinectic energy in the weight. I get an occasional clog in the chute because of the lower rotational speed, but the clam-shell design with ONE bolt makes it pretty easy to clean out. I just have be aware of the species and size when I'm feeding it to prevent large chips from getting stuck in the chute to clog it. I had to turn the in-feed nearly off to prevent stalling the LX2610 on the largest stuff (hardwood about 4 inches, pine 5 inches), but had to do that anyway to prevent clogs. A better proportional valve for the infeed speed control would have made me happier, but overall, I have no real complaints. Both brands had some features I liked and some I didn't. A combination of the two would have been brilliant. The only belt on the WC-68 is the one to drive the hydraulic pump for the infeed. About a 5 minute job to swap it. I have no large expensive belts to hassle with. I just reversed the knives for the first time this spring and swapped the belt from one I got from a local auto parts house. I'll likely just buy a maintenance kit for it from Woodland Mills which includes all new knife bolts too. I'll keep the old bolts for spares, though I pray I never need one.

Thanks for feedback Paint. I'm new to implements and did the usual forum/internet review searches. Called WoodMaxx a few times with questions. I did insist on American made as I have found such equipment to be better built. Have a 18 hp stand alone used chipper but it just wasn't cutting it. Sorry for unintended pun. I can burn brush as well with a permit from local fire wardens and a call to fire dispatch. However, can only do so if 1) ground is snow covered, 2) it is actively raining ( figure that one out), 3 ) burn between hours of 5pm to 5am ( overnight). Plus green brush doesn't burn well and I don't relish staying up all night to monitor burn. So for first run, I'm happy with it. I do need to adjust the safety bar/infeed speed control bar to keep it from slipping into neutral.

 

[fried1765]

I had a little rust spot on the left fender across from the seat. I used my finger nail to loosen the paint that started to chip off. Turned out to be about the size of a dime. Used a little sandpaper to get rid of the rust, then taped it off and painted it. doesn't look all that great, I didn't flare the edges enough, but I hope it will keep it from rusting any more.

On rust spots like that, it is a good idea to use OSPHO first (Phosphoric Acid).
Then do touch up paint several days later.
Will provide a better, longer lasting, paint repair.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

@Old_Paint :
Disclaimer: I've only used gas industrial chippers before my WoodMaxx.

My USA-made WoodMaxx deflector is similarly short and doesn't turn down, it throws fast and far (to the point I'm going to make a long, curved chute). With a fast, heavy (I believe direct-drive) wheel loaded with blades it overcomes the issues you describe (I'm surprised how capable as it is, but it is). From what I read/remember Woodland Mills also makes great products though at more affordable prices.

I bought a Kubota T&T, it's a tight fit but it does fit and has good instructions. LandPride 3rd Fn because of the button layout and seemingly better solution than Summit--though having installed it I'm betting Summit (also imported from what I understand) has better quality and far better instructions--LandPride literally leaves out all the most important stuff and says to have your dealer install it. The LandPride kit is Power Beyond so it's easy to use though the BX pump is so small it can only power one heavy task at a time (or two easy tasks).

In the end I'm happy to have the additional hydraulics, the BX2370 is a lot of tractor in a small package.

 

[dirtydeed]

...more ditching since it's been so dry here lately.

I should've put some drain tile in this summer since the excavation work has dried up as well. I don't know if people are on vacation or if their disposable funds are no longer, my phone hasn't been ringing for excavation work. I suppose that I will need to find another plumbing company to start filling in.

Anyway, did some ditching improvements before the rain hits this week. I didn't bother with the laser level today. I hope that wasn't a mistake. Time will tell.

Improved ditch drain:

Area 2:

 

[S-G-R]

Mowed 4 acres and moved on to my watering. I've come to the conclusion that I'll be watering twice a week until the fall.