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Oh yeah when starting after the filter change and bleeding I glowed plugged for a minute then I used the decompression lever and pulled it out and spun up the engine until the oil light went out then tried starting. It generally took a couple try's to start but it will catch and then I simply checked for leaks.

Meanjean, When I replaced the radiator hoses on my L1801 I just took the old hoses off and made a trip to NAPA and they match the hoses on mine. I would recommend that you also replace the lower hose at the same time. That way you are in once and back out. ON the filter change you still will need to bleed the lines . There should be a screw in thing that has a straight slot screw driver thing next to the fuel filter and one on the pump. You loosen these until no more bubbles appear and then retighten. You do not completely remove these just loosen until the fuel starts out of them.

Top hose is where the leak is.
Can I use any rad hose or does it have to be Kubota?
I'm tempted to go to the shop and buy a regular rad hose.
Looking to buy the fuel filter tomorrow. I recall a video which mentions being able to change the filter without having to bleed the lines.
Something about tightening the filter half on, opening the pet-cock, tightening the filter all the way on when fuel pours out.
Are you familiar with this method?

LOL no problem good luck with the B-7100

Stan

I traded for a Kabota B-7100, and would like to know what year it is. Serial number: B7000-500062. Anyone have that information? Thanks.

Could u tell me year if i give you a serial number? Thanks!

Ok Stan. I think I need something in my milk. Just call me stupid. Cause I think your last name is Tipton. Sorry. I'm new here, and new to Kabota. Just traded for my B7100 Kabota, day before yesterday. Don

Mr Vic Sir. I have just traded for a Kabota, B-7100, w/loader, and FS850 tiller. Could you tell me the year? Serial number off the transmission, left side. (b7100-50062) Thank you. Don, Kokomo, In 46902

Stan. Don here, Kokomo, In, 46902. Are you from Tipton, In?? Don

I have a Jacobsen Turfcat Mower with a Kubota 950 Diesel 3 cyl motor.I am have a problem when starting,it smokes for about 2-3 minutes then clears up and runs fine,could this be bad Injectors?

Where in Ky is your location and could one come look at parts available?
I would be interested in B2400 HST parts and FEL also.
You can reply here or txt to 270-559-8870.
Thx

If I was guessing on that other tractor I bet it's a safety switch that's keeping it from starting. I have had very good luck with my Kubotas. I have 2 right now, my 2nd and forth. My dad bought me a used B 7100 when I was a kid and I used that tractor for everything. I kept it for 16 yrs and when I traded it in on my L 3000 it had over 6000 hrs on it and still running fine. I bought a M 9000 in 02 and traded it in on a M 9000 cab model in 04. I would like to have another one in the 50 to 70 hp range. Good luck with your bota.

Sounds like a bizarre machine. I look forward to chatting with my Dad re: this tr9tor as it would interest him.
How would you trouble shoot buddies no start problem?
Needed some more info from him. IE: Is it turning over?
I've had my L1801 since Aug 2 and am really happy with it. Use to take me almost 7 hours to mow our 5 acres. Now I'm down to roughly 2.
Changed out all fluids but the coolant. Doing fuel filter early next week.

On the radiator leak really check the upper and lower hoses as they are alot of the time they are really old. I have found more leaks from the hoses then the radiator itself. If the top or bottom of the tank are leaking then the radiator will have to be pulled and easiest thing to do is to find a radiator shop that can braze it. I would also at that time also have them "rod" the inner parts of the radiator and you will have then a complete rebuild of the radiator and not have to worry about it. If the radiator is rodded out I also would take the hoses off and go to NAPA and have them match or look up a L185 hoses as I believe that they are the same (I am not absolutely sure on this) as when I got my L1801 it had brand new hoses on it 7 years ago and never had to have them replaced. If you can not find a rad shop then a new radiator is the only option but that is expensive and you will have to order a radiator for a L185.

Diesel engines have a set firing order like a gas engine and require fuel and air to run but that is about where the similarities end. Diesels don't require spark plugs to fire. They have a much higher compression ratio than gas engines do and actually compress the fuel until it burns. The diesel tractor I refered to with spark plugs in it is still a amazing feet of engineering to me. It was a old (50 something model) International Farmall M D. I guess the reason for what they did was simply a lack of diesel technology and this was how there starting problems were solved. This tractor was both a gas and diesel engine in one. It started on gas and after a short warm up you would switch it to diesel. After you switched it to diesel this is where you left it during operation. The gas was only for start up and shut down. It only idled during the gas operation. Pretty neat tractor though. It was a work horse back in the day.

Been nice chatting with you. Drop me a line anytime.

I am not familiar with diesel engines. Do they use a similar ignition system with their gas counterparts?

I swapped out the oil filter last week thinking it was something else. Just draining the rear axel fluid now, will have it all changed out in 30 mins.
Just noticed a rad leak...damn.
Fuel filter will be replaced next week.
Feels good getting all the fluids changed.
Thabks for the advise.

The oil filter is sitting sideways on the right hand side of the engine about half between the front and back side of the engine. The fuel filter is located near the rear of the engine on the right hand side. For life of me I do not remember the filter numbers but Mr K and Vic have the filter numbers for the Napa filters and they are made by Wix and are of high quality and they are what I used.

Oh one thing when you repack the front hubs I used high temperature disc brake grease as it tended to be a better product and it did a better job of keeping the water out of the hubs if you keep your tractor outside. On mine it was always kept in the garage as I liked having a dry seat .

That's A1 info Michael. I like the point you make comparing the price of a rod end versus grease. I will put together a log on the tractor tomorrow.
Need to do an engine oil change/oil filter plus gear oil in the rear end and I will have replaced all the fluid other than the coolant. I will buy a coolant checking device tomorrow.
Where is the oul filter on this machine? I took a quick peek the other day and couldn't locate.
I cleaned the suction filter last week, amazing the pile of crap the filter caught. I don't think the previous owner ever did it!

meanjean, I am sorry but there is no known owner's manual for the L1801 in either hard copy or PDF. The closest North American manual for this model tractor is the owner's manual is the L185. I personally always serviced my old L1801 changing the oil and diesel filters every 100 hours or once a year which ever was first. Servicing the gearbox I did it once every 2 years and cleaning the transmission screen and I greased my L1801 every ten hours as grease is cheap but buying new tie rod ends is expensive. If you have the four wheel drive model I would also keep the front axle service every two years also if it is a 2 wheel drive model as I had I repacked the front hubs every year.