I have a 2015 zg127s. Long story short it won't turn over. It was getting where it wouldn't start without gas in the carburetor. Thought fuel filter was stopped up. I put new fuel and air filter, spark plugs, battery and solenoid. It will not turn over without jumper cables hooked to a vehicle and has to have starting fluid to start.
Zg127s wont turn over
- Thread starter Sagelawncare
- Start date
Keep using starter fluid and soon it wont matter as the engine will be so damaged as to be junk.
When you were having to add gasoline to the carb did you ever think to check the fuel pump?
Are you stating the battery is brand new? What about the battery cable ends?
Any like this one:
You need some basic electrical equipment to solve your problems in an organized logical fashion.
A 12 volt test light and a cheap multi meter.
Kubota has issued a notice of an improved brake switch. In other words a Service Bulletin.
ZG/Z100 SERIES BRAKE SWITCH ADOPTION KIT
Model(s): ZG127E-54 & ZG127S-54
serial number ZG127E-54 & Z125EBR-54 Up to 14615/
Key Part Number: K9301194300
Your machine will have a complicated OPC (Operator Presence Controller) system.
If you don't have any experience diagnosing these systems it might be time for dealer's help.
Dave
If I had the mower in front of me I'd do the following in order
test battery. Open circuit voltage test and then a load test. Record the voltage readings. If low on the load test, replace it with a good battery-not a cheap one. These Kohler engines require a lot of cranking amps for several reasons.
Once that's addressed, I'd look at the throttle cable. Push the throttle to full forward position. Then go to the back of the mower and look at the choke link on the governor/linkage plate. Can I push the choke rod a little further by hand? If so, adjust the throttle cable so that the choke actually fully chokes, such that there is no freeplay in the choke rod with the throttle lever pushed fully forward as far as it'll go.
Can you provide the battery voltage test results? I have a second idea but it'll require the voltage tests first. It can be done on the machine using a digital volt-ohm meter set to DC volts. With the key off whats the voltage? Then, turn the key to start as if you are starting the engine. Whats the cranking voltage measured at the battery?
test battery. Open circuit voltage test and then a load test. Record the voltage readings. If low on the load test, replace it with a good battery-not a cheap one. These Kohler engines require a lot of cranking amps for several reasons.
Once that's addressed, I'd look at the throttle cable. Push the throttle to full forward position. Then go to the back of the mower and look at the choke link on the governor/linkage plate. Can I push the choke rod a little further by hand? If so, adjust the throttle cable so that the choke actually fully chokes, such that there is no freeplay in the choke rod with the throttle lever pushed fully forward as far as it'll go.
Can you provide the battery voltage test results? I have a second idea but it'll require the voltage tests first. It can be done on the machine using a digital volt-ohm meter set to DC volts. With the key off whats the voltage? Then, turn the key to start as if you are starting the engine. Whats the cranking voltage measured at the battery?
The battery is new I got it tonight put it on and nothing. It has 340 CCA and 425 ca. I think I'm going to try replacing the battery cables. They have melted some. Also I talked to a mechanic he said the choke prob needed to be adjusted to. I will try that tomorrow.
ask yourself why do the cables look melted?
What causes wires to get hot enough to partially melt the insulation?
Since no battery voltages were given, I can only assume that the new battery has at least 12.50v at rest, and at least 10.5v while cranking. Yes I have seen TONS of "new" batteries die/dead. How long do they sit on the shelf? Who knows? (Used to do dealer work so I saw things that few get to witness)
I have a theory. Without the battery voltage readings I can't say for sure however I'll ASSume that the no load voltage is 12.5v+ and the loaded voltage is 11.25+. Since the choke is not adjusted correctly that tells me that the engine has seen excessive cranking time trying to get it to start. Two things happen. One, the wiring gets hot. Two, the starter dies. The original starters were inadequate for mower usage. The updated Kohler (and kubota) starter is MUCH beefier with a larger shaft assembly and approximately a 40% increase in starting torque/speed. It is a nice upgrade. Or you can be cheap and buy a few dozen chinese starters, and you will have to buy more than one. The Kubota/Kohler starter is the best. Lastly maintenance. The SV840 engine does not have hydraulic valve lifters meaning you will have to adjust the valve clearance sometimes. If left alone (lack of maintenance) the valve clearance will open up which causes the engine compression pressure to rise considerably which puts more load on the starter, wiring, battery, solenoid leading to OE (and chinese replacement) starter failure, wiring problems, solenoid problems, etc.
There's an easy way to diagnose which I've outlined before, search the site for it. These things are super easy to diagnose a no/slow start. I loved working on them at the dealer. 4 years of warranty and the only time we ever saw them at the shop was for warranty repair. Warranty pays a certain amount of labor and on no-start conditions typically 0.5 hour diagnosis and maybe if we were lucky 0.4 hour to replace a safety switch. It took me longer to get the non running mower TO the work bay than it did to diag a no-start condition. We got paid pretty good, or at least I did. The other techs couldn't wrap their brains around a voltage drop test.
What causes wires to get hot enough to partially melt the insulation?
Since no battery voltages were given, I can only assume that the new battery has at least 12.50v at rest, and at least 10.5v while cranking. Yes I have seen TONS of "new" batteries die/dead. How long do they sit on the shelf? Who knows? (Used to do dealer work so I saw things that few get to witness)
I have a theory. Without the battery voltage readings I can't say for sure however I'll ASSume that the no load voltage is 12.5v+ and the loaded voltage is 11.25+. Since the choke is not adjusted correctly that tells me that the engine has seen excessive cranking time trying to get it to start. Two things happen. One, the wiring gets hot. Two, the starter dies. The original starters were inadequate for mower usage. The updated Kohler (and kubota) starter is MUCH beefier with a larger shaft assembly and approximately a 40% increase in starting torque/speed. It is a nice upgrade. Or you can be cheap and buy a few dozen chinese starters, and you will have to buy more than one. The Kubota/Kohler starter is the best. Lastly maintenance. The SV840 engine does not have hydraulic valve lifters meaning you will have to adjust the valve clearance sometimes. If left alone (lack of maintenance) the valve clearance will open up which causes the engine compression pressure to rise considerably which puts more load on the starter, wiring, battery, solenoid leading to OE (and chinese replacement) starter failure, wiring problems, solenoid problems, etc.
There's an easy way to diagnose which I've outlined before, search the site for it. These things are super easy to diagnose a no/slow start. I loved working on them at the dealer. 4 years of warranty and the only time we ever saw them at the shop was for warranty repair. Warranty pays a certain amount of labor and on no-start conditions typically 0.5 hour diagnosis and maybe if we were lucky 0.4 hour to replace a safety switch. It took me longer to get the non running mower TO the work bay than it did to diag a no-start condition. We got paid pretty good, or at least I did. The other techs couldn't wrap their brains around a voltage drop test.
I read on some other sites and was leaning toward needing new cables. I went out today and tried to crank it and was pulling the cables and the negative cable was the issue. Changed it and adjusted the choke and it's running like new.
Disconnect battery
Remove engine cover
Disconnect positive cable on starter
Remove the two starter bolts
Remove starter
Reverse steps for install
Anyone else add if I forgot something, I did mine almost a year ago
