I need a little advice. I have a ZD28 with slightly less than 1000 hours. Approximately a year ago when I would try to start it would click a few times and then start. I thought it was the starter selenoid and replaced it over the winter. So far this year it was good. The other day I went to start it and all the lights worked, but it wouldn't even click. I worked on it today, cleaned out the grass and stuff underneath, thinking perhaps it was a safety switch. After cleaning, it started right up. It started 8-10 times, no issues. Put it back together and went to start and it clicked several times and then started. Question is, could it be the starter? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
ZD28
- Thread starter Debaglio
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
The clicking is the solenoid moving the pinion into the flywheel.
Simultaneously it closes a contact for the rotor current to flow (fat cable from battery). When it is clicking and starter not moving it can be that those contacts are burnt. Alternatively the brushes for the starter rotor could be worn.
Other than that there is only the cables from the battery (also ground wire!) that you said you checked already. Or the battery itself. You may put a voltmeter from battery minus to the fat starter plus cable and check voltage while starting. A new battery can be dead too (unfortunately).
Is there any adjustment on the solenoid? In this case maybe it is not pushing the pinion far enough for the contact to close.
Simultaneously it closes a contact for the rotor current to flow (fat cable from battery). When it is clicking and starter not moving it can be that those contacts are burnt. Alternatively the brushes for the starter rotor could be worn.
Other than that there is only the cables from the battery (also ground wire!) that you said you checked already. Or the battery itself. You may put a voltmeter from battery minus to the fat starter plus cable and check voltage while starting. A new battery can be dead too (unfortunately).
Is there any adjustment on the solenoid? In this case maybe it is not pushing the pinion far enough for the contact to close.
Typically there isn't.
Check the voltage while starting, this rules out battery, cables, connections.
If voltage good I would check the high current contact. If those are in the solenoid they should be good, because you replaced that (picture of starter would help). That leaves the brushes. Or windings themselves.
Wrt the contact: it burns off when releasing the start key, the stored energy causes a spark. So the contact opening last burns off even more, the gap getting bigger. In most faulty starter cases I had it was sufficient just to turn the moving contact part by 180 degrees and cleaning the contacts a bit.
Ok, got the starter drawing:
The contact is in the solenoid, you changed that, so contact should be fine. Should, not must
Check the voltage between battery minus and the plus contact (orange arrow) when starting. If this is good check voltage between battery minus and behind contact (green arrow).
If voltage is good in both cases the brushes are behind the cover (blue arrow).
Do you have a work shop manual? This outlines detailed testing and repair procedures the starter.
The contact is in the solenoid, you changed that, so contact should be fine. Should, not must
Check the voltage between battery minus and the plus contact (orange arrow) when starting. If this is good check voltage between battery minus and behind contact (green arrow).
If voltage is good in both cases the brushes are behind the cover (blue arrow).
Do you have a work shop manual? This outlines detailed testing and repair procedures the starter.
That is the inside of the starter. In cannot see any adjustment on the solenoid. Nuts for cables tightened correctly?
