WoodMaxx WM-8H, think I need one.....

[flyidaho]

I first perused the several pages here on the subject, and the WoodMaxx keeps popping up as the best. Not the cheapest, but it seems like the type of implement that paying more up front for will result in greater satisfaction long term. I have a newer L3301, 60 hours on it now is all.

My perceived need for it, is for creating a mountain bike/hiking trail through a 1/4 mile of my sloping ground, solid with brush and trees currently, on my 40 acres, (147' fall in 1/4 mile, reason I know that off hand is because I already have a hydro electric grid tied generator onsite) of quaking aspen and piss elms, soft woods, nothing hard. Last spring I trailblazed a very narrow trail by hand (using a hand brush clipper and a battery powered chain saw) the entire 1/4 mile (actually a fair bit longer because it has a lot of curves) and while it is barely adequate for the bike, it bothered me to just chuck the cleared off brush and trees to the side. Plus it made the trail look a bit trashy, I'd like to get rid of the dead fall. Packing them out by hand was not practical. At first I thought it'd be real handy if the trail was widened enough for my beater ATV/weed sprayer, but now I'm thinking, screw it, go big or go home, use the 'bota and once the trail is wide enough for it, I would then be able to haul out (using the FEL) the usable for firewood debris, and really buff out the trail. I can see bushwacking my way in, using the chain saw as I go, and then chipping the results into a couple 55 gallon drums, and then spreading the chips to help cover up the embedded rocks, so killing two birds. Being able to fully access a sizeable portion (and the only part with a stream running through it) of my property, now pretty much inaccessable, seems like a good excuse to buy this piece of equipment, especially as I can call it a needed bit of farm equipment/write it off.

So, unless someone has other suggestions, it's looking like a WM-8H for me, the cost is about what I'd expect, at least for something I won't wear out in the first year, or get pissed off everytime I use it because I initially cheaped out! This idea has popped into my head SINCE making this post http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35670, note the part "gotta quit buying tractor implements"!

 

[flyidaho]

I'd also be interested in any opinions on how my L3301 would handle the 990 lb weight. I have fluid filled rear tires, and a FEL.

 

[msmcknight]

I received my WM-8H a couple of months ago and let me put it to you this way... you want that chipper... you need that chipper!

I have a B2601 which is at the low-end of what it takes to drive the chipper, but let me tell you... I haven't found anything yet that thing wouldn't eat. And I'm only pushing about 19hp at the PTO. A stronger tractor would eat more and eat it faster.

I have been impressed with the woodmaxx every single time I have used it. I think I have about 11 hours on it so far.

There are a couple areas where it could be improved...
1) Sometimes it has trouble pulling in very small limbs... ie. less than 3/4". I usually just feed the little stuff with something bigger, or cram lots of little stuff in at once so the infeed roller can grab it.

2) When feeding a large (5-7") tree trunk that has knots and limbs on it, as the infeed roller moves across those "humps", it causes the feed-assist bar to bounce up and down. The clearance between the feed-assist bar and the infeed-roller safety stop bar is very, very tight. Sometimes this bouncing causes the assist bar to hit the safety bar which results in the infeed control being forced into the stop or reverse position. It's really more of an aggravation because I'll throw an entire tree into this thing and walk away... every now and then I turn around to find that it didn't feed or the machine spit it back out. Usually I just have to reengage the infeed lever and it starts chewing again.

The chipper is heavy. Very heavy. It tacks out at 900lbs. On my little B2601, that would be iffy without the FEL attached. Your L-series is heavier so that might not be an issue for you, but still something to keep in mind.

Chipping wood is loud. The WM-8H isn't really that loud when running, but when it starts to chip wood, it gets very loud. After my first use, I went to the store and got some earmuffs. I would highly recommend you do the same.

The chipper will be delivered via freight truck. If you're going to unload the chipper from the truck using your FEL forks, make sure you have ballast in the rear. The shipping weight is 950lbs and thats a big lift at semi-trailer height.

If you cant tell by now, I have been completely thrilled with this chipper and would absolutely recommend it.

-Michael

 

[flyidaho]

Thanks for that Michael. Yeah, the ones I've seen are very noisy, and yes I've seen the movie Fargo! I already have hear muffs though, good ones too. One thing I'm not crystal clear on: does that discharge chute allow you to aim the chips coming out? Like into a 55 gallon drum with the top cut out? I have a real need for the end product, the chips, and it sure would be a time saver to just shoot them right into a drum.

 

[msmcknight]

Yes. The entire output chute rotates 360 degrees. It also has a deflector at the exit port that you can adjust up and down so you can direct the chips as you see fit.

 

[sdk1968]

nothing wrong with that woodmaxx at all. they have plenty of satisfied customers & you have plenty of tractor for it.

YES you need a wood chipper. using mine at least once a week right now when the weather permits.

ive cut over a mile of trail x 5' wide on my little place all up & down... wood chipper is the schizzle!

gonna tell you to go look at this thread before you buy, just so you do have alternatives: http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32584


love mine & as another poster stated it was good on a B2601... but its even better on a bigger tractor. the final input is 5x7 & it will eat anything you put in it ... EXCEPT LEAVES!! leaves clog up a chipper if they are wet. avoid that!

 

[flyidaho]

I walked a bit of the area today, still a lot of snow up here..... and I got a wake up call. Before I could get the tractor in there, I will need to do some fairly major earth moving. I of course know the area already, but never looked at it before with an eye to getting the tractor in there. i just put the single track in last year. Too steep, with a side slope in many places, I wouldn't drive the tractor as is in there, much less with 990 lbs hanging off the rear end. Though it does look like the CG of the added weight would be fairly low? Riding a fat tired ebike on it is one thing (and not easy, at all), but with over 15 years of previous mountain side Kubota experience under my belt (been on lots of hill sides and know most of the tricks, my favorite being using the backhoe on my earlier tractor to act as a counter weight, extended out and swung over the uphill side), but I really don't want to roll this new one, or get it stuck.

I have a farmer neighbor who's run heavy equipment for, pick a number.... many, many decades, who has a little CAT mini excavator he bought brand new a few years back. He's in his 80's now..... but still sharp as a tack. As of now, I am thinking what is needed is a experienced operator, with the right tool, that being the mini ex. He could knock down the high sides of the slopes, in the areas where I'd be in danger of rolling it (steep, more or less straight up and down, isn't the problem, it's steep AND a side slope, a double fall line, that makes me pucker up), and then I could fine tune things with the scraper blade, the box blade, and the FEL. I would think a full day of his time would knock down the most dangerous parts, I'll get him up here and have him eyeball it and see what he thinks.

I may, depending on his availability, put the scraper blade on, turn it around "backwards", put it on a 45 with a tilt, and back down the first scary looking part, and see if I can cut in enough of a angle, take away enough of the high side while putting it on the low side, to make it around the first bad side slope. No rocks on the upper part, where the side slope issue is worst, but tree roots will complicate things. At some point, a very small tracked dozer may be the way to go, but there are none that I know of in my area. My farming neighbor has a full sized one, but it's too big, it'd ruin the ambience. I keep thinking how tore it it would look, but then I think that once roughed in by some serious equipment, I could immediately (and fairly safely) get in there with the 'bota and fine tune things and pretty it up. I want a mountain bike trail, not a road, is the point! The Forest Service in this area has exactly what I need, a very small but powerful tracked dozer, I've seen it in action and it'd have no problem, but I'm pretty sure I can't borrow or rent it, I'll check back in as the project progresses.

 

[flyidaho]

I decided to take on the project, 28 degree slopes and all. I like a challenge, and now I have one?! Chipper ordered, so now I HAVE to do it. Now to round up a mini excavator for phase one, getting it roughed in enough to be able to drive the tractor on it. I'm going to start chain sawing as I wait, and now throwing the limbs etc. to the side won't bother me, their day is coming......plus I keep thinking up new places and people who can use the chips, like my neighbor up above me 1/4 mile, who also has a trail system (smaller then mine will be though, ha ha) around the same creek, with lots of deadfall too. Even better, this morning while the dog was taking me for a walk, I noticed a few trees (dead ones) that had blown over in the 60+ mph gusts we had a couple days ago, that made my day.

 

[Ben S]

Hello,

You made a good choice, i run the WM-8M (the non hydtaulic version) on a B2620 and it performs like a champ!,
you wont regret it.

Have fun.