What do you use on your GDI engines

SidecarFlip

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Curious more than anything. We have 2 GDI engines (Gasoline Direct Injection) so the intake tracts are basically dry, no gasoline in them to clean the intake valves (on one) and a pilot injector on the other. I use Seafoam GDI top end engine cleaner injected directly into the intake air stream post MAF. to clean the intake valves and keep the deposits under control. Following the instructions afterwards both engines blow a huge amount of smoke and both will throw a check engine (o2 sensor) error that I clear with my scan tool afterwards.

Both engines are fairly high mileage (over 60K) and both engines run like tops, use no oil and get excellent fuel mileage so I must be doing something right. I use it every oil change (every 6K miles).

I see that CRC now has one out as well so what is better, Seafoam or CRC and/or do you use either or none at all. Lots of You Tube vids of people having to clean their intake valves and chambers with walnut shell blasting to remove the deposits, something I don't want to do if I can avoid it.

I also use it on my non GDI engines (throttle body) aspirated engines. Not for diesels at all, just gasoline motors.,

Opinions positive or negative would be appreciated. Not cheap at 8 bucks a can either.
 

dirtydeed

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It would seem like a lot of the gunk that is ingested thru the intake runners could be eliminated by simply installing a catch can in the PCV system. Maybe give one a try and see how much gunk you collect. I had intended on doing one on my truck but ford went to both DI port injection in my model year.
 

dlsmith

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Before I would use something like that, I would run a fiberoptic scope into the ports to see if they actually need cleaning.
Besides, just how many deposits (assuming there are any) could drizzling that mouse milk into the ports actually remove. Just about none I would bet.

There are a lot of products made to treat problems that don't exist.
 
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SidecarFlip

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Like I said, 60K miles and every 6K I do it and all seems good. Thought about a catch can but the only way to access the the PCV valve to install one is remove the intake manifold, something I prefer not doing. I could look inside, have a bore scope and I may do just that next oil change. What I'm really curious about is if anyone else uses the Seafoam or CRC and if they do, do they see positive results.
 

mikester

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I take my vehicles to the local psychic for readings, followed by Tarot cards, then an energy balance with the Reike healer and I use my power crystals.

It really works because all my cars tend to drive for at least 10 years without engine problems.

Your liquid additives are magic foo foo. Show me a car manual where the manufacturer recommends using additives.
 
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mudog88

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Check out Project Farm on YouTube. He's done many videos using Briggs and Stratton engines to show real-world results of using these products. I use Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil for any top-end cleanings now.

It really comes down to personal opinion. I've always run additives in my carb'd and Port-injection engines, and they've always treated me well. I tend to keep vehicles much longer than most. If you're the type who only drives it a few years before the next new vehicle, don't bother with it. If you're similar to me and keep vehicles until they just give up, it's worth it in the long-run. I'm currently on a 2010 Subaru Legacy with nearly 218k on the clock. We bought it out of a fleet with 91k on it.
 
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Dave_eng

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This is a question and not an opinion.

Why are GDI engine intake valves, manifolds any different than a diesels?

Both do not have fuel spraying unto the intake valve, both do use the intake manifold for crankcase vent.

Dave
 

SidecarFlip

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This is a question and not an opinion.

Why are GDI engine intake valves, manifolds any different than a diesels?

Both do not have fuel spraying unto the intake valve, both do use the intake manifold for crankcase vent.

Dave
Mine don't (tractors) but maybe the new ones do, I have no clue. GDI engines have dry intakes, all I know. I do know the crankcase blowby is in there and I believe that is what cruds up the intakes. I probably don't have a lot, I change my oil every 6K miles like clockwork, so it hardly gets dirty.

My only experience with Diesel EGR is with Detroit 60 series diesels and the intake runners on the 60's carbon up so bad, it fouls the sensors. The look like a carbon cave inside, very nasty. I would imagine the valves and valve chambers also get carboned up.
 

SidecarFlip

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I take my vehicles to the local psychic for readings, followed by Tarot cards, then an energy balance with the Reike healer and I use my power crystals.

It really works because all my cars tend to drive for at least 10 years without engine problems.

Your liquid additives are magic foo foo. Show me a car manual where the manufacturer recommends using additives.
None do that I've ever seen so that it kind of moot anyway and not what I asked . I asked 'what do you use and is Seafoam a viable cleaner.

Don't know if it's foo foo or not and not what I asked.

Automakers want you to buy a new vehicle when your existing one starts to have issues. They exist on selling NEW vehicles but some of us (including me) don't get a new one every couple years so as they age, we address issues accordingly. I run mine until that basically fall apart and then I buy a USED one to replace the defunct one. I don't do new car payments, I fix and maintain the old ones. Kind of like my tractors.

I don't take my vehicles to a tarrot card reader, I have the tarrot deck myself, called a scan tool. My scan tool plugs into the OBD port and tells me what components failed or are failing. Something that Kubota should do with their new electronic engines. That OBD port is nice. Too bad Kubota don't use one. Instead they use a proprietary port access that only accepts the Kubota Diagmaster tool and you cannot buy one. Very convenient for them (because it marries you to a dealer for anything pertaining to the electronic controls). Not so much for you because you get to get your wallet out.

I asked a simple question, does Seafoam work as a top end engine cleaner and was looking for others experience. Nothing more.

Guess I'll have to get out the borescope and have a look see myself. I was trying to avoid that in as much as it requires me disassembling the intake tract to the manifold to look.
 

mudog88

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None do that I've ever seen so that it kind of moot anyway and not what I asked . I asked 'what do you use and is Seafoam a viable cleaner.

Don't know if it's foo foo or not and not what I asked.

Automakers want you to buy a new vehicle when your existing one starts to have issues. They exist on selling NEW vehicles but some of us (including me) don't get a new one every couple years so as they age, we address issues accordingly. I run mine until that basically fall apart and then I buy a USED one to replace the defunct one. I don't do new car payments, I fix and maintain the old ones. Kind of like my tractors.

I don't take my vehicles to a tarrot card reader, I have the tarrot deck myself, called a scan tool. My scan tool plugs into the OBD port and tells me what components failed or are failing. Something that Kubota should do with their new electronic engines. That OBD port is nice. Too bad Kubota don't use one. Instead they use a proprietary port access that only accepts the Kubota Diagmaster tool and you cannot buy one. Very convenient for them (because it marries you to a dealer for anything pertaining to the electronic controls). Not so much for you because you get to get your wallet out.

I asked a simple question, does Seafoam work as a top end engine cleaner and was looking for others experience. Nothing more.

Guess I'll have to get out the borescope and have a look see myself. I was trying to avoid that in as much as it requires me disassembling the intake tract to the manifold to look.
To answer your question simply; Yes, Seafoam works to keep the top end clean. Best if done on a consistent basis, like just before an oil change. Seafoam has been around for a long while, and it works some pretty impressive buildup loose. There will always be naysayers, but I've seen the evidence.

Direct inject GASOLINE engines will need the intake method.
Port inject GASOLINE engines don't really need the intake method as the fuel gets injected just before the intake valve, therefore keeping the valves relatively clean. I'll run Seafoam in the fuel on these vehicles.
Diesel engines I just run it in the fuel. For anybody reading this, just please don't dump Seafoam down the intake. Way too high of a chance for serious damage due to the high compression.
 

SidecarFlip

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Thank you. Nice to know I'm not the only user. What I'd also like to know is, does the CRC (foo-foo) do the same thing as the Seafoam? I will say that seafoam in bulk (I buy it by the gallon jug for adding to the fuel too), is a bit different than the spray in stuff in the can. At least if 'feels' different.

It is kind of a PITA to use too, inserting the straw in front of the throttle body but behind the MAF sensor can be problematic on some engines, one of mine included.
 

lugbolt

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local guy makes a mint off of "decarb" on DI engines

so I have been doing some side work too, when I have time (RARE) now that I ain't doing kubota, I'm doing kubota after work (among other things). Guy had a 2011 Mustang with DI and bought it to me to do a decarb. I ran my scope down the intake and at 134,000 miles it was as clean as could be. Brownish colored, but it wasnt carbon'd up like 'everyone' says it should have been. Customer said don't worry about it then, and I did the oil change and sent him on down the road. Bone stock. I reckon different engines behave differently?

All the kubota's I've been into/around haven't been a problem neither is my old 7.3--it looks almost new inside of the intake manifolds, with 230,000 miles on the clock.

seen plenty of guys just dump stuff in the intake and then wonder why they have problems. Had a mower with a D722 on it show up while I did kubota work, wouldn't run. Low compression. Found 3 bent rods, center one bent worse than the outer two. Quizzed the customer and he said he was doing a decarb on it, sprayed seafoam down the intake and then started (or attempted to start) it--no bueno. Damage done. $1200 later she was running perfect. 3 new rods 3 new pistons, gaskets, seals, fluids. My dad even...he was supposedly doing a decarb on his fusion and the straw came off of the can and was pulled into the engine. Far as he knows, it's still in there. I don't know what he was using, all I know is that it was a can of stuff that had a straw on it like wd40 can and it came off.
 
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