Hello all, brand new to this group and almost as new to ranch/ farming. Ranch has a 69/70, Kubota B6000, was running pretty good tilling, ran out of fuel and now won’t start, no smoke out of the exhaust. Any help would be great. Thank you all
Was running pretty good
- Thread starter Greenhorn 71
- Start date
You need to bleed the system of air if you run a tractor that old out of fuel. Some newer models self bleed, but probably not yours.
I have read you should loosen the nuts on the fuel lines at the injectors, NOT at the pump.
Someone else that is more familiar with the procedure will chime in I am sure. Do not worry. Probably a simple solution...
Captain13
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M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Henro is correct, loosen the lines at the injectors and don’t put your hands around the loose fuel line nuts while cranking the engine. The fuel is under high pressure at that point. I’m not familiar with the B6000 as to whether or not it has a manual lift pump to bring fuel to the pump from the tank. If it has a button or lever, pump it up until you feel pressure. that way you are sure to have fuel at the pump input.
According to the Operator's Manual, this is the procedure:
You can download the manuals at www.kubotabooks.com.
You can download the manuals at www.kubotabooks.com.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Along with cracking the lines at the injectors, set throttle to high, make sure the stop lever/ linkage is not engaged, and if your model is equipped with the Compression release engage that.
Do not run the starter for too long at a time as it will over heat, crank till no bubble appear in the expelled fuel.
Do not run the starter for too long at a time as it will over heat, crank till no bubble appear in the expelled fuel.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Charge battery fully if you can before starting.
Use the air bleed procedure noted above first.
Loosen nuts on injectors as already stated above.
Use decompression lever to let engine spin easily.
Tighten all nuts back up (check them all again)
If it starts and runs rough, it may clear up on its own so let it try for a little while.
And keep trying for longer than you expect it to take if it does not start.
If it starts but does not run well you can try loosening one injector at a time, if it runs worse tighten that one back up and move on to the next. If it doesn’t change the way it runs then carefully loosen that injector line (keep hands away and wear safety glasses and gloves) to let it push out air. Tighten nut after a bit of time.
And as mentioned let starter rest for a good while between cranks to let it cool. If it is smoking then you are cranking too long and not waiting long enough.
Use the air bleed procedure noted above first.
Loosen nuts on injectors as already stated above.
Use decompression lever to let engine spin easily.
Tighten all nuts back up (check them all again)
If it starts and runs rough, it may clear up on its own so let it try for a little while.
And keep trying for longer than you expect it to take if it does not start.
If it starts but does not run well you can try loosening one injector at a time, if it runs worse tighten that one back up and move on to the next. If it doesn’t change the way it runs then carefully loosen that injector line (keep hands away and wear safety glasses and gloves) to let it push out air. Tighten nut after a bit of time.
And as mentioned let starter rest for a good while between cranks to let it cool. If it is smoking then you are cranking too long and not waiting long enough.
I have run my B6000 dry twice. Once about 7 years ago. I swore I'd NEVER do that again.
Then came last night. Getting ready for the upcoming snow storm I figured I'd get the dinosaur running and checked out. Looked in the tank, saw it was 'full enough' and started it up. Drove down the the gas station to get a 5 gallon of 4 gl diesel and one of Kero to make winter blend so it doesn't gel up.
Got back just in time to hear it sputter out.
Reviewing a couple of other posts on OTT one comment made was: when you run dry, refill the tank, disconnect the fuel hose on top of the injection pump, stick it into the fuel tank and turn the key on. The lift pump will purge all the air out of the lines. Then turn key off, hold finger over end of the hose, quickly shove it back on and clamp tight. Then crack the bleeder (one at a time) and it will start.
This made me think. I know what a lift pump sounds like. I know where it is. It just NEVER occurred to me that MY lift pump was dead. How could my B6000 run without one? A quick trip to auto parts store and about 30 minutes labor and viola'. Primed, started right up!
Turns out it has been running just fine without one. Its just the priming that is difficult without one!
After getting the tractor running I experimented. Yes indeed the tractor runs just fine with NO lift pump. It just sucks fuel through the lift pump. But it has more acceleration and steadier power with the pump on.
So, If you have a B6000 make sure your lift pump is operating as it should. It should chatter when the key is on.
Then came last night. Getting ready for the upcoming snow storm I figured I'd get the dinosaur running and checked out. Looked in the tank, saw it was 'full enough' and started it up. Drove down the the gas station to get a 5 gallon of 4 gl diesel and one of Kero to make winter blend so it doesn't gel up.
Got back just in time to hear it sputter out.
Reviewing a couple of other posts on OTT one comment made was: when you run dry, refill the tank, disconnect the fuel hose on top of the injection pump, stick it into the fuel tank and turn the key on. The lift pump will purge all the air out of the lines. Then turn key off, hold finger over end of the hose, quickly shove it back on and clamp tight. Then crack the bleeder (one at a time) and it will start.
This made me think. I know what a lift pump sounds like. I know where it is. It just NEVER occurred to me that MY lift pump was dead. How could my B6000 run without one? A quick trip to auto parts store and about 30 minutes labor and viola'. Primed, started right up!
Turns out it has been running just fine without one. Its just the priming that is difficult without one!
After getting the tractor running I experimented. Yes indeed the tractor runs just fine with NO lift pump. It just sucks fuel through the lift pump. But it has more acceleration and steadier power with the pump on.
So, If you have a B6000 make sure your lift pump is operating as it should. It should chatter when the key is on.
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