Tree measurement

North Idaho Wolfman

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How do you measure the size of your trees?

I have read a bunch of post and some of the tree sizes stated sound a little off.

How do measure around the tree or across it?
And when you do measure it how do you state the size?
 

whirly

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Tree Measurements are always the Diameter (across) not the Circumference (around). It is usually stated in inches unless it's REALLY BIG then you can state it in feet.
 
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Kubota Newbie

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Trees or standing timber are measured in inches of diameter at DBH (diameter breast height). A rule of thumb (for Midwest hardwood timber) is that there is 2 inches of taper in every 16 foot log. Thus a 12 inch DBH standing tree would have only 1 potentially marketable log (barring other defects) since 10 inches is normally the bottom end for scaling market timber. You can use a timber scale stick that uses sight lines at about arms length to determine diameter, or, measure around the tree at breast height with a tape measure (inches) and divide the circumference by 3.1417. There are specialty diameter tapes available that have the conversion built into the tape markings and a handy little hook on the end that makes it easier to measure around the tree.
Logs on the ground are normally scaled in inches measured straight across the bottom end of the log. For marketing purposes diameter and number of logs (down to the half log for Midwest timber) are converted to board feet using one of a couple accepted scales.
 

sawmill

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How do you measure the size of your trees?

I have read a bunch of post and some of the tree sizes stated sound a little off.

How do measure around the tree or across it?
And when you do measure it how do you state the size?
Measure around the tree at chest high and divide by 3.14. That will give you the diameter. If your thinking of saw logs, there are some "small log mills" in our area that will take logs down to a 4 1/2" top (inside the bark). If your bucking to length, add 6" to the length for trim loss. Below is a Scibner Scale for average taper in our area.

Midpoint Taper Determination for Multi-segment Butt Logs

1. NORTH IDAHO AREA (north of the Salmon River, and including the northeastern Washington area bounded by the Snake River on the south, to the Columbia River, north to the Okanogan River, north to Canada) --- midpoint taper shall be a standard taper as follows:

Larch & Lodgepole Pine

Cedar

All other species

Shall be 2-inches per segment.

Allow 1-inch taper on pieces with an odd top diameter; allow 2-inch taper on pieces with an even top diameter (Odd-Even Rule).

Take two measurements, small end and 16’ up from the butt. The diameter at the 16’ measurement point shall be determined by actual measure. Apply calculated taper distribution to determine scaling diameter of the second segment.

Take two measurements, small end and top of the second segment up from the butt. The top diameter of the second segment shall be determined by actual measure. Apply calculated taper distribution to top segment(s) and standard taper rule for the appropriate species to bottom segment.
 

RCW

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Trees or standing timber are measured in inches of diameter at DBH (diameter breast height).
Yeah, Wolfman these guys have it.

DBH is measured at ~ 4.5 feet from the ground. If the tree is on a slope, measure from the uphill side. For me, at 6'4", it's at the bottom of my breastbone.

Like Newbie and sawmill said, there are tables that predict Board feet or cords per tree (pulp or firewood). They vary by different calculations, or "Rules," one of which is saw kerf at the ultimate sawmill. Common are Doyle, Scribner and International 1/4" scales, but vary by area. They will often predict "Form Class," which is the taper typical for Western softwoods, Northern hardwoods, etc.

Around here, marketable hardwood is 10" at the small end. We don't buy/sell pulp much anymore here - that was 3" small end. If making a tally of trees/board feet, you can often predict % of cull too, to get a better/closer estimate.

You can make a D-tape from rope or make calipers. I make one of rope every few years - because I always lose the one I made before......:eek: Since I don't cruise timber often, never made sense to buy a D-tape, but they're not that expensive. Usually, someone just wants me to look at their woodlot for a possible timber cut - so I don't need to real exact. Rope works fine.

Since circumference = Pi*Diameter, a mark on your rope at 50.24" will equal 16" DBH, etc. Typically go even DBH's, 24" class, 26" class, etc.

If you make calipers, you would take couple measurements on each tree, and average. There's also a Biltmore (?, is that right guys?) stick, which is a one-handed way to do it.

They also use a Prism, which is cool, but damned if I remember how to use one. It's more for cruising stands for a general idea of stocking in total.

I looked for my last D-rope - can't find it......:eek:
 
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RCW

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I found one!! I use something heavier on the end. Helps toss it around the tree for bigger ones. Tape strips mark zero and DBH. Looks like 16, 18, and 20 there.

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RCW

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My real fancy end part. Just gives you something to catch.



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