Tips removing lower pin on ?boom cylinder?, BH77

[Perfikt]

Hello,

I'm having troubles getting out the lower pin (with the grease fitting) on a BH77 backhoe. I'm curious if it has to be pressed out in a specific direction? I currently have a puller applying pressure, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.

Any advice is appreciated, trying to get new seals into the cylinder. Thanks!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Hello,

I'm having troubles getting out the lower pin (with the grease fitting) on a BH77 backhoe. I'm curious if it has to be pressed out in a specific direction? I currently have a puller applying pressure, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.

View attachment 46378

View attachment 46379

View attachment 46380

Any advice is appreciated, trying to get new seals into the cylinder. Thanks!

Is the hoe on or off the tractor? The hoses need to be connected to the tractor to release all pressure off the cylinder by moving the boom control both ways several times with the tractor off. (but you probably knew this)
Personally, I'm a hammer mechanic. You can assist the puller by tightening it up good and then giving it a sharp blow with your shop hammer. Repeat as necessary. The pin should come out either way.

 

[BigG]

Looking at the parts diagrams there is nothing holding in place. PB Blaster around the pin. Perhaps removing the oil supply lines to the cylinder to allow you to move the cylinder a little one way or the other. I am thinking there might be some binding of the ram end causing the pin to hang up. Sort of like when you try to put an implement on the 3 point and the lift arm ball will not slide over the pin.

 

[Perfikt]

Is the hoe on or off the tractor? The hoses need to be connected to the tractor to release all pressure off the cylinder by moving the boom control both ways several times with the tractor off. (but you probably knew this)
Personally, I'm a hammer mechanic. You can assist the puller by tightening it up good and then giving it a sharp blow with your shop hammer. Repeat as necessary. The pin should come out either way.

The hoe is off the tractor, and the top of the cylinder is already free. That pin came out no problem, hence the hesitance on this one. I've cinched the puller and liberally applied lube, so I'll just leave it overnight and try brute force and ignorance again in the morning. Thanks for the reply.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Good luck. If that pin absolutely won't give, you could slide the cylinder off and leave the rod attached. But that would be easier with the boom laid out horizontally.

 

[Dave_eng]

I expect the BH99 and the BH77 would be very similar in detail

From looking at a BH99 parts book on Kubotabooks.com ( which is much clearer than the illustrations on Messicks), I believe there is a bolt going through the pin to keep it in place. What would be confusing is that the bolt is in the area between the boom and the bracket it attaches to not on the outside of the bracket where it would be very visible.

The bolt is #070 and it goes through pin#060 which is the one you are trying to remove.

The pin is riding on bushings and in that design there always will be some design featuree to keep the pin from rotating. In this case it is Bolt #070. Sometimes an end of the pin has flats which fir into corresponding slots.

Be careful applying heavy force with the bolt still in place as you will bend bolt #060 and make it very hard to remove

Dave

 

[Perfikt]

I expect the BH99 and the BH77 would be very similar in detail

From looking at a BH99 parts book on Kubotabooks.com ( which is much clearer than the illustrations on Messicks), I believe there is a bolt going through the pin to keep it in place. What would be confusing is that the bolt is in the area between the boom and the bracket it attaches to not on the outside of the bracket where it would be very visible.

The bolt is #070 and it goes through pin#060 which is the one you are trying to remove.

View attachment 46381

The pin is riding on bushings and in that design there always will be some design featuree to keep the pin from rotating. In this case it is Bolt #070. Sometimes an end of the pin has flats which fir into corresponding slots.

Be careful applying heavy force with the bolt still in place as you will bend bolt #060 and make it very hard to remove

Dave

Hey, thanks for the response. Mine is similar, but the bolt is on the outside and was the first thing removed. The hole is visible in the third picture I posted. My issue is simply in getting the pin (#060 in your picture) removed from the whole unit to remove the cylinder.

 

[Dave_eng]

Hey, thanks for the response. Mine is similar, but the bolt is on the outside and was the first thing removed. The hole is visible in the third picture I posted. My issue is simply in getting the pin (#060 in your picture) removed from the whole unit to remove the cylinder.

On closer inspection I am wrong on two counts. I think the pin you are trying to remove is #170 on my illustration which secures the boom cylinder not the boom itself.

If you use a ratchet strap to take some of the boom cylinder weight off the pin and then trying and remove the pin. Perhaps by removing the grease nipple and, with something protecting the grease nipple threads, push the pin in the opposite direction.

It is hard to tell what sort of part surrounds the grease nipple but perhaps the pin can only come out one way and the way you are trying is the wrong one. Can you pop the part surrounding the grease nipple off so you can see the end of the pin?

Will the end of the cylinder slide just a tiny bit on the pin to show you that is not where it is seized?

Good luck and sorry for not looking closely enough at your photos in the first place.

Dave

 

[Perfikt]

On closer inspection I am wrong on two counts. I think the pin you are trying to remove is #170 on my illustration which secures the boom cylinder not the boom itself.

If you use a ratchet strap to take some of the boom cylinder weight off the pin and then trying and remove the pin. Perhaps by removing the grease nipple and, with something protecting the grease nipple threads, push the pin in the opposite direction.

It is hard to tell what sort of part surrounds the grease nipple but perhaps the pin can only come out one way and the way you are trying is the wrong one. Can you pop the part surrounding the grease nipple off so you can see the end of the pin?

Will the end of the cylinder slide just a tiny bit on the pin to show you that is not where it is seized?

Good luck and sorry for not looking closely enough at your photos in the first place.

Dave

Hey, no worries. Technically, yes, it is more the 170, but they are both pins with grease nipple ends so potato, potato.

The rod end will move on the pin, ever so slightly but there is a wiggle, so I'm fairly confident it's not bound there. There's also next to no weight on the pin from the cylinder side.

I'm thinking my next course of action will be to remove the grease fitting and slide something around where it was seated (probably a well fitting socket) and try pressing it in the opposite direction. This is of course assuming it hasn't moved come morning time.

Will update with results, whether it moves or I have to re-configure my system.

Thanks again!

Edit: Upon re-reading your post, I saw you asked about removing something around the nipple. The raised part around the nipple is the end of the pin, the nipple is inset within the pin. Just for clarification.

 

[RCW]

In case you haven't done this, I would give the grease fitting a good shot of grease before removing it.

Might get messy, but every little bit helps if the pin is seized in there.....

 

[lugbolt]

very common

they get stuck

I use an air hammer. Sometimes that doesn't work. Then out comes the sledge. Sometimes that doesn't work. Then comes the blue tipped wrench. It's hard for it to be seized if it's liquid. Most of the time the air hammer works.

They get stuck due to lack of proper and frequent lubrication (every 10 hours)-usually.

 

[Perfikt]

very common

they get stuck

I use an air hammer. Sometimes that doesn't work. Then out comes the sledge. Sometimes that doesn't work. Then comes the blue tipped wrench. It's hard for it to be seized if it's liquid. Most of the time the air hammer works.

They get stuck due to lack of proper and frequent lubrication (every 10 hours)-usually.

Air hammer was the next line we were going to take. I'd like to avoid the hot wrench if possible, we just picked up the tractor and I'd hate to ruin the paint..

The previous owner did say to grease it every 10 hours, and the rod end pivots fine on the pin so I imagine it has been decently lubricated to this point.

It just seemed odd that the others came out fine but this one will not budge.

 

[dvcochran]

So the cylinder clevis will move on the pin? I see the flush fit grease zerk on one side so it would be hard driving from that side. Have you sprayed WD40 (or similar) liberally and let it set for a while? Could the pin be slightly bent and bound up? Do you have bushings for your puller? If so I would make good pressure with on the puller/ bushing and give it a really good hit with a hammer. If that does not work I agree with the air chisel as next course of action.
A hot wrench is not the worst thing in the world and may save you a lot of grief. They will sell you all the orange paint you need.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Air hammer was the next line we were going to take. I'd like to avoid the hot wrench if possible, we just picked up the tractor and I'd hate to ruin the paint..

The previous owner did say to grease it every 10 hours, and the rod end pivots fine on the pin so I imagine it has been decently lubricated to this point.

It just seemed odd that the others came out fine but this one will not budge.

Heat is your friend, Just heat up the yoke on the cylinder P/N 160 most likely seized onto P/N 170, then air hammer away.

Touch up paint during the reseal job!

 

[RCW]

Lugbolt and Tom have great advice I wasn’t thinking of...air hammers do wonders!

 

[Perfikt]

Update, pin is out. Air hammer did nothing, hot wrench ended up being the solution.

Paint is cheap, right?!

Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

[NHSleddog]

Update, pin is out. Air hammer did nothing, hot wrench ended up being the solution.

Paint is cheap, right?!

Thanks for all the suggestions!

It's an escalation thing.

Good that you got it out.

 

[Henro]

Update, pin is out. Air hammer did nothing, hot wrench ended up being the solution.

Paint is cheap, right?!

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Curious.

Did you just heat things a bit until the pin came loose?

Lugbolt mentioned metal in the liquid state. Cannot imagine my amateur hands burning out a pin without a lot of collateral damage, to say the least.

 

[Perfikt]

Curious.

Did you just heat things a bit until the pin came loose?

Lugbolt mentioned metal in the liquid state. Cannot imagine my amateur hands burning out a pin without a lot of collateral damage, to say the least.

Not to a liquid, no.

My dad got back to it before I did, and decided his best course of action would be to try drilling out the pin. That just created a pin with a rather large hole down the middle of it.

However, once it was already an open tube instead of a pin, heating it a little was easy and then it was just a matter of driving it out. Heat + BFI (brute force and ignorance) turned out to be the winning combination.