This will haul out the wood

[Shortleg]

This was inspired from one I saw a year ago or so, it was yellow.
Mine is similar but has some differences.

The yellow one had slots for chain but that didn't work for me as I have tongs and needed somewhere to hook them up. Also wanted to beef up the blade a bit.

Yes I've read about pulling from the 3pt a lot but, as I see It if the log is off the ground at the pulled end and you go SLOW and EASY it should work fine. I've done this for 8 years with another rig but this is the thought of 2 years of study and 1 year of scrap hording.

Let me know the GOOD BAD THE UGLY!!!!!

P.S. Needs cleaned up and painted but that will have to wait till spring. Last pic is of the one I had been using.

 

[nsmitchell]

You have a great idea there. I have been thinking about building something similar to haul whole logs out to the trailer. What were the issues with the one you are using now. It seems robust enough. I should think that a 20' limbed log would not have much more drag than a 2 bottom plow or 6' cultivator. What are the issues with the 3 pth?

 

[Shortleg]

You have a great idea there. I have been thinking about building something similar to haul whole logs out to the trailer. What were the issues with the one you are using now. It seems robust enough. I should think that a 20' limbed log would not have much more drag than a 2 bottom plow or 6' cultivator. What are the issues with the 3 pth?

Nothing was really wrong with the old one just got a new larger tractor last spring and wanted to build one that was beefier.

The 3pt issue some say is that if the log gets caught on something it can flip your tractor over quickly as it raises your pulling center of gravity.

 

[stuart]

Unless I had a very large heavy tractor I would not want to be using that kind of a rig for pulling. Yes, with the front end of the logs a bit in the air the risk of catching on something unmovable is small, but it is there.

I was taught that you ALWAYS have the drag load attached below the rear axle. A standard plow is set up this way, with none or very little of the load taken by the top link.

I had a friend who thought he could just move something quickly by hooking up the chain to the top link bracket. The load did not move, and the rear tires kept on moving forward, so the front end of the tractor started climbing. The clutch did not disengage fast enough, so next thing the front tires were facing the sky. He was fast enough to get off before it turned right over, and lucky to be alive as he did not have a ROPS.

I would rather use the lift of the 3-point to put the front end of the logs on a skid plate and pull them from a low attachment point.

 

[gktilton]

Quick note about ROPS. On MOST tractors if the front tires are coming up for a full flip over the ROPS will not support the full weight. They are designed to stop a side rollover, for front to back protection you would need a cage.

All my log skidding is behind me, it was all done with tractors without ROPS and pulled from the 3PT bar with the logs lifted. Never had an issue, but was damn careful.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Take it from an old tractor puller and heed Stuarts advice. That top chain hook is mighty high and far enough behind the rear axle to easily cause a flip-over if you hook onto a big log or get caught on something. Your operators manual probably advises against hooking a load in that manner, and with good reason.
I know everybody thinks their Kubota is good for everything, but tractors aren't really made for skidding logs out of a woods. There's a reason log skidders look like they've had the crap beat out of them all the time.

 

[SoCal Kubota]

You should lift with the loader. I know a little big for a BX. However it did move one. I relay cut them in fourths to move to the fire wood pile.

 

[DsBota]

That's a big tree!

 

[RWL]

Just a newbie to this forum, and also to Orange tractors (I bought a B6000), but I have been moving logs around my property for the last year with a logging arch I designed and built. I didn't want to drag them since it dulls my bandsaw blades, so I copied an idea I saw online. The picture shows a 11 foot log, which is easy to move around even though it weighs around 600#+ The way you use it is; you back it to about balance point of the log (middle) and then lift the handle up until the arch is touching the log. You put the chain around the log and then pull down on the handle which levers the log off the ground. The second chain is easy to put on as the log is just hanging there. I have been using a Honda lawn tractor to pull logs up to 16 feet around, but now have a real tractor that can get into the bush without spinning tires etc. I made the arch with a pair of old VW Jetta rear hubs, and made it just wide enough to let me back it over the sawmill ways from the end. I then reverse the loading process and it is sitting exactly where I want it. Thought this might be of some use.

 

[Rust Addict]

I think the B series are too small to log with, unless your using an arch.
If you have rock and hills where your working, I'd look into a winch.

 

[cerlawson]

I have made two such attachments. I have also added two trailer balls and a cleat for hauling with a rope, say the log is down a slope, or you want to pull over a tree leaning the wrong way. Blue only because my other tractor is that color.

 

[cerlawson]

Here is an attachment that Harbor Freight sells that I find works great as a quick hitch on the 3 point.

 

[Shortleg]

I got some paint on this past weekend and also added some boxes for chain and saw holders.

 

[bleed orange]

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I got some paint on this past weekend and also added some boxes for chain and saw holders.

built this one 2 years ago put a hydralic winch on it because of the cab dont want to smash it getting to the logs