Hi all I posted awhile back about a D1703 Kubota engine. Well I found one and its finally in the backhoe. The only way it would run is if I removed the stop solenoid. Now this solenoid is different the original one. this one has two wires and the original only had one. How do I test to see if this solenoid is good before I order a new $180 one. Thanks in advance
test a stop solenoid? (picture attached)
- Thread starter northernss454
- Start date
The 2 wire one will have a power terminal and a ground terminal so see if you can tell which might be the positive but if you can't it won't matter much try it both ways. Take a lead from the positive terminal on a battery and the same for the negative and connect to the leads on the solenoid.Hi all I posted awhile back about a D1703 Kubota engine. Well I found one and its finally in the backhoe. The only way it would run is if I removed the stop solenoid. Now this solenoid is different the original one. this one has two wires and the original only had one. How do I test to see if this solenoid is good before I order a new $180 one. Thanks in advance
The single wire one will have just a positive power lead and ground through the body .
Okay thanks I did try that and nothing happened. When nothing is hooked up should the plunger be in the out or in position? Thanks guys
It should have a spring on the plunger. The solenoid always pulls against the spring. Spring pressure in most cases shuts the fuel off while it requires electricity to run.Okay thanks I did try that and nothing happened. When nothing is hooked up should the plunger be in the out or in position? Thanks guys
I am not intimate with your machine, but here's what I '''think''' is happening:
The two wire stop solenoid has two internal coils: (1) a 'pull' coil and (2) a 'holding' coil. In theory, it should have a reduced power requirement to 'hold' than to unseat from fully closed position, but I truly don't know how the two coils interact electrically nor what controls them working together or sequentially.
Best bet is to find your wiring diagram and see how things are wired on the solenoid.
You could use a multimeter set to 'continuity' or 'ohms' to prove if each coil is independent and if each coil is 'good'. Test between each wire terminal to the metal hull and you should see continuity. If this is a two-coil solenoid you should see zero interaction between the two wires. If you have zero continuity between any wire and the hull you have a bad coil.
Alternatively, and with some slight risk of ruining the unit---not knowing that particular solenoid I have to mention some risk in testing as described could blow the solenoid---you could try grounding the solenoid's metal hull to the negative battery terminal and try each of the wiring terminals in turn. You may have to manually assist the 'pull' to move when energizing the 'hold' to hold open. Back to that wiring diagram.
You should be able to prove both coils are functional. The 'close' spring is also a consideration. The spring could be bad or both / either coil could be bad.
Try a tiny dab of non-conductive silicone lube on the solenoid shaft if it appears to be binding and work it manually to free it up.
One last consideration: make certain the solenoid mounting area on the machine is clean. Could be the solenoid case is poorly grounded--paint, grease, dirt. Use a jumper from the case to the negative battery terminal and see if anything changes when energizing.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.
The two wire stop solenoid has two internal coils: (1) a 'pull' coil and (2) a 'holding' coil. In theory, it should have a reduced power requirement to 'hold' than to unseat from fully closed position, but I truly don't know how the two coils interact electrically nor what controls them working together or sequentially.
Best bet is to find your wiring diagram and see how things are wired on the solenoid.
You could use a multimeter set to 'continuity' or 'ohms' to prove if each coil is independent and if each coil is 'good'. Test between each wire terminal to the metal hull and you should see continuity. If this is a two-coil solenoid you should see zero interaction between the two wires. If you have zero continuity between any wire and the hull you have a bad coil.
Alternatively, and with some slight risk of ruining the unit---not knowing that particular solenoid I have to mention some risk in testing as described could blow the solenoid---you could try grounding the solenoid's metal hull to the negative battery terminal and try each of the wiring terminals in turn. You may have to manually assist the 'pull' to move when energizing the 'hold' to hold open. Back to that wiring diagram.
You should be able to prove both coils are functional. The 'close' spring is also a consideration. The spring could be bad or both / either coil could be bad.
Try a tiny dab of non-conductive silicone lube on the solenoid shaft if it appears to be binding and work it manually to free it up.
One last consideration: make certain the solenoid mounting area on the machine is clean. Could be the solenoid case is poorly grounded--paint, grease, dirt. Use a jumper from the case to the negative battery terminal and see if anything changes when energizing.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.
A quick continuity test will tell you what each lead does. Any solenoid with the hold open circuit will have 3 wires.I am not intimate with your machine, but here's what I '''think''' is happening:
The two wire stop solenoid has two internal coils: (1) a 'pull' coil and (2) a 'holding' coil. In theory, it should have a reduced power requirement to 'hold' than to unseat from fully closed position, but I truly don't know how the two coils interact electrically nor what controls them working together or sequentially.
Best bet is to find your wiring diagram and see how things are wired on the solenoid.
You could use a multimeter set to 'continuity' or 'ohms' to prove if each coil is independent and if each coil is 'good'. Test between each wire terminal to the metal hull and you should see continuity. If this is a two-coil solenoid you should see zero interaction between the two wires. If you have zero continuity between any wire and the hull you have a bad coil.
Alternatively, and with some slight risk of ruining the unit---not knowing that particular solenoid I have to mention some risk in testing as described could blow the solenoid---you could try grounding the solenoid's metal hull to the negative battery terminal and try each of the wiring terminals in turn. You may have to manually assist the 'pull' to move when energizing the 'hold' to hold open. Back to that wiring diagram.
You should be able to prove both coils are functional. The 'close' spring is also a consideration. The spring could be bad or both / either coil could be bad.
Try a tiny dab of non-conductive silicone lube on the solenoid shaft if it appears to be binding and work it manually to free it up.
One last consideration: make certain the solenoid mounting area on the machine is clean. Could be the solenoid case is poorly grounded--paint, grease, dirt. Use a jumper from the case to the negative battery terminal and see if anything changes when energizing.
Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.